Watercooling Component Guide for a 4P

R-Type

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Introduction
For the last couple months on IRC I've been asked for 4P loop recommendations on nearly a weekly basis and I'm sure interest will only increase with the release of the TearTurbo BIOS mod. Below are my recommendations and links to the components one would need to setup a 4P watercooling loop, keep in mind I haven't actually put one of these together on a 4P but am confident this setup will work.

Also, if someone can provide measurements for the mounting pattern of the southbridge heatsink on your 4P we should be able to find a waterblock for that as well.

Retailers
I use these shops pretty exclusively due to their price, availability, and customer service.

http://www.jab-tech.com
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com
http://www.aquatuning.us/index.php

Note that Jab-tech typically has a 5% off coupon active and Aquatuning 2 day shipping (from Germany) drops to $6 once your order goes over $75

The Loop
PdgrE.png


Components
Coolant
Distilled Water- Seriously. Buy it by the gallon at your local grocery store, you don't need the fancy coolants and the dye that is typically in them will gunk up your parts. If you want color, buy colored tubing.
Silver Kill Coil - Wrap this strip around a pen and toss it in your reservoir (the strip, not the pen), the small amount of silver ions that will leech into the water are highly toxic to Algae and will prevent life from growing in your loop.

Pump
Swiftech MCP-655 - This is a rebadged Lang D5 and one of the best pumps out there, this has more than enough power for the loop we are building.

Reservoir
There are lots of options here and only really differentiate with whether you want the reservoir separate or mounted in 5.25'' bays.
Separate - Just one option, they're all pretty much the same. You typically want the reservoir up near the top of your loop.
5.25'' bay - The pump is mounted inside of here and the whole thing then installed in the 5.25'' bay.

CPU Blocks
Aquacomputer Kryos - One of the best companies in the watercooling world makes a block specifically for G34, performance is very good and outperforms the EK Supreme HF.
Koolance CPU-370SA - $10 more than the Kryos, this block delivers similar thermal performance while maintaining a higher flow rate. Note that you need to purchase separate mounting screws. Probably the best option if you can swing the cash.
DangerDen Maze 4 - An alternative block that will save you about $20 per cpu. The design is quite old and cooling performance will be significantly less than the Aquacomputer or Koolance options, however at least one folder is using these successfully on his 4P.

Radiators
XSPC RX360 - If you are using a case, you will need to ensure your radiator selection will fit. To get your chips as cool as possible and allow better stock voltage overclocks, I recommend 6x120 worth of radspace (two of these)
XSPC EX360 - If you are putting this in a case and need a thinner radiator, these will perform close to the level of the RX but won't scale with slower fans as well.
Phobya NOVA 1080 - If you are doing a caseless system, this could be a cheaper option to get a ton of rad space. I've not used this before but the pricing and reviews are certainly compelling, I would probably still get two of them because I'm insane. :p Also, Phobya makes a freestanding mount for this that will hold the radiator, your pump and reservoir for you naked folders.
MO-RA3 - A better performing (and more expensive) alternative to the Phobya above. I would suggest buying two phobya's versus one of these, but if you want absolutely the lowest temps a couple of these would do the trick.

Tubing
Primochill PrimoFlex - I run 7/16'' ID tubing and stretch it over the 1/2'' barbs, this gives you an extremely tight fit so you don't even need clamps. Primochill is the easiest tubing to bend without kinking and is available in many colors. I would expect you to want somewhere between 10-15' of tubing for one of these loops.
Anti-Kink Coil - This prevents the tubing from kinking while making tight bends, it also looks pretty slick. :)

Fittings
1/2'' Barbs - These are how your hose connects to every element in the loop, you will need 2 for each radiator and cpu block and 3 for the reservoir (to provide connection to the fill port.
T-Line - Allows you to add a drainage tail to the lowest point of the loop. This will make your life much much easier if you need to change the loop up.
Fillport - You need one of these for the reservoir inlet and one for your drainage tail.

Fans
Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 - These are the best 25mm thick radiator fan you can get and the noise signature on them is very pleasant, you will barely know they are running.
YateLoon 38mm - These are slower 1350rpm, 38mm thick Yates. They won't last 10 years like the GentleTyphoons will but if you are on a budget these are about half the price while maintaining very good static pressure.


