LG 48CX

Pastuch

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Only if it were 144Hz, or better yet 160Hz it would be a total monitor killer. I'm not mentioning the 38" form factor because I don't see it happening in the OLED world in any kind of the foreseeable future. 4:4:4 4K 12-bit 120Hz with Nvidia VRR is crazy though. Is like an m4 with akrapovic exhaust.
I was praying for 240hz.
 

elvn

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question... the c1 has an optical audio out. currently i'm using an old 1080p-era yamaha receiver with a 5.1 speaker setup, hooked up to the optical out from my soundblaster z because it supports dolby dts. it's been a really solid audio setup but i'm wondering...

could i theoretically run the optical from the tv to the receiver, connect my other devices like consoles to the tv directly, and essentially use the tv as the "receiver" with my yamaha avr simply acting as the optical decoder + speakers?

You definitely can connect everything to the TV and then run audio out from the tv to the receiver. However LG won't decode DTS so if you need that for any videos you'd be better off bypassing the TV and running from your pc to the receiver directly. If you don't mind switching inputs on the receiver you could always do one audio input on the receiver as the TV with consoles or whatever is plugged into the tv's hdmi ports and a different audio input as your pc.

My setup has:
- console and PC through the TV's hdmi inputs. Those along with the TV's build in webOS out to the receiver (lacking DTS out of the TV).
- a nvidia shield through the receiver so the receiver's DAC converts the audio and just sends the video to the TV. That way I can run DTS content. The newer shields also have great AI upscaling tech of 720p and 1080p, they even make lower rez content than that a little better..

The setup is smart enough to work in either direction when I switch between inputs on my receiver.

I also use a shARC device which acts as a eARC port even on an older receiver. You just plug the shARC box's hdmi out into to any normal hdmi input on the receiver (other than arc port) and connect the LG tv's eARC out to it with another hdmi cable.

It cost more to get a shield and a shARC but I'm very happy with it. I've since moved the shield to my living room though. I don't really watch movies on my pc. I had it on there just to see what an OLED could do when I first got the 48" CX
 

elvn

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Only if it were 144Hz, or better yet 160Hz it would be a total monitor killer. I'm not mentioning the 38" form factor because I don't see it happening in the OLED world in any kind of the foreseeable future. 4:4:4 4K 12-bit 120Hz with Nvidia VRR is crazy though. Is like an m4 with akrapovic exhaust.

Higher peak is always nice but most games at 4k with very high plus to ultra settings won't be filling those Hz. On those more demanding games at 4k rez, even those from several years ago with settings cranked or something with mods and extreme view distances (especially when flying) like GTAV - higher than 120Hz is pretty meaningless unless you are filling those Hz with unique frames.

100fpsHz average graphs are usually something like:

(70) 85fpsHz <<<<--- 100fpsHz --- >>>> 115fpsHz (117capped)

I don't think you'd be losing out much with a 120hz panel until the bottom end of your game's graphs start getting closer to or toward 120fps. Even then, motion definition (more dots per dotted line in a curve, more unique animation pages in an animation flip book flipping faster) would have diminishing returns. In online games (rather than 3ms to 7ms LAN games) you wouldn't really have any scoring advantage due to the nature of online gaming's tick rates, ping rates, and biased netcode grey area/rubberband manufacturing the biased/interpolated results and sending them back to you at a rate much slower than your local fpsHZ. Outside of sample-and-hold blur reduction, the extreme Hz scoring thing for online games is just marketing. If you filled a very high Hz screen with FPS near to the peak Hz you would be getting greater sample-and-hold blur reduction though which would be great and can be an advantage showing more clarity during viewport panning at speed. Besides that, having a clear screen without blur during viewport panning looks way better aesthetically. At extreme fpsHz, during viewport panning at speed you can actually read in game text and you wouldn't be blurring out texture detail and other details during those periods. Hopefully someday we'll get some frame duplication tech without adding latency or artifacts so we can take something like a 100fps solid (minimum) game set point and multiply it x5 for a 480hz panel (getting very little blur) or x10 for a 1000hz panel (essentially "zero" blur like a crt).
 
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Pastuch

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This is awesome for those of us putting the 42 inch on a monitor arm

"For both the G2 and C2, LG says it’s using a new composite fiber material in their construction that makes these TVs significantly lighter; for example, the 65-inch C2 is nearly half the weight of the C1. That should result in a less stressful unboxing and mounting experience for these very thin, fragile displays."

Theverge
 

elvn

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This is awesome for those of us putting the 42 inch on a monitor arm

"For both the G2 and C2, LG says it’s using a new composite fiber material in their construction that makes these TVs significantly lighter; for example, the 65-inch C2 is nearly half the weight of the C1. That should result in a less stressful unboxing and mounting experience for these very thin, fragile displays."

Theverge

I put my 43" samsung's on huge ergotron LX HD arms. It worked for landscape when I had one 43" but they ended up being too heavy in portrait mode because they are lopsided with a heavy bottom in portrait mode. Once I switched them to portrait mode I had to keep at least a tiny corner of the heavy end of each display on the desk surface or they would teeter to the heavy end. I could try adding weight to the other side for load balancing but it's fine for my purposes the way it is because they are so tall that I want them at the desk level the arms are mounted on anyway. The arms are still very handy for their placement, adjusting them, and moving them out of the way to get behind them. The composite thing might make the 42" LG's a lot lighter though so yes that could be great for people's mounting options.

Eventually I'm going to install a pole mount floor to ceiling so I can put two different monitors on the pole, above/below each other. At some point I might sell or otherwise retire the ergotron arms and get some portrait mode capable floor-foot or wheel pole stands for the side screens.
 
