RGB 5050 LED Strips for lighting Home Theater speakers to look like AMC Prime.

[Archaea]

I am going to model this backlit speaker layout in my home theater:

I'm soliciting ideas on how best to get this done. Making sure I'm not missing any cool features or ways to make this better or easier.

I bought 13 JBL CBT 70j-1 speakers (the same speakers pictured above) for a 9.1.4 Dolby Atmos setup.

I did a proof of concept last night that turned out really good, IMO.

To repeat this 13 times I need 22" of LED light per speaker. That is 22" x 13 = 286"

286" / 12 = 24' of LED lighting.


I'm considering using what I just tried which is RGB 5050 (300). Most of the controllers are only rated for 5M or 16', so I'll have to look specifically for a controller that's rated for 10M or 32'. I'd prefer using a controller that has music sync, selectable colors, and at power on turns back to the last setting used (so I'm not constantly turning on the controller to disco light). Amazon Alexa control is a bonus, Phone control would be acceptable, Infrared control would be acceptable.



Any specific RGB controllers you'd recommend me evaluate?



I was considering wiring a control distribution block/amp with four connectors and wiring all 13 speakers to the control block directly vs. daisy chaining all the speakers' LEDs. I think this would eliminate potential voltage drop by the end of the run (and subsequent color change or dimming) and also ease troubleshooting should one wire fail.



Any ideas for a control/distribution block?



As to the extension cords - it looks like there is RGB 4 wire extensions available on amazon for about $8 for 30 feet. While that's tolerable, I have tons of phone cord sitting in boxes and I wonder if 4 wire phone cord would work as extension cable? If a 16' cord is 60 watts, than a 2' cord should be 7.5 watts. 7.5 watts shouldn't require a very thick gauge wire at all? I'll probably need as much as 40 feet.



Anything else I should be considering in this project?




---------------------------------------------------------------
DONE! -

More info on speakers
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...eakers-in-commercial-project.310/#post-435727


100% brightness red

Here's the main stuff I recommend:
RGB Kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FTMBXJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This controller works great! It has 32 feet of RGB lighting, power supply, a bunch of connector, RF remote (NOT IR), and is an all in one kit. Looks like the price came down too. It's now $40.

You may want this 4 wire cable for your runs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FCW0U74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And you will ABSOLUTELY want these connectors: They'll save you hours!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0J7X9B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Archaea]

Crosshairs
Perhaps, I placed this thread in the wrong subforum? I chose electronics subforum, but didn't realize electronics was a subforum of case modding. If it would be better placed in another subforum - feel free to fix my mistake.

 

[Algrim]

Very cool. I'd suggest the Home Theater PCs & Equipment forum.

 

[Archaea]

Hmmm... Maybe this controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTMBXJ...colid=S62QXGN5JYWK&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

with some of this extension cable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FCW0U7...olid=3BIRYPVDF1DFH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

and these connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756W9ZH7/?https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-g...3&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=IP65+5050+connector

 

[pendragon1]

^ that's a good way to go. with a little looking you can get cheaper options if you want. but with the money is speakers Im guessing not...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDW4M8...&pd_rd_r=c7226d22-b53b-11e8-b369-ffe841fc31b4
https://www.amazon.com/Light-Connec..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WGVMSZAHAJZ826TYF9DG

 

[Archaea]

^ that's a good way to go. with a little looking you can get cheaper options if you want. but with the money is speakers Im guessing not...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDW4M8...&pd_rd_r=c7226d22-b53b-11e8-b369-ffe841fc31b4
https://www.amazon.com/Light-Connec..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WGVMSZAHAJZ826TYF9DG

I'm all about cost savings. It's how I afforded the fancy speakers (I bought them used on ebay for less than half price they are new).

I think I'll need pretty close to the full 100M instead of the 100Feet of wiring though. I've got to wire up 13 runs, some maybe as long as 40' Some probably < 10' --- depending on where I put the block.

FWIW, I HATED using those little white connectors. I have some now. I haven't tried any of the fancier connectors - but I'm sure hoping they are easier. Those white cheap connectors A.) require you to strip off the rubber waterproofing to slide the contacts under (that's a task and a half in itself), and B.), barely fit over the water proof rubber to snap closed. and C) sliding the foil that holds the four color connectors under the contacts tends to wreck it.