Setup
I can add some more detail here later as needed, however setup will be the same as any other watercooling loop. Be sure to get your fittings installed tightly and flush your radiators thoroughly before assembly and you should be fine. You will want to prime the loop and let the pump run by itself (system is off) for 24 hours to leak test and ensure any air pockets have worked themselves out before firing the system up.

Post any questions you may have and I'll keep this post updated with the answers.
 
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R-Type

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - October 2011
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How are the Aquantuning blocks compared to the Danger Den ones? DD Link

Aquacomputer is one of the best respected manufacturers of watercooling gear and while DangerDen isn't an awful company I simply don't feel they compare.

Here is a review of the Aquacomputer block's performance, it doesn't directly compare with the danger den but you should be able to find a review with the DD block compared to some of the other contenders. What I have seen from reviews on the MAZE 4 indicates it is a VERY old design (2003!!) and wasn't that noteworthy then.
http://skinneelabs.com/ac-kryos-hf/6/
 
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orion

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These are the temps my 4p is getting with the MAZE 4’s. Ambient room temp is 19˚C. 80% through a p6904

Temperature table:
Node 0 C0:46 C1:46 C2:46 C3:46 C4:46 C5:46
Node 1 C0:46 C1:46 C2:46 C3:46 C4:46 C5:46
Node 2 C0:45 C1:45 C2:45 C3:45 C4:45 C5:45
Node 3 C0:45 C1:45 C2:45 C3:45 C4:45 C5:45
Node 4 C0:45 C1:45 C2:45 C3:45 C4:45 C5:45
Node 5 C0:44 C1:44 C2:44 C3:44 C4:44 C5:44
Node 6 C0:44 C1:44 C2:44 C3:44 C4:44 C5:44
Node 7 C0:44 C1:44 C2:44 C3:44 C4:44 C5:44

I don’t think that’s bad for 9 tear old technology. Others can decide for themselves.
 
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R-Type

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - October 2011
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These are the temps my 4p is getting with the MAZE 4’s. Ambient room temp is 19˚C. 80% through a p6904

Temperature table:
Node 0 C0:46 C1:46 C2:46 C3:46 C4:46 C5:46
Node 1 C0:46 C1:46 C2:46 C3:46 C4:46 C5:46
Node 2 C0:45 C1:45 C2:45 C3:45 C4:45 C5:45
Node 3 C0:45 C1:45 C2:45 C3:45 C4:45 C5:45
Node 4 C0:45 C1:45 C2:45 C3:45 C4:45 C5:45
Node 5 C0:44 C1:44 C2:44 C3:44 C4:44 C5:44
Node 6 C0:44 C1:44 C2:44 C3:44 C4:44 C5:44
Node 7 C0:44 C1:44 C2:44 C3:44 C4:44 C5:44

I don’t think that’s bad for 9 tear old technology. Others can decide for themselves.

Nice temps, I have added the block as an option to the main post. How do the rest of the recommendations compare with what you chose for your own loop?
 

orion

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I think everything looks good and you've done a very nice job of piecing this all together for us R-Type.
grinning-smiley-003.gif
 

Vaulter98c

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Typical price on a system like this?

I'm on my phone
 

R-Type

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - October 2011
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I think everything looks good and you've done a very nice job of piecing this all together for us R-Type.
grinning-smiley-003.gif
Good to hear, thanks!

Typical price on a system like this?

I'm on my phone

If you went with the dangerden blocks, the Phobya 1080, and the yateloon fans you would be right around $500 before shipping. The other options obviously take it up from there. If I was doing this for a nekkid rig myself I would sub the Aquacomputer blocks, and add the Phobya stand for a total of about 650.

Its definitely more expensive than air cooling with 212's but if you consider 4 noctuas would set you back $300 its not atrocious. This will also give you much lower temperatures than air cooling and hopefully provide some added headroom for stock voltage overclocks. The silence factor is also a big draw. ;)

Watercooling is definitely not the budget approach to cooling, but then again if you cared about budget you wouldn't own a 4P. ;)
 

R-Type

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - October 2011
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Excellent guide, R-Type. For CPU block Koolance CPU-370 is also an option.

