OLED48C1PUB

Murzilka

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Only difference is the cpu and Freesync premium.

Edit: Freesync Premium, that wasn't initially present on the CX, was later enabled via firmware update.
 
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vegeta535

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Here's to hoping the next C series gets the G series brightness capabilities next near.
Oh? I see there is no B series this year. So the C1 is the new low end with the G being the better panel and the 8k being top of the line now. Shitty but I don't see them making the C and G equal. Too many people were buying the C over old more expansive G for no benefit.
 

MistaSparkul

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Oh? I see there is no B series this year. So the C1 is the new low end with the G being the better panel and the 8k being top of the line now. Shitty but I don't see them making the C and G equal. Too many people were buying the C over old more expansive G for no benefit.

There is no B series because there is no room for that lineup when you compare the price of the A series which is the new entry OLED vs the C series.
 

rinaldo00

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Oh? I see there is no B series this year. So the C1 is the new low end with the G being the better panel and the 8k being top of the line now. Shitty but I don't see them making the C and G equal. Too many people were buying the C over old more expansive G for no benefit.
The C tier is still the middle tier, the new low end tier is now the A tier, the top end is still the G tier.

This article explains the new lineup

https://www.tomsguide.com/news/lg-c1-vs-g1-vs-a1-which-2021-oled-tv-should-you-buy
 

madpistol

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In previous years, the "C" series of LG's OLED was their flagship, while the B was "step down" and anything above a C was considered "Designer" or "Gallery"... basically, an upgrade to form factor and not much else.

This year is different because the "G" series gets a legitimate spec bump compared to the C. It will be interesting to see how this diversifies LG's portfolio of OLED sets.



Also, am I missing something, or has the hype over 8K sets diminished compared to last year?
 

sharknice

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In previous years, the "C" series of LG's OLED was their flagship, while the B was "step down" and anything above a C was considered "Designer" or "Gallery"... basically, an upgrade to form factor and not much else.

This year is different because the "G" series gets a legitimate spec bump compared to the C. It will be interesting to see how this diversifies LG's portfolio of OLED sets.



Also, am I missing something, or has the hype over 8K sets diminished compared to last year?

I heard C series might switch to the new evo panels, maybe even before the C2.
 

rinaldo00

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I thought the CX already has freesync premium. And only the 77GX had the freesync premium plus.
Well the article in the first post had this
Differences
Introduced20212020
Picture Processorα9 Gen 4 AI Processor 4Kα9 Gen 3 AI Processor 4K
FreeSync VersionFreeSync PremiumFreeSync
Stadia Cloud GamingFirmware updateNo
 

MistaSparkul

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Well the article in the first post had this
Differences
Introduced20212020
Picture Processorα9 Gen 4 AI Processor 4Kα9 Gen 3 AI Processor 4K
FreeSync VersionFreeSync PremiumFreeSync
Stadia Cloud GamingFirmware updateNo

The CX got Freesync Premium through a firmware update.
 

joseph089

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Hey all, I recently bought FV43U VA monitor but I'm thinking about chaniging it to LG C1 48" but one thing is holding me back. I have already OLED 55" CX in my living room but every time I connect / disconnect my PC or even turn it off - I need to set the HDMI setting to PC as the TV keeps reseting it. Would any of C1 owners be able to confirm if this is not the issue with C1's ?

Thanks.
 

AzixTGO

Limp Gawd
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Feb 21, 2016
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Hey all, I recently bought FV43U VA monitor but I'm thinking about chaniging it to LG C1 48" but one thing is holding me back. I have already OLED 55" CX in my living room but every time I connect / disconnect my PC or even turn it off - I need to set the HDMI setting to PC as the TV keeps reseting it. Would any of C1 owners be able to confirm if this is not the issue with C1's ?

Thanks.
it actually detected the PC when I connected it. I'm not sure if there's a difference in what it means to manually set to PC and what happens automatically.
 
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res

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I have an RTX2080 with only DisplayPort 1.4 connectors. I'd need an DP 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 adapter cable. Will it work without issues, so I get the 4k 120Hz?
Can you recommend a good one that is 3 Meters long (~10 feet)? My current 3 Meters DP 1.4 is from Club3D.

The monitor weights about 15kg (~33 lbs). I'd like to mount it on an arm you mount on a table, but need about 60 cm height (~23 inch). Since the VESA screws on the C1 are below the monitors center point, 50 cm (~20 inch) might actually work as well. I found one that supports 15 kg, but complains are the tilt doesn't hold.
Nothing too expensive though. Btw, what is the distance between the bottom edge and the bottom screws of the VESA on the C1?