It took me quite a long time to wire up just over a half dozen of those connectors (I installed some cabinet lighting in the kitchen, and one strip under my kids bed, and a few pieces already in the home theater room). Sometimes I'd strip the rubber too low and scrape the metal, sometimes the white connectors would bust. I'm hoping the fancier, more expensive connectors which are supposed to be true press fit - supposedly no stripping of waterproofing rubber or wire sleeve needed - you just snap it into place, pull a bit, and it is supposed to pierce where it needs to making the connections. If it works, it will save me a lot of time and frustration in assembling this. Multiple hours I'll wager...

HOWEVER, thank you for the suggestions! I'm always conscious (borderline obsessive) of trying to find the best deals on my projects, and I appreciate that you gave this adventure some attention and recommendations.

 

[Archaea]

Not fancy but I'll probably use this as a power distribution block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZ6Y3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I cut the source controller's output wire and fashion it's four wires to this block, then the other side of the block can hold the 13 red, green, blue, and ground leads too. That way each of the 22" LED strips are getting the same input voltage, and I'm not daisy chaining them speaker to speaker such that the last LED strips would end up dimmer than the first.

 

[KazeoHin]

watching thread because this looks awesome....

 

[IdentityCrisis]

That's a really cool effect, looks like you have a great home theater room.

 

[Archaea]

That's a really cool effect, looks like you have a great home theater room.

Thank you, I should be getting all the parts this week from my Amazon order. It'll take me some time to get it all put together, but I'll update with pictures when it's complete, and speak to lessons learned that might save the next person some time. This is my home theater room thread at avsforum.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-g...rchaea-s-multi-purpose-home-theater-room.html

 

[Archaea]

My last consideration I'm wrestling with is how to connect this LED light extension from each speaker to the run in the drywall in a cosmetically clean but still easy to detach manner. I couldn't find any RGB 4 pin keystones for a cosmetic wallplate anywhere.

Any ideas?

 

[Riouken]

My last consideration I'm wrestling with is how to connect this LED light extension from each speaker to the run in the drywall in a cosmetically clean but still easy to detach manner. I couldn't find any RGB 4 pin keystones for a cosmetic wallplate anywhere.

Any ideas?

What about a recessed wall plate or a brushed wall plate? You could mount the box directly behind the LED connetor and that would allow the slack to slip back into the wall. If you wanted to take the speaker down you could just lift it up with the slack that you leave and then detach it.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_13?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=resessed+wall+plate&sprefix=resessed+wall,aps,146&crid=2UA6GXE3P658C

 

[Archaea]

I'm now thinking about using keystone wall plates.

RJ11 (a phone jack) is four wires. RGB is four wires. I could use wallplates and keystone jacks to give it a nice finished look. Wire the LED out to a RJ11 connector and use a RJ11 keystone jack wall plate.

How many watts is a RJ11 jack or phone cord good for over 12 volt? Each LED strip will be 22" which is about 7 watts at 12 volt. All the power doesn't come in over a single line - it comes over 3 lines for Red, Green, and Blue --- black wire is return though. I guess to be safe I could just use cat 6 keystones.

I'm currently using these wallplates for my speaker terminals:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-10...8&qid=1400622850&sr=8-4&keywords=speaker+wall

But I could easily swap to this:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6729

and these

Keystone Speaker terminal jack - black - $1.51
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8434
Keystone Speaker terminal jack - red - $1.51
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8436

Leaving one keystone jack open for the connector of choice - either RJ11 or RJ45

 

[Algrim]

RJ11 (a phone jack) is four wires. RGB is four wires. I could use wallplates and keystone jacks to give it a nice finished look. Wire the LED out to a RJ11 connector and use a RJ11 keystone jack wall plate.

How many watts is a RJ11 jack or phone cord good for over 12 volt? Each LED strip will be 22" which is about 7 watts at 12 volt. All the power doesn't come in over a single line - it comes over 3 lines for Red, Green, and Blue --- black wire is return though. I guess to be safe I could just use cat 6 keystones.

Phone lines were originally designed to power telephones in addition to carrying a voice signal. After a little googling I came across a 1.5A per contact for RJ11 and other modular connectors. Using the age-old power formula: W = A x V, each connector should handle 18 W (1.5 x 12).

 

[Archaea]

Just decided to go with Cat 6 keystones and cables as they are now more common and actually end up being cheaper. I think I've now picked up all the items I needed for this project. Just waiting for everything to arrive. I'll use Fusion black plastic spraypaint on the wallplate and banana jack keystones to make everything black to match my walls.

