The highly rated HP Pavilion Slimline PC thread

yousuckstoo

Weaksauce
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
70
I installed again the AMD 92mm fan, and remove the delta fan because the PSU feels cold even with maximum energy load
All the fresh air coming from the 92mm enter by the grill of the PSU and keep the components cold.
If you are tired of the noise from the Flex ATX PSU, you can use a Noctua A4X20mm and plug it on the Motherboard using the low noise adapter, add a 92mm just below the DVD Caddy (the fan need to be air presure optimized) and the dBa on idle are virtually silent.
Im using a IXtrema 40mm fan to push hot air from the PSU , this fan really sucks at max rpm (the brand claims max dbA are 14db, but they lie, the max dba with a cellphone app shows around 45dba @ 12 volts, too noisy)
With 7 volts adapter i got 15dba, barely spins and dont move a lot of air, but iits ok to keep low temps from the PSU.
In summary, now the noisy part its the GPU when i run games, but its ok, soon im gonna replace it.
Its possible build a decent gaming machine on this case and keep it silent with decent temps.
I Share a pic of my desktop, i dont like RGB but found a cheap mechanical keyboard and i bought it
(Every piece of my PC dont include lights ,except the Jostick RF receiver)
 

Attachments

  • !cid_d6d8dce6-b85b-4ed2-82c3-1ff0ac6d6a9d.jpg
    !cid_d6d8dce6-b85b-4ed2-82c3-1ff0ac6d6a9d.jpg
    328.2 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

yousuckstoo

Weaksauce
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
70
Ok i think finally found the best noise/performance/airflow setup for this case
To someone who try to reuse this little box on the future, without spending a lot of money trying to reach to the same goal:
If you find a way to mod the HP S3000 stock cooler to fit on Intel 1200/AM4 socket, with low TDP processor (45 watts, 65 watts without turbo boost)
Its the ideal cooler because the heat goes away from the back of the case horizontally
The stock AM4 /1200 cooler can handle the processor without problems
but fries the PSU

Captura.JPG
Second thoughs

356086_cid__EA10413638A00F41AEDAC076699242B6sct-15-20-2387-20-msonline-outlook-b6334.jpgs:
I recommend put 2 fans to the PSU, 1 bringing cold air and other push it out hot air
Noctua 40X20mm to push hot air on 7 -9 volts are dead silent with good performance
Superred 50x25mm (the stock fan of my PSU) moves a lot of air with only 5 Volts.
Third : You can fit 2 x 60 mm fan on the bottom on the bays area, i set it pushing cold air
I took the recommendation to replace the 92mm to 2 x 60 mm fans
Set it to 2000rpm runs quiet and adds airflow to the bottom of the case
If you put a third party coolers to the processor, the hot air goes to the sides
If you swap the fan direction to exhaust, the CPU temps goes 5-7°C worse but the drives runs cooler (only 2 o 3 degrees)
The GPU temps are better too, but not by much (2 or 3 degrees)
Arctic fan its the best noise to performance fan, works great on both positions (intake,exhaust)
Noisebolcker Eloop are quieter, but only on intake mode.
Noctua P12 silent on intake, noisy on exhaust mode

More improvements (for modders):
Maybe in the future i try to do some improvements
The spot in the left picture feels warm playing games, making some holes to push the air to that area maybe reduces temps
On the right, i dont know why HP only make holes for the drive ara on the right side, with a line of holes on the bottom i think the GPU can handle better temps

Temps:
Winter
CPU 36 Idle- Full Load 56°C
GPU 37° Idle Full Load 77°C
SSD 35° Idle Full Load 55°C
Spring:
CPU Idle 38 Full Load 59°C
GPU Idle 39° Full Load 80°C (No thermal throttling)
SSD Idle 38° Full Load 57°C

My modded Adata SU650 died, replaced with a Crucial BX500 480GB (no modded)
NVMe drives without aluminum heatsink fits on the back of the motherboard
Just add a 2mm thermalpad to use the case as a heatsink





1303454.jpg
 

yousuckstoo

Weaksauce
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
70
More pictures of the final modifications
Added 2 60mm Noctua PWM fans
Prevous fans started showing bad bearings noises and i replace both
Set at 1800 rpm for inaudible work
At idle the PC its silent, the GPU its the noisest part, its ok
GX 750ti now have 4+ years and the bearings start showing his age
If you mod the PSU its better put the fan pushing cold air for silent operation and beter temps
I decided keep both fans ,Superrred puling cold air (pushing hot air make more noise)
SilentX 40mm exhaust
I didnt suffer a single shutdown for high temps from tthe PSU running games.
Hope this helps for future builds, i cant remeber the amount of money spended on this project.