I wonder, at what distance you no longer see pixels with the fonts? 48" 4k has ppi of 93, a bit too low for the size, but that is a matter of distance. How clear is the picture in games at about an arms length? I tested an 43" 4k VA, and the picture is super sharp in games, despite the lower ppi compared to 32" 4k, but the C1 is a bit larger than 43".
 

XoR_

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I have an RTX2080 with only DisplayPort 1.4 connectors. I'd need an DP 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 adapter cable. Will it work without issues, so I get the 4k 120Hz?
You should be able to already be able to do 120Hz at 4K with RTX 20x0 GPU with the only caveat being that it will only work at YCbCr420 and 8-bits
Luma part of the image is sent at full resolution in this mode but colors only at quarter so you get effectively color at 1080p with this video mode.
There is also no dithering for some reason on Nvidia at 4:2:0 so there is slight banding, but nothing too severe.
I cannot seem to get integer scaling to work but this is on LG 27GP950 and not OLED TV so your mileage might vary.
VRR (G-Sync) works in this mode.
HDR does not work. It seems HDR needs at least 10-bit to work at 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 but seems to work at 8-bit 4:4:4/RGB. Seems like some artificial limitation to me.

Good option for games imho. Not so much for desktop. For videos it is also better to drop to 60Hz and proper 4:4:4 sampling and bitdepth.
Good explanation and image to test color if we have reduced color sampling can be found at https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

Can you recommend a good one that is 3 Meters long (~10 feet)? My current 3 Meters DP 1.4 is from Club3D.
I am not aware of any such solution but one thing I am almost certain of is that you really need to be careful with these devices. If you go this route (DP to HDMI adapter/cable) you want something that will work with VRR and not only just allow 4K 120Hz (with maybe HDR) otherwise you loose one of the most important gaming features and be better off using HDMI 2.0 directly out of your GPU.
Other than that DP 1.4 at 120Hz can at most support 8-bit at 4:4:4 subsampling or 10-bit at 4:2:2 subsampling. Improvement for sure given HDR can work + you get dithering, but loosing VRR doesn't seem to be worth it.

This is all speculation at this point though. I am not aware of such devices or their actual limitations. In theory there might be perfect adapter which could not only support VRR but also DSC for proper video mode support. It is however unlikely...

I wonder, at what distance you no longer see pixels with the fonts? 48" 4k has ppi of 93, a bit too low for the size, but that is a matter of distance. How clear is the picture in games at about an arms length? I tested an 43" 4k VA, and the picture is super sharp in games, despite the lower ppi compared to 32" 4k, but the C1 is a bit larger than 43".
It is the same as 24" 1080p monitor. These are standard PPI screens used by many up close. 48" 4K will be just much larger. Perhaps too large to use from such close distance.
I would not call it super sharp. Certainly not sharp sharp like 27" 4K monitor is :)

One issue and one of the numerous reasons I didn't go OLED TV myself yet is RGBW pixel layout and rather strange way these panels display pixels. With standard RGB subpixels from this distance you might see screen door effect, or not, deepens on your eyesight. With RGBW and the way pixels are displayed you are pretty much guaranteed to always see gaps between pixels
c1-oled_pixels-3-medium.jpg

These panels at most use 3 subpixels out of four. For RGB screen it can also happen that there are gaps caused by dim subpixels but on RGB if one color is out then you are viewing either already very dim pixels or very saturated and vibrant colors blur in eyes. Add white subpixel and use it for displaying white and you have recipe for seeing very large gaps between pixels. It will also screw up subpixel font rendering.

Solution to these pixel issues is simple: sitting further away until screen surface appears smooth. TV are usually viewed across the room and 1080p at 48" should be usable in moderately sized room. For gaming it might be good to sit closer but not "at arms length", it seems too close, especially with massive gaps between pixels.
In any way people who get these television sets and use as monitors find distance and scaling settings that works for them.

Personally I am waiting for QD-OLED and because this version of OLED panel will have no white subpixels I hope they will just make normal RGB subpixel panel and it should be also more resistant to burn-in making it even more suitable to use for desktop stuff. I mean at the same 100cd/m2 the less actual organic LEDs have to work the less burn-in.
 