 

[Outlaw85]

Very jealous. Will be following!

 

[enyownz]

oooo this looks awesome. Have you thought about configuring it so the LEDs match whats on your screen or do you prefer the solid color? I am running an ambilight clone system myself to mimic whatever source I play on tv. Works great.

 

[DooLocsta]

Watching, this looks like it is going to turn out amazing.

 

[Archaea]

Found this post that shows how to make the cheap Chinese RGBWW led strips compatible with the Phillips Hue app.

https://char.gd/blog/2018/building-better-cheaper-philips-hue-led-strips

 

[Outlaw85]

Any updates Archaea ? Checked over at AVS and looked like you made some progress and honed in your soldering skills but have taken a break?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-g...aea-s-multi-purpose-home-theater-room-66.html

 

[Archaea]

Yeah, thanks for asking! I have the front three Left/Center/Right speakers “done”.

I requested crossover help from the DIY crowd at avsforum for a frequency response problem (a dip at 2,000hz) ultimately because of a 20 watt 8 ohm sandbox resistor had failed on 9 of the 13 speakers I bought used. Those helpful gents at AVS put me on the right path and a friend of mine showed me the ropes with soldering. That was actually more work than I expected, but luckily the fix was just that simple, a single resistor.

Pics

Verifying frequency response is good after the resoldering job.

Then the screen wall (144” Jamestown cinema scope Seymour XD acoustic transparent fabric with the cell phone camera flash on but lights out.

And the same shot with the cell phone flash off and the three front speakers with red LED lighting on.

I’ve had a bunch of other projects distract me since I started this. IT problems at church, my dishwasher cut it’s own cord, my car intake manifold seals blew, because the catalytic converter failed and clogged the exhaust (I spent all day yesterday on that am only half done) and my bathroom facet failed meaning I had replace the plumbing and in doing so rip out all the tile. I’ve beem trying to fix each of these and more. Then the holidays, four kids, I’m changing jobs after 9 years this week...yikes — It’s been tooooo busy lately.

 

[Outlaw85]

Dang! I'll just say Happy Thanksgiving. lol

I don't blame you. HT would be put low on that list but ist still damn impressive. That is going to look awesome when completed.

Looked up the '70J-1', do you just have the lower half of the pairs? I'm guessing it's not required unless you have a massive room/cinema? Either way, looking for more updates when life slows a bit.

 

[Archaea]

Dang! I'll just say Happy Thanksgiving. lol

I don't blame you. HT would be put low on that list but ist still damn impressive. That is going to look awesome when completed.

Looked up the '70J-1', do you just have the lower half of the pairs? I'm guessing it's not required unless you have a massive room/cinema? Either way, looking for more updates when life slows a bit.

There are the JBL CBT 70J-1 which is the main speaker with 4 woofers and 16 tweeters - http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/installed-sound/cbt-series/cbt70j-1#.W_uGkvZFz-g
(60Hz - 20,000Hz)

and there is the JBL CBT 70JE-1 which is the optional bass extension module. It adds four more of the same woofer, but when combined together extends the mainspeaker down to 45Hz, and adds more midbass. You couldn't just use this speaker by itself, it's purpose built to be used with the CBT 70J-1.
(45hz to 700Hz) Combined Package specs:
http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/...ries/cbt70j-1-plus-70je-1-system#.W_uHIfZFz-g


I bought one of the 70JE-1 to test for a steal on eBay - about $150. I like it, but it only really makes a difference when I turn off my subwoofers. Since I have eight, 18's, and love bass - I don't think I'll have much desire to turn them off on regular basis. I might pick up a second 70JE-1 for stereo music testing, (san's subs) but then I'd probably have to pull the Left and Right speaker out from behind the screen and mount to the left and right of the screen -- I'm still undecided on that. For cinema I like my left center and right behind the screen.

 

[Archaea]

I'm running into a problem using the cat 6 cable. It's too stiff. It's a bear to work with and upsets the small gauge delicate RGB 5050 wire connections. I think I may go back to just the little thin RGB 5050 standard extensions, and quit fighting that Cat 6.