!cid_10c51e80-3d41-4b1b-9694-1a02166de863.jpg
!cid_14ce7040-a967-4391-b6c4-68063f010fe1.jpg

!cid_eb010070-95cd-4c70-9bdd-abfd7d1e59b5.jpg
 
Last edited:

yousuckstoo

Weaksauce
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
70
I rebuild my Slimline because the motherboard and PSU died on a storm with multiple shutdowns.
This time picked a Intel CPU because Ryzen processors and Motherboards are expensive
My new specs:
Core i5 11400F with 45 watts TDP Limit (runs similar to 10400F, but 11gen has PCIE 4.0 lanes,a important feature looking to future upgrades)
Biostar Z490GTN ITX 1200
16GB RAM 3200Mhz
Nvidia GT 1030
Shuttle PC60 300 watts
256 SATA SSD/ 640GB HDD
Thermalright AXP100 Full Copper
I hope RTX A2000 drops price because 6GB cards probably this year no longer works for mining.
Performance looks similar to RTX 3050 but A2000 only draws power from PCI Express slot.
Im gonna buy a GTX 750/1050Ti cooler to replace the stock cooler, because blower GPU in my experience, even in idle makes a lot of noise.
My config stays silent on idle and light gaming, the noise comes from the GPU
Shuttle PSU are the best option for silent operation, but need to be new,
because i bought on the past some refurbished PSU and the sellers replace the Superred fans (silent and good performance) with other brands which are terrible mantaining heat and noise levels.
thumbnail_IMG_0657.jpg
 

yousuckstoo

Weaksauce
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
70
A look to the inside
If you buy the AXP 100 look carefully the Motherboard you want to use it
In my case the Z490GTN dont allow to mount it on every position
The fix to fit the heatsink was bend the cooler to have clearance (VRM and RAM block the cooler)
Or buy a ram without heatink, its the only way to mount the cooler without modifications
Undervolt the GPU its a must thing to do.
With -150Mv vs stock setting, i can archieve 1650 Mhz Core Clock, Stock VRAM Speed with max temp 69c with quiet fan profile
CPU 45 watts Power Limit need to be set to get decent temps (59°C max)
Even with 65 watts stock TDP, the cooler heat up to +75°C and the PSU start overheating and make a lot of noise
Games dont use 100% of the CPU, the 11400f still boost to 4.2GHz most of the time, or stays 3.8GHz stable on games with more than 60% CPU usage
With GT 1030 its enough, you can try even lower TDP if you get a stock cooler
Even the eventually RTX A2000 will be fine with underclocked 11400f


111.jpg
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29
Folks, I need some help with my Slimline s5150t. It is not powering on. P/S green LED is on. P/S Fan is not spinning.

I unplugged the 24 pin power and tried it with a tester. P/S Fan come on. But -5V is not lit.

I tried in another P/S, everything works. So it seems like a faulty P/S. However, I am having trouble removing the SATA power from the hard drive. In order to reach the cable, I need to remove the case fan next to the optical drive. There is 1 silver screw on the case fan but removing the screw doesn't seem to loosen the fan. I watched some disassembly video but couldn't pick up the clue. I tried pushing the fan side way, pulling it up, etc. It just won't budge. What am I missing?
 

SamirD

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
5,420
Folks, I need some help with my Slimline s5150t. It is not powering on. P/S green LED is on. P/S Fan is not spinning.

I unplugged the 24 pin power and tried it with a tester. P/S Fan come on. But -5V is not lit.