Thanks, added to the guide. This is actually covered in the same skineelabs review I linked for the Aquacomputer and looks like it gets close on thermal performance while being less restrictive to flow. It looks like the Koolance may actually be the best bet out of the three.

http://skinneelabs.com/ac-kryos-hf/5/
 

WOLF_TEAM_LEADER

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Nice guide so I might as well bump it with my question.
You said to use distilled water however I could only pick-up de-mineralized water, is that still OK?
There are a few alternate opinions on the web.
Thanks.
 

d00dz

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Nice guide so I might as well bump it with my question.
You said to use distilled water however I could only pick-up de-mineralized water, is that still OK?
There are a few alternate opinions on the web.
Thanks.

They are the same thing. Pretty much.
 

WOLF_TEAM_LEADER

Weaksauce
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IRC concluded I am safe to go with demineralized water with a silver coil and a flushed radiator.
I'll have the loop built tonight (hopefully) and will post some good pic's when it's done :)
I am using an actual PC case instead of grizzly bear's carcass or a bloodied sheet of metal from a plane crash so hopefully it passes the [H]ard regulations :eek:
Thx.
 

Core32

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Sorry. Realized the thread was about 4P, not just G34 style 4P...:eek:

Also, It would appear the DD MAZE4 blocks for G34 are out of stock most everywhere.
I suppose that's due to the age of the product?

 

402blownstroker

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Also, It would appear the DD MAZE4 blocks for G34 are out of stock most everywhere.
I suppose that's due to the age of the product?

Before discovering how well Cooler Master 212+ work, I was looking into watercooling my 4P. With the DD waterblocks according to DD, you can also order just the G34 tops and put them onto older Maze4 bases. I have 4 604/771 Maze4 blocks laying arounbd and to convert them would be about $40.
 

spitter

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What do you think guys???

I think the DD mpc is covering enough of the heat spreader to not make any difference in temps, CPU Opteron 6128.
CIMG0223-1.jpg

CIMG0222.jpg

CIMG0221.jpg

CIMG0218.jpg

CIMG0223.jpg
 

musky

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What do you think guys???

I think the DD mpc is covering enough of the heat spreader to not make any difference in temps, CPU Opteron 6128.
[snip]

That should be fine. The bigger question to me is how does it look rotated 45 degrees so that two of the "ears" are pointing directly out the narrow ends of the CPU? If this is a block designed for socket 1366, the diagonal measurement for two opposite holes should be right at 4 1/8", which is perfect for a G34 socket. That would be an easy mod if it works.
 

spitter

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Thanks musky, I will get the board now, I bought some scrap grey acrylic for $3 and plan to make new tops, The 45 degree shift would work, but that would take some copper off the heat spreader to. Also the spacing of the g34 is closer to the 775 mount that the 1366. I get some pictures up of the 45 shift in a little while.
 

orion

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What do you think guys???

I think the DD mpc is covering enough of the heat spreader to not make any difference in temps, CPU Opteron 6128.

You can always contact DD and see if they have or can make some tops for your MPC's if your home made ones don't pan out.

You could also make a modified musky mount to get the original ones to work.
 

Biffa

Limp Gawd
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Great guide, I'd only like to add that the DDC 18w pumps are also a good, especially as the loop is reasonably restrictive with 4 blocks and two rads. Similar flow to the D5 but higher pressure.
 

Core32

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Great guide, I'd only like to add that the DDC 18w pumps are also a good, especially as the loop is reasonably restrictive with 4 blocks and two rads. Similar flow to the D5 but higher pressure.

Is there a specific model # for the 18W pump?
Thanks.
 