 

[Outlaw85]

There are the JBL CBT 70J-1 which is the main speaker with 4 woofers and 16 tweeters - http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/installed-sound/cbt-series/cbt70j-1#.W_uGkvZFz-g
(60Hz - 20,000Hz)

and there is the JBL CBT 70JE-1 which is the optional bass extension module. It adds four more of the same woofer, but when combined together extends the mainspeaker down to 45Hz, and adds more midbass. You couldn't just use this speaker by itself, it's purpose built to be used with the CBT 70J-1.
(45hz to 700Hz) Combined Package specs:
http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/...ries/cbt70j-1-plus-70je-1-system#.W_uHIfZFz-g


I bought one of the 70JE-1 to test for a steal on eBay - about $150. I like it, but it only really makes a difference when I turn off my subwoofers. Since I have eight, 18's, and love bass - I don't think I'll have much desire to turn them off on regular basis. I might pick up a second 70JE-1 for stereo music testing, (san's subs) but then I'd probably have to pull the Left and Right speaker out from behind the screen and mount to the left and right of the screen -- I'm still undecided on that. For cinema I like my left center and right behind the screen.

yep, that is what I meant. didn't know it was just a low-mid add-on. Nice find on prices too. And holy snaps, all about that bass. lol Where are the other 3 hiding?

For your left/right with the JBL CBT 70JE-1, would it be possible to set up and put a switch (thinking low tech) mid wire to manually turn on/off when you want so you don't have to mess around behind the screen? Not sure how that would affect the sound.



To the wiring issue, I thought that was just being run from plate to plate? Are you carrying the cat6 from the plate to speaker too? At least the 4pin wiring isn't too expensive if you decide to re-run it.

 

[Archaea]

yep, that is what I meant. didn't know it was just a low-mid add-on. Nice find on prices too. And holy snaps, all about that bass. lol Where are the other 3 hiding?

For your left/right with the JBL CBT 70JE-1, would it be possible to set up and put a switch (thinking low tech) mid wire to manually turn on/off when you want so you don't have to mess around behind the screen? Not sure how that would affect the sound.

To the wiring issue, I thought that was just being run from plate to plate? Are you carrying the cat6 from the plate to speaker too? At least the 4pin wiring isn't too expensive if you decide to re-run it.

What I was trying to do was wire to the wall plate with RGB 5050 wire. Covert at the back of a keystone jack behind the wall plate to cat6. I cut a cat6 cable in half and ran the cut end back through a small appropriately sized hole i drilled in both the box cab and the woofer array piece so the cut cat 6 cable came out the front of the woofer array and the standard RJ45 connector was hanging out the back. I affixed the RGB light strip to the tweeter array and then tried to affix the cat6 wires to the snap connector on the RGB strip. That all works fine(lots of refitting to actually get all the connections working and plenty of testing but ultimately fine. It’s the screwing in of the tweeter array that jacks up the connections again and when it’s screwed in I don’t have access to the connection anymore to try to get all 4 connections working again. I spent 3.5 hours yesterday trying to get one more speaker working and gave up in frustration. Soldering might be a better option, but ultimately the cat 6 cable is too big and too stiff for the tiny area I have to work in between the woofer and tweeter array. I wanted the cat6 cable originally for the clean install look to the wall plate, but if I have to do this 10 more times the way I’m trying it now, there’s no way it’s worth the frustration. I’ll try extending a RGB 5050 extension cable next from the LED array and maybe terminate a RJ-45 end to the RGB 5050 cable? I’ll see how that works.

I paid about $435 for each JBL CBT 70j-1, Which in large quantity like I bought was the best deal I’d seen in 3-4 years of watching eBay. I liked them and wanted them ever since I heard them at our local AMC prime. They are my favorite speakers I’v heard in a commercial cinema, but their $1100 each street price was just too high to sensibly buy 13, so I waited with eBay alerts set until I found a local eBay seller, selling 34 of them, and picked up my desired 13. The $175 price I got on the single JBL CBT 70je-1 was a great deal, but it’s seeming like I’ll have to pay ~400 ish or $450 for a second unless I just wait out for another unique opportunity. (Which I’ll likely do)

“Where are the subwoofers?”
5, 18” subs up front. 3 identical 18” subs behind the seating area. (Firing into the back of my seats for tactile nearfield response).

The CBT 70je-1 is designed to be mounted vertically, but it’s really just too tall to put behind my acoustic transparent screen, so if I use them for L/R they’d have to be out front. I’d probably mount them to the wall instead of using a DJ tripod, but this is basically how that’d look.

