3D Printed Adapters

T

thehack

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 16, 2016
Messages
155
Hello,

I offer 3d Printed adapters for:
C7
and LP53.

They allow you to use any 92mm fans with them.

https://www.thingiverse.com/theHACK/designs

I also sell them at my online store:
www.j-hackcompany.com

PRkMhTC.png




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3d printed. Works great.

Heatsink is 32mm. Adapter is 2mm, using Noctua's A9x14, you will get 48mm height.

sQqDR848lXwXImROzXD-ynnrPNEhNS1_lrIboxqfh68.jpg


120mm offset version.

 
Last edited:
Artemis2307 said:
what? why?
doesn't the L9i performs better than C7
Click to expand...

The L9i does not perform better thermally. C7 4 heat pipes vs 2, 32mm cooler height vs 23mm.

It does perform better acoustically when the CPU has a lower power consumption and/or when C7 is too close to the side panel causing turbulence noise.
 
So now I am wondering about a copper C7, with AM4 mounting adapter, with a 140mm x 15mm (slim fan with a 120mm mounting pattern) Prolimatech USV14 Ultra Sleek Vortex fan...?

Assuming Corsair LPX, so no height issues, and an Aqua Computer KryoM.2 passive heatsink (also assuming front-mounted M.2 slot, come on ASRock, do your AM4 ITX MBs right); full cooling / airflow on CPU & RAM & system SSD...!

Are these available to order thru Shapeways...?

Do the various 120mm models have Shapeways Editions...?

Might they be ordered from Shapeways in the same nylon SLS material / color as the corner pieces on the Lazer3D LZ7 boutique acrylic 7 liter ITX chassis...?!?

Centered 120mm or offset 120mm...?

Sorry for so many questions...!
 
Is there a file for that LP53 bracket floating around so we can print it ourselves?
 
thehack said:
...120mm offset version.
Click to expand...

thehack

sqqdr848lxwximrozxd-ynnrpnehns1_lriboxqfh68-jpg.jpg


Might there be a version to fit the ASRock X470 ITX motherboard, offset properly to allow tall RAM (G.Skill FlareX) & coverage of the VRMs & system chip...?

I can see this on a Cu C7 heat sink, with a Noctua NF-A12x25 Sterrox PWM fan attached, in a CCD MI-6 chassis...

I could also see a version for mounting a Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM fan to a Noctua NH-L9x65 SE AM4 heat sink (same offset as requested above, to match ASRock X470 ITX motherboard)...!

13-157-837-V01.jpg
 
Last edited:
Boil said:
thehack

View attachment 86256

Might there be a version to fit the ASRock X470 ITX motherboard, offset properly to allow tall RAM (G.Skill FlareX) & coverage of the VRMs & system chip...?

I can see this on a Cu C7 heat sink, with a Noctua NF-A12x25 Sterrox PWM fan attached, in a CCD MI-6 chassis...

I could also see a version for mounting a Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM fan to a Noctua NH-L9x65 SE AM4 heat sink (same offset as requested above, to match ASRock X470 ITX motherboard)...!

View attachment 86257
Click to expand...

Hello, the center offset version should work. It is designed for this situation.


There is very little reason to use it on the Noctua as it performs better with the stock fan.
 
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I think a better option is one of those fan mounting adapters from Taobao, or whatever you call them, the wires that you use to strap fans to heatsinks, like Noctua does. They have those specifically for mounting the A9x14 to a C7. A guy did it for his A4-SFX build, go to the A4-SFX thread and go back until you find it, he posted a link. I think it's a better option, because you won't add any thickness to the stack, which will mitigate turbulence and noise.
 
I ordered some of these off 3dhubs as well. These are brilliant. Finally my computer isn't held together by blu tack anymore! :D I had mine printed in a rubber-like flexible material, as I thought that might provide some extra vibration dampening. Drawback is of course that the fit is not as tight as with a rigid adapter. Between the extra mm or two added by the adapter, and the intake shroud, the whole thing was too tall for my A4's side panel to close properly, but thanks to the flexible material I was able to easily cut the intake shroud to a smaller size. Thank you for making this, thehack!

IMG_20180724_120305.jpg
 
sdfewfe said:
I ordered some of these off 3dhubs as well. These are brilliant. Finally my computer isn't held together by blu tack anymore! :D I had mine printed in a rubber-like flexible material, as I thought that might provide some extra vibration dampening. Drawback is of course that the fit is not as tight as with a rigid adapter. Between the extra mm or two added by the adapter, and the intake shroud, the whole thing was too tall for my A4's side panel to close properly, but thanks to the flexible material I was able to easily cut the intake shroud to a smaller size. Thank you for making this, thehack!

View attachment 91344
Click to expand...

Glad it worked out for you.

I did not make the height to be used with the T318 but I will add a shorter version when I get a chance. I measured the T318 + adapter to be 30mm. You would need a 3mm shroud instead (47-48mm total height) though I would say it's not really necessary as the fan is close to the side panel anyways.
 
thehack said:
Glad it worked out for you.

I did not make the height to be used with the T318 but I will add a shorter version when I get a chance. I measured the T318 + adapter to be 30mm. You would need a 3mm shroud instead (47-48mm total height) though I would say it's not really necessary as the fan is close to the side panel anyways.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I just figured if I print it in something soft and rubber-like it'll just flex back to the right height. But since the side panels on the A4 are only screwed in on the bottom, that didn't quite work out. And yeah, not strictly necessary, with the adapter it's probably not a big difference. Without the adapter there's probably about 5-6mm to the side panel, so I used some soft foam stuck to the sides of the fan as a makeshift shroud.
 
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L9a Almost ready for release. Let me know if you'd like to use this with a 120 x 15mm or 120 x 25mm.