I tried in another P/S, everything works. So it seems like a faulty P/S. However, I am having trouble removing the SATA power from the hard drive. In order to reach the cable, I need to remove the case fan next to the optical drive. There is 1 silver screw on the case fan but removing the screw doesn't seem to loosen the fan. I watched some disassembly video but couldn't pick up the clue. I tried pushing the fan side way, pulling it up, etc. It just won't budge. What am I missing?
Try downloading the manual here. I grabbed a copy of it myself since I don't think I have the original documentation to my HP anymore:
https://www.manualslib.com/download/359314/Hp-Pavilion-Slimline-S5220f.html
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29

SamirD

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
5,420
Thank you! I was looking for the support information and found that HP that taken it offline. The manual helped me took the fan apart! I missed the tab that held the fan in place.
Sweet! Yeah, I hate that HP has started to do that. It's retarded when companies do this as the storage space and pages don't cost them a thing and just allow shady places to start packing malware in everything...
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29
Originally, I wanted to keep the Slimline because it fits a standard m-ATX motherboard (I think) and comes with a P/S that uses standard 24pin power and comes with 4-pin CPU power. But now my P/S is dead. I wonder if I should just write it off? Core2Duo is really old. If you have seen my earlier posts, I have spent a lot of effort to upgrade the CPU to Quad Core and failed. I like the built-in SD card reader and the overall case. Aftermarket P/S is about $40 on eBay. It is upgraded with SSD and 12GB of RAM (the only thing I miss).

I could replace it with a Lenovo M93p tiny. Should I try to save my Slimline?
 

SamirD

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
5,420
Originally, I wanted to keep the Slimline because it fits a standard m-ATX motherboard (I think) and comes with a P/S that uses standard 24pin power and comes with 4-pin CPU power. But now my P/S is dead. I wonder if I should just write it off? Core2Duo is really old. If you have seen my earlier posts, I have spent a lot of effort to upgrade the CPU to Quad Core and failed. I like the built-in SD card reader and the overall case. Aftermarket P/S is about $40 on eBay. It is upgraded with SSD and 12GB of RAM (the only thing I miss).

I could replace it with a Lenovo M93p tiny. Should I try to save my Slimline?
I just did some reading and found your posts about the cpu upgrade. Too bad HP pulled down the data on the motherboard, etc as that's what would help determine what happened. More than likely there was more than one motherboard or your bios version was too old for the newer cpu. Or the cpus were fakes as there's a lot of MF selling fakes in the lga775 series--so much so that it's hard to find a genuine one. Anything new is definitely a fake and anything from overseas or a big port city will generally be a fake too.

Anyways, the e5300 was an 800Mhz fsb processor and my guess is that the 1333Mhz fsb of the q9550 just isn't supported either because of the bios or actual hardware since it also used a different core architecture family.

But you still have a nice wallop of an upgrade possible if you replace the power supply with something good (be careful for more fakes, etc because even more cheaters in things like power supplies)--the e5800:
https://www.cpu-world.com/Compare_C...2M,Intel_AT80571PG0882ML,Intel_EU80569PJ073N/
https://www.m.cpubenchmark.net/comp...d-Q9550-vs-Intel-i3-530/1102vs1098vs1049vs737

The e5800 single thread performance is quite amazing for a dual core, actually being faster than the q9550 and even the entry level next generation i3, the i3-530. The only dual core lga775 that I've found faster is the e8600, but then again that brings us back to the fsb and core architecture issue as the e8600 is 1333. But the e8600 is only a hair faster and my e8600s feel quite fast in a single task. So you do have a cheap upgrade path.

Back to the question at hand--is it worth it to keep it running? Hmm...only you can determine that since swapping a power supply (or even running one externally) gets you up and running exactly how you're used to. And with a <$10 (legit) cpu upgrade that would give you a noticeable boost, it definitely might be worth it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194798465838?hash=item2d5ae4b32e:g:GEsAAOSwq05h~qzd
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165456370012?hash=item2685f7d95c:g:A3YAAOSwLCZiaqx8&LH_ItemCondition=1500

The alternative is to upgrade the mb, etc to something more modern, but it's more work that's for sure. Another option would be to use the m93p tiny since it is much faster than even the e5800 if it has the i5-4570T:
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compar...tium-E5800-vs-Intel-i5-4570T/1098vs1102vs2041

One thing you could do that would give you the best of both worlds is to turn on the s5150t when you want to use it and just rdp into it from the m93p. This is how I use a lot of my older systems. Then you basically can leave it 'headless' and boot it up and log in any time you need it and then turn it off otherwise--or leave it on if you want (that's what I do with mine).
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29
Yeah, I wish I could repeat there success. My s5150 M/B just absolutely won't boot with any quad core processors (tried 3) I threw at it. They are all genuine because I have another LGA775 desktop that I can test on. I think my M/B is an older revision and it needs a BIOS upgrade but there is none. I am not going to waste any more money on upgrading the CPU.