 

[Outlaw85]

What I was trying to do was wire to the wall plate with RGB 5050 wire. Covert at the back of a keystone jack behind the wall plate to cat6. I cut a cat6 cable in half and ran the cut end back through a small appropriately sized hole i drilled in both the box cab and the woofer array piece so the cut cat 6 cable came out the front of the woofer array and the standard RJ45 connector was hanging out the back. I affixed the RGB light strip to the tweeter array and then tried to affix the cat6 wires to the snap connector on the RGB strip. That all works fine(lots of refitting to actually get all the connections working and plenty of testing but ultimately fine. It’s the screwing in of the tweeter array that jacks up the connections again and when it’s screwed in I don’t have access to the connection anymore to try to get all 4 connections working again. I spent 3.5 hours yesterday trying to get one more speaker working and gave up in frustration. Soldering might be a better option, but ultimately the cat 6 cable is too big and too stiff for the tiny area I have to work in between the woofer and tweeter array. I wanted the cat6 cable originally for the clean install look to the wall plate, but if I have to do this 10 more times the way I’m trying it now, there’s no way it’s worth the frustration. I’ll try extending a RGB 5050 extension cable next from the LED array and maybe terminate a RJ-45 end to the RGB 5050 cable? I’ll see how that works.

I paid about $435 for each JBL CBT 70j-1, Which in large quantity like I bought was the best deal I’d seen in 3-4 years of watching eBay. I liked them and wanted them ever since I heard them at our local AMC prime. They are my favorite speakers I’v heard in a commercial cinema, but their $1100 each street price was just too high to sensibly buy 13, so I waited with eBay alerts set until I found a local eBay seller, selling 34 of them, and picked up my desired 13. The $175 price I got on the single JBL CBT 70je-1 was a great deal, but it’s seeming like I’ll have to pay ~400 ish or $450 for a second unless I just wait out for another unique opportunity. (Which I’ll likely do)

“Where are the subwoofers?”
5, 18” subs up front. 3 identical 18” subs behind the seating area. (Firing into the back of my seats for tactile nearfield response).

The CBT 70je-1 is designed to be mounted vertically, but it’s really just too tall to put behind my acoustic transparent screen, so if I use them for L/R they’d have to be out front. I’d probably mount them to the wall instead of using a DJ tripod, but this is basically how that’d look.

That's a lot of wiring hokey pokey lol. I'm not sure about the 5050 wire thickness in comparison to the Cat 6, but what about sleeving the cables from the wall to the speaker? You could still use the flexible 5050 wire but sleeve it in black for looks? Or would a cat 5 cable work better? I agree with the use of the connector, it allows easier service or replacement but that would hopefully be never.


I wish I had a space to fit half your setup. lol. Would love to hear something like that. I need to find new friends And nice titty tat, protector of the woofers.



For the CBT 70je-1 add-on, what about a new mounting plate that would allow it to be mounted next to it instead of above?


Sorry if I'm pushing too much and being annoying. I'm hoping it helps and/or gives ideas.

 

[Archaea]

Back rear wall surrounds

Behind AT projector screen in baffle wall.



5 speakers done... of 13.

But at least there is finally forward movement. I ran all my LED wire, painted the new keystone plates and wired up a couple more speakers this weekend. They are hooked into the Alexa controllable wifi RGB controller. The mic function is actually pretty good to have the light show synced to the music. I can also take a picture of something with my camera and use the tones in that picture to set my light color. Sort of cool. Precision RGB settings can be applied with the 0-255 RGB range on each of the three colors with the controller.

The brightness is maxed out for the pics, but in real world use I'll probably run it closer to 1/3 or 1/4 brightness, so as to avoid casting ambient light illumination on the walls.

I’m tired of my basement being an absolute mess from re-running wires, and assembling speakers. I've still got cabs and crossovers everywhere - that’s as much incentive to finish this project as anything else.

 

[Archaea]

 

[Outlaw85]

Looks awesome! I love the back row pew. It must be for the kids and movie talkers? lol

 

[Archaea]

Looks awesome! I love the back row pew. It must be for the kids and movie talkers? lol

Ha!

Overflow seating for superbowl parties was the original idea. A local church was giving away a sanctuary full of them for free or an optional donation.

I’m onboard with demoting movie talkers to the back wall pew!

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Your home theater setup seems impressive, but I wonder what value the lights add?

 

[Archaea]

Your home theater setup seems impressive, but I wonder what value the lights add?

primarily cosmetics...

Well that and my own subjective enjoyment — which is the point of such things.

They added a cool factor to the AMC Prime theater that I am attempting to mirror. The AMC theater turned them on before and after the movie, but had them off during. I’ll probably do the same.