Spec is at 4mm height to clear RAM. Naked RAM is recommended. 6mm version to clear LPX RAM kits, i think.
 
thehack I'm interested in making an intake duct/cowling for my LP53/nf-a9x14 setup in my DR Ząber Sentry case. And maybe one for the gpu side too.

A couple of questions.

I'm curious, what software do you use for 3d design? Or do you use a 2d CAD software and then convert it to a 3d model? I learned both Autocad and Solidworks but that was about a decade ago and I haven't used them since.

Second, what 3d printer do you recommend? I was thinking about a Prusa I3 mk3. There's a lot of cheap clones out there but I'd rather just get the original prusa for hassle free performance. Any suggestions that may be a little cheaper?

I'm not sure if I want to go all in and do it myself which would require getting familiar with software and getting a 3d printer. It's a lot for just a handful of projects. Also being in grad school, I don't have a ton of time. Maybe I'm better off supplying a design to someone to print it for me. Is that something you'd be interested and willing to do? Would you be able and willing to make a model from a fully dimensioned draft?
 
Ej24 said:
thehack I'm interested in making an intake duct/cowling for my LP53/nf-a9x14 setup in my DR Ząber Sentry case. And maybe one for the gpu side too.

A couple of questions.

I'm curious, what software do you use for 3d design? Or do you use a 2d CAD software and then convert it to a 3d model? I learned both Autocad and Solidworks but that was about a decade ago and I haven't used them since.

Second, what 3d printer do you recommend? I was thinking about a Prusa I3 mk3. There's a lot of cheap clones out there but I'd rather just get the original prusa for hassle free performance. Any suggestions that may be a little cheaper?

I'm not sure if I want to go all in and do it myself which would require getting familiar with software and getting a 3d printer. It's a lot for just a handful of projects. Also being in grad school, I don't have a ton of time. Maybe I'm better off supplying a design to someone to print it for me. Is that something you'd be interested and willing to do? Would you be able and willing to make a model from a fully dimensioned draft?
Click to expand...

1. I use onshape. Pretty similar to solid works.

2. I like the Mk3. It has lots of user friendly features. If you value your time then you should just buy the Mk3. It is an excellent all around value.

3. I wouldn't buy one unless you have a need or time to use it. There's a lot of maintenance and general tweaking you have to do to keep it running. I recommend a local 3d print service or hackerspace for one off projects.

4. I have already designed a simple duct for cpu coolers. I just need the exact height that would work with the Sentry.

5. For gpu, I can make one but I require mounting points and exact dimensions, down to 0.3mm accuracy.
 
To add to that, Fusion 360 is also great, and surprisingly easy to use. I managed to get a simple mount adapter designed in there in an hour or so, never having touched the program before. Plus, free for students, since you're in grad school.
 
sdfewfe said:
To add to that, Fusion 360 is also great, and surprisingly easy to use. I managed to get a simple mount adapter designed in there in an hour or so, never having touched the program before. Plus, free for students, since you're in grad school.
Click to expand...

Free for anybody as long as the don't make more than a certain amount.

I've tried and I did not like it. If you make one mistake it doesn't allow you to fix dependency.

https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/idea...ng-broken-projections-misplaced/idi-p/6518694

It is unusable for me. I have to hunt down too many stupid little things and the interface just says "it broke."
 
thehack said:
Free for anybody as long as the don't make more than a certain amount.

I've tried and I did not like it. If you make one mistake it doesn't allow you to fix dependency.

https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/idea...ng-broken-projections-misplaced/idi-p/6518694

It is unusable for me. I have to hunt down too many stupid little things and the interface just says "it broke."
Click to expand...

Ah, okay. I've only been playing around with it for a few hours, and for simple things it seemed very intuitive. But that's good to know for anything more complex I might want to work on.
 
sdfewfe said:
Ah, okay. I've only been playing around with it for a few hours, and for simple things it seemed very intuitive. But that's good to know for anything more complex I might want to work on.
Click to expand...

Some people don't have a problem with it. It may be just how so people design things. I certainly do and it's super bothersom.
 
Hello Everyone, I am going to have the Noctua to the LP53 adapter printed.

Affordable options from 3DHubs are :
- PLA
- ABS
- Resin (SLA)
- Nylon (also possible to have it mixed with carbon, mineral or aluminium)
- PETG
- TPU
- ASA
- PEI


At first sight, I'd go with ABS or nylon. Do you think that an additive would make the adapter stand the high temperatures better?

What do you think?
 
I don't think you'll need high temperature resistance. The heatsink gets warm but nowhere near as warm as the cpu. Especially near the top of the fins where the fan mounting points are, it'll be way cooler. Just go with something durable and strong because it's a pretty thin part.
 
Ej24 said:
I don't think you'll need high temperature resistance. The heatsink gets warm but nowhere near as warm as the cpu. Especially near the top of the fins where the fan mounting points are, it'll be way cooler. Just go with something durable and strong because it's a pretty thin part.
Click to expand...

I have finally ordered an ABS print from Sculpteo.
 
Hello everyone,

I am finally going to start the assembly of my computer. So I am going to set a Noctua A9x14 fan on my Cooltek LP53 CPU cooler using a printed adapter. I am not sure how to tie everything together. I have already removed the LP53 stock cooler.

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Now, how do I remove the black rubber ties from the cooler? And should I reuse them to tie the printed adapter to the cooler?

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And do I insert the white tabs in the holes freed by the black ties in the cooler? Is that all what's required to tie the adapter to the cooler?

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Thank you for helping.
 
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OK, I got it. The black rubber ties can slide to the side of the cooler. Then indeed one has to insert the adapter's tabs in the holes.
 
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