Spotswood

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This thread has kick-started my design juices, with the end result being a heavy-duty, flexible radiator stand made from t-slot extrusion:

T-SlotRadStandwWCbits.jpg


:D
 

Untitledone

[H]ard|DCer of the Month - April 2012
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This thread has kick-started my design juices, with the end result being a heavy-duty, flexible radiator stand made from t-slot extrusion:

:D

That is what we do around here. We get people wet about [H]ardware. Some sexy cases there!
 

pthegr8

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Apr 23, 2012
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Hi all, I'm building a 4p system, and appreciate the sharing of your knowledge. I have a little experience in putting systems together, however this will be my 1st multi-cpu, watercooled system. And I can use a little help.
so far i have the following:
SupermicroH8QGi-F (on order ETA 2weeks)
Opteron 6282SE (starting with 2, most likely upgrade to 4, in a month or 2 ; budget restarint, stuff ain't cheap)
Corsair AX1200 PSU
Xigmatek Elysium case
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 7-8-8-24 1.5V 4 * 4*4Gb (64Gb total)
2 * Nvidia Quadro NVS450 ( for 8 monitors)

This system will be for my business (daytrading, stock market analysis), However i recently discovered the F@H project, and I will participate, love this idea, and have my reasons to give back.

Eventhough the 6200 series can't be OC'd, I opted to go the watercooling route, don't mind to spend a little more in order to avoid dust build-up, keep noise to a minimum, and keep the cpu's as cool as possible. The 6282's are the most power hungry of the bunch, and I assume therefore they generate more heat then the lower freq. cpu's.

I want to run an idea by you all, to reduce the radiator to just one instead of two. I'd like to avoid the 2nd vertical mounted rad, which would block the access to the drive mounts.

what if I use a single high end 140mm in the top of the case and maybe use splitters? I have no idea if this exists, or is even possible.. maybe a rad like this ? http://jab-tech.com/HW-Labs-Black-Ice-GT-Xtreme-Quad-140mm-Radiator-pr-4474.html

xoqwy0.jpg


any advice appreciated.
thx,
P.
 

Core32

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I'm sure there are lot's of issues with this method based on the final amount of heat you will encounter.
But the first issue I see is one of balance.
Without some type of adjustment of flow, the path of least resistance after the "splitter" will get more flow.
If you can get the two paths closely matched this won't matter.
If not, and it may be hard to quantify, one pair will run hotter than the other.
Not a WC expert but that problem looks obvious to me.
Tried enough experiments with my SW aquarium to know this :)
 

orion

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I would forgo the splitters and add a second radiator, setting your loop the way R-Type shows.

On my first 4p G34 board I used a couple of splitters with a heat sensor in them. One of the splitters developed a leak over CPU0 memory bank taking out 4 memory slots and bricking the board.

It looked neat but was costly.
 

sbinh

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Don't know if I use socket 1366 block along with Musky's method
Code:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1662099&highlight=212
:D
 

Biffa

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No point using splitters, it wont make any difference to the temps and just halve the flow.
 

pthegr8

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Having thought this over a bit, and measuring my case, I think I'll go for two 280mm rads. One to be mounted on top, and the other vertically inside the 5.25 drive bays, including the 14cm fans. Some of them will fit I believe, like:
XSPC EX280
Phobia G-chamber 280
EK coolstream XTC280
Coolgate 280

thx for the replies.
 

Amaruk

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Messages
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Don't know if I use socket 1366 block along with Musky's method
Code:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1662099&highlight=212
:D

From earlier in thread...

If this is a block designed for socket 1366, the diagonal measurement for two opposite holes should be right at 4 1/8", which is perfect for a G34 socket. That would be an easy mod if it works.

Looks like only issue will be the two unused 1366 mount points that will be sticking out either side.
 

St Veronus

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Thanks for the guide R-Type!

As both a 4P and watercooling n00b, I am looking at the Koolance ERM-3K3UC to go along with a SuperMicro AS-2042G-6RF running 4x 6180SE.

Would this be a good solution to keeping things cool? Would you just go from CPU4>CPU1 and return to ERM or would you route differently as there is only 1 intake/output on the ERM?

I know I could probably get better components/performance by piecing everything together, but I don't have the experience with water. I am also going to be putting these in a rack, so finding a place for components put together won't be as practical as a PC case mod.
 

Nathan_P

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It is advisable to put heatsinks on your VRM's and make sure that your chipset heatsinks have plenty of airflow.
 
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