The issue with keeping it around is that the stand-in P/S I have is not the same size and it won't fit in the case. It is just really ugly leaving the P/S hanging outside. If I buy a replacement P/S (likely shitty), I might as well keep using it. Also RDP requires Win10 Pro and I only have Win 10 installed. But I could use other stuffs like VNC, etc. Or hack it to enable RDP server.

I guess I am leaning toward giving up on the slimline. I already got the m93p tiny. Just need to add throw in an SSD and reinstall. The only thing I miss on the slimline is 12GB of RAM and it was my main rig and most of my stuffs are on it.

BTW, any ideas how to remove the P/S? Is it just the 3 screws outside or are there some tricks to it?
 

SamirD

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
5,420
That's a shame that it hasn't worked with any quads which is a real puzzle, but like I sad, the e5800 will feel faster anyways.

Yeah, it's always been tough to find a quality power supply in that size. Luckily, servers also use them, so you might be able to get a supermicro power supply that will fit, and that will be quality.

A power supply wouldn't be much effort to just get back to what you were used to compared to the other avenues so it's also a matter of how much time you want to invest. I believe removal would be just the 3 screws, but check the hardware pdf for the exact details since I've never removed mine from my hp, just my gateway (which was 3 screws).

I did some searches on the supermicro and this one looks like a winner, and an upgrade to boot if it physically fits in the case:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325041488111?hash=item4badfb80ef:g:AUkAAOSwZOtiA~nn&autorefresh=true

Some other candidates:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3242525046...b7ef49243:g:ejcAAOSw7zFfLCNp&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284346954931?hash=item42346634b3:g:LzgAAOSwhaFg1fkg&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2848460676...252260fa0:g:0CUAAOSwIDxin5Kt&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1253315163...|clp:2047675&epid=1601628969&autorefresh=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1854327330...D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675&epid=1723809536
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29
Thanks for taking the time for look up P/S for me. I took a look at the listing. It seems their connectors are more limited. Some has not SATA power and even the more expensive one seems to have just 1. I don't have spare adapters around.

I guess another thing I missed with my slimline is having multiple drives. I keep an HDD for storage. Once I switched to tiny PC, I will have to go with external drives for my data, which could be a pain.
 

SamirD

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
5,420
Thanks for taking the time for look up P/S for me. I took a look at the listing. It seems their connectors are more limited. Some has not SATA power and even the more expensive one seems to have just 1. I don't have spare adapters around.

I guess another thing I missed with my slimline is having multiple drives. I keep an HDD for storage. Once I switched to tiny PC, I will have to go with external drives for my data, which could be a pain.
I forgot to mention that some of those will need splitters/adapters for drive power, etc. But that's a minor tradeoff for a reliable power supply that won't kill your components with a premature failure. Most local computer stores now carry splitters/adapters in stock so you don't have to rely on the fake crap peddled online. And that's nice because a local company won't sell crap or they'll have a livid customer standing in front of them.

You have a very good point about the internal drive. Having dealt with external drives, internal ones are always better and faster. Even with external esata there are issues at times. Nothing like a nice slimline with all the drives you need right there. (y)
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29
I initally thought my P/S is bad. But if I hook it up to a tester, it will power up and only the -5V is off. I googled and found out -5V is not needed. But plugging it back in, PC won't power on. I am confused.
 

SamirD

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
5,420
I initally thought my P/S is bad. But if I hook it up to a tester, it will power up and only the -5V is off. I googled and found out -5V is not needed. But plugging it back in, PC won't power on. I am confused.
It's probably still bad. I wouldn't trust what google says unless it's the motherboard technical docs.
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29
I ended up taking out the old PSU and hacked my other PSU inside. Have to gave up my expansion slots but that's okay. It will do for now. Its days are numbered.

1658602492182.png
 

SamirD

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
5,420
I think that's the best solution atm. What 8GB memory module did you found that worked with the core duo? I'd be interested in that since my gateway actually has 4x memory slots.
 

AirCool2

n00b
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
29
I am using 4GBx2 DDR3 memory. It was too long ago but I think most DDR3 for desktop should work. Not sure about 8GB stick though.
 
Top