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res

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@XoR_:

Thank you. Some things are clearer now.

I hear that a USB-C to HDMI 2.1 adapter allows you to use 4k 120Hz and 10bit, it only lacks VRR. Unfortunate.
 
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kasakka

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One issue and one of the numerous reasons I didn't go OLED TV myself yet is RGBW pixel layout and rather strange way these panels display pixels. With standard RGB subpixels from this distance you might see screen door effect, or not, deepens on your eyesight. With RGBW and the way pixels are displayed you are pretty much guaranteed to always see gaps between pixels
View attachment 410106
These panels at most use 3 subpixels out of four. For RGB screen it can also happen that there are gaps caused by dim subpixels but on RGB if one color is out then you are viewing either already very dim pixels or very saturated and vibrant colors blur in eyes. Add white subpixel and use it for displaying white and you have recipe for seeing very large gaps between pixels. It will also screw up subpixel font rendering.

Solution to these pixel issues is simple: sitting further away until screen surface appears smooth. TV are usually viewed across the room and 1080p at 48" should be usable in moderately sized room. For gaming it might be good to sit closer but not "at arms length", it seems too close, especially with massive gaps between pixels.
In any way people who get these television sets and use as monitors find distance and scaling settings that works for them.
This just does not happen in my experience. I don't see any "gaps" on my OLED screens even if I sit up close. But sitting up close would be just pointless because the sheer size of the display makes it uncomfortable. I have mine mounted at 1m viewing distance and it's still a very large screen. I use 125% scaling which helps for text size and font rendering.
 

res

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This just does not happen in my experience. I don't see any "gaps" on my OLED screens even if I sit up close. But sitting up close would be just pointless because the sheer size of the display makes it uncomfortable. I have mine mounted at 1m viewing distance and it's still a very large screen. I use 125% scaling which helps for text size and font rendering.
Looking at the screen from very up close I see little black dots, but at an arms length they are not really visible.
 
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XoR_

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It all depends on eyesight and distance
I would probably see distances between pixels
If that would be bad or not I am not sure but pixel structure is one of the things which makes me want to wait for QD-OLED. Maybe they will make them RGB. I like RGB, it looks like everything else and works good with subpixel font rendering... which I do not even use 😅
 

sharknice

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I see the black space between pixels on both LCDs OLEDs. Maybe the subpixel layout makes a difference but I still see the space on both unless I'm at an unreasonably far away distance.

The "retina" display calculations leave out a lot of variables like gaps between pixels and subpixels. If you set a pixel to red it's green and blue subpixels are just black space.
Ideally there would be no subpixels and the entire pixel would change color, and there would be no gaps between any pixels at all, but that isn't how the technology works.
When you see the color purple on screen you aren't seeing straight purple. You're seeing red and blue subpixels. You could just set every other pixel to blue and red and it would still look purple. You could keep increasing it every 2, every 3, etc. and it would still look purple until the blocks become big enough they look like squares.

If you look close, or really focus on a spot you can see the black gaps or "screen door effect". I have good vision, but I think most people can see it if they look for it. It's just something you forget about because it's good enough and you get used to it.
 

madpistol

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Remember, LG's OLED subpixel matrix is WRGB. Most other LCD/OLED techs just have RGB subpixel matrix.

What you're seeing is one of the few downsides to LG's WRGB setup for their OLED panels.

EDIT: Obviously this was pointed out in an earlier post... oops lol
 

XoR_

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Remember, LG's OLED subpixel matrix is WRGB. Most other LCD/OLED techs just have RGB subpixel matrix.
OLED panels typically use non-RGB subpixel arrangements eg. mobile devices usually use pentile and new Switch uses something else entirely.

RGB pixels are especially important for computer monitors. Some arrangements can make image look worse when looking at it up close eg. pentile is especially visible as it reduces number of subpixels per pixel.

Typical standard PPI (eg. 1080p 24") RGB LCD shows screen door effect and for me it is still visible from meter away. Make this RGBW and put additional gaps between subpixels - it would be very visible, especially on white which would have one 1/4 subpixel lit and 3/4 of them black. RGB panel has 100% subpixels lit for white. Gaps between color pixels are not as visible because human vision blurs everything that has color in it. In fact on RGB panel I see screen door effect more on white than eg. red. Green is similar to white but on green it should be more visible so rule holds.

In either way on current OLED TV's that is not an issue as long as they are viewed from normal TV distances :)
 
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