My current controller can sync with music output and give me something to visualize while I listen to music. That’s a function I enjoy. I do fully expect the value in ‘lighting a speaker’ is not shared by all.

Another option, a co-worker was recently telling me about a RGB LED controller box that gets hooked into your HDMI path and reflects in your RGB strips the overall color tone of each frame in a movie of media scene in real-time. That might be fun to play with, but since I have a projector, and a very dark room intentionally — it probably won’t be an option for me because the ambient light would diminish the projected image contrast. The box is made primarily for RGB lighting behind the TV but is something I’m looking into.
https://www.dreamscreentv.com/

 

[Outlaw85]

primarily cosmetics...

Well that and my own subjective enjoyment — which is the point of such things.

They added a cool factor to the AMC Prime theater that I am attempting to mirror. The AMC theater turned them on before and after the movie, but had them off during. I’ll probably do the same.

My current controller can sync with music output and give me something to visualize while I listen to music. That’s a function I enjoy. I do fully expect the value in ‘lighting a speaker’ is not shared by all.

Another option, a co-worker was recently telling me about a RGB LED controller box that gets hooked into your HDMI path and reflects in your RGB strips the overall color tone of each frame in a movie of media scene in real-time. That might be fun to play with, but since I have a projector, and a very dark room intentionally — it probably won’t be an option for me because the ambient light would diminish the projected image contrast. The box is made primarily for RGB lighting behind the TV but is something I’m looking into.
https://www.dreamscreentv.com/

I believe the fancy folk call it "ombionce". lol

For the dreamscreen thing, that would be cool if you could get that to work with the speaker leds. Although, getting the vertical to horizontal effect might be a pita. Was thinking more from a perspective that shadows/lighting was cast to make you feel like you were in the scene.

 

[wra18th]

I'm very impressed with this project. I've never experienced 9.1.4 ATMOS. I currently have a 7.2 HT setup.

 

[Archaea]

I’ve got one speaker that is misbehaving in frequency response slightly (green line). I tested all 13 speakers tonight with a nearfield mic measurement in that same position and overlaid their frequency responses.

I’ve asked the DIY gurus on avsforum for help with that problem. They helped me solve a previous problem with a 2khz dip which ended up being an 8 ohm sandbox resistor on some of the the crossover boards that had failed. This particular problem is pretty minimal. It’s only a couple dB down and any autoEQ will compensate easily for it, If I can’t get working advice on fixing it.

 

[FM_Fixxxer]

I believe the fancy folk call it "ombionce". lol

For the dreamscreen thing, that would be cool if you could get that to work with the speaker leds. Although, getting the vertical to horizontal effect might be a pita. Was thinking more from a perspective that shadows/lighting was cast to make you feel like you were in the scene.

It's actually pronounced OOOOOOOMMMMMMbioonce.

 

[Outlaw85]

View attachment 135608 View attachment 135606 View attachment 135607


I’ve got one speaker that is misbehaving in frequency response slightly (green line). I tested all 13 speakers tonight with a nearfield mic measurement in that same position and overlaid their frequency responses.

I’ve asked the DIY gurus on avsforum for help with that problem. They helped me solve a previous problem with a 2khz dip which ended up being an 8 ohm sandbox resistor on some of the the crossover boards that had failed. This particular problem is pretty minimal. It’s only a couple dB down and any autoEQ will compensate easily for it, If I can’t get working advice on fixing it.

While I used to go crazy on stuff like that, years ago before life happened, mostly as many as I could as loud as I could. Never to the point you are with the mic and frequency tests. cheers to that (no beer emoji )

For the misbehaving speaker, that is for the movie talkers and kids in the pew. Let the peasants suffer!!

 

[Archaea]

oooo this looks awesome. Have you thought about configuring it so the LEDs match whats on your screen or do you prefer the solid color? I am running an ambilight clone system myself to mimic whatever source I play on tv. Works great.

Which system do you use?

 

[Archaea]

I got the misbehaving speaker fixed by swapping out the tweeter array with a spare one I got from the seller. Now all is well with the set!

I took them all down to get the in place close mic measurement - verifying everything was good across all 13 speakers --- so now I've got to remove the generic previous DJ pole mounts, replace those mounts with the specific JBL mounts they came with (which will place them a bit closer to the wall and give me articulation options). Patch some drywall, paint, run AutoEQ, and throw on some movies!

Whew! Getting close!