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Blackstone

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Very exciting development. Probably the most exciting development in PC display tech in many years. I have used a plasma for gaming for a while but I am ready to go back to the desktop with the C2.

I will need a retain a regular monitor for productivity but with the lighter weight and smaller size, I should be able to roll two screens. The logistics of dealing with the 48 were just daunting. Awesome sauce!

Any idea when the C2 42 is hitting stores?
 

badmojomk

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42 inch C2 is now o ooo oooofficial!
  • 4:4:4 12-bit 120Hz. Maybe not...I may have misread this part.
  • Full 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 bandwidth.
  • Evo panel.
  • No heatsink though. :( G2 has heatsink but there's no options for 42" or 48").
I don't know about you guys but I am happy to go back to OLED!

I'm confused about whether the C2 42"/48" will use the Evo Panel. TFT Central is reporting they *won't* be using OLED Evo for the smaller screen sizes.

https://tftcentral.co.uk/news/lg-c2-oled-tv-line-up-for-2022-including-the-42-sized-oled42c2
 

illli

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ND40oz

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Can it pass through a Dolby signal though? Lot's of TVs don't have the capability to pass those signals out.
It does over HDMI arc, I can’t test it with optical though.

CF5A047A-CFAD-4128-82A9-1968DDD8FEF4.jpeg
D2E4B31A-D5D5-424E-8003-BD93F52A2C85.png
 

Colonel Sanders

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have any of you guys encountered an occasional "bug" (i'm assuming it's a bug) where some games can screw with the hdr and turn off the windows hdr setting? most games are fine but i've got a couple that do it if they're set for exclusive fullscreen
 

kasakka

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you can view the new LG tv models in 3d in this link

https://lgvirtualstudio-he.com/ces/tvs?category=OLED&product=C2

the 42 has different "feet" compared to the other models
That's a welcome change. I cannot overstate how shitty the LG stand is. Zero adjustment, forget about putting anything in front of the TV and it sticks out the back a lot and is terrible for running cables through there when all of the connectors are on the edge. It's just a bad design and I feel a floor stand or wall mount is pretty much a must for these if they are not in the living room.

The 42" legs look like crap too but at least they seem a bit more practical when you don't have to reserve a lot of extra space at the back.
 

Murzilka

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Higher peak is always nice but most games at 4k with very high plus to ultra settings won't be filling those Hz. On those more demanding games at 4k rez, even those from several years ago with settings cranked or something with mods and extreme view distances (especially when flying) like GTAV - higher than 120Hz is pretty meaningless unless you are filling those Hz with unique frames.

100fpsHz average graphs are usually something like:

(70) 85fpsHz <<<<--- 100fpsHz --- >>>> 115fpsHz (117capped)

I don't think you'd be losing out much with a 120hz panel until the bottom end of your game's graphs start getting closer to or toward 120fps. Even then, motion definition (more dots per dotted line in a curve, more unique animation pages in an animation flip book flipping faster) would have diminishing returns. In online games (rather than 3ms to 7ms LAN games) you wouldn't really have any scoring advantage due to the nature of online gaming's tick rates, ping rates, and biased netcode grey area/rubberband manufacturing the biased/interpolated results and sending them back to you at a rate much slower than your local fpsHZ. Outside of sample-and-hold blur reduction, the extreme Hz scoring thing for online games is just marketing. If you filled a very high Hz screen with FPS near to the peak Hz you would be getting greater sample-and-hold blur reduction though which would be great and can be an advantage showing more clarity during viewport panning at speed. Besides that, having a clear screen without blur during viewport panning looks way better aesthetically. At extreme fpsHz, during viewport panning at speed you can actually read in game text and you wouldn't be blurring out texture detail and other details during those periods. Hopefully someday we'll get some frame duplication tech without adding latency or artifacts so we can take something like a 100fps solid (minimum) game set point and multiply it x5 for a 480hz panel (getting very little blur) or x10 for a 1000hz panel (essentially "zero" blur like a crt).
I understand what you say about rubberbanding, net code and maxing out the fps to see the difference in max refresh rate, but I'm judging from experience with the Acer Predator X38p: 120hz vs 160hz felt almost like 60hz vs 120hz. With hardware g-sync enabled. I played a lot of the online PVE game Vermentide 2, and it was very apparent there. Just drastic difference between 120hz and 160hz. At the same time I compared it to my current OLED display as well, that supports 1080p 120hz (noVRR) and it smeared much more than the X38p at 1600p 160hz with hardware gsync. Probably the VRR makes the 120hz OLED just as smooth or even smoother, but I haven't seen the VRR OLED personally yet.
 

Lateralus

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Love the Ferris Bueller quote! :)

Two things stuck out to me after reading that, since it's more or less a recounting of your personal experience/monitor journey and a recommendation to consider the 48CX/C1 if someone thinks that size will work for them. It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations. And in my case, my previous card (1080Ti) wouldn't let me use the VRR/G-Sync, either. The new AMD and Nvidia cards are required to fully unlock all features and unleash the beast. Most people considering one of these displays should already have a new-ish card by now anyway, but we know there are still supply issues and people waiting for cards.

The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model. I'll likely stick with my 48CX but there appear to be a sizable number of people out there who feel like a 42" would work better for them and be a more "reasonable" size for desktop use. And you could mention the aggressive auto-dimming and service remote workaround but...hell, I realize it's not a review of the thing! I just think these are important notes for anyone who might be ready to shell out $1k+ for one.

Looking forward to more content in the future, for sure!
 

kasakka

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Love the Ferris Bueller quote! :)

Two things stuck out to me after reading that, since it's more or less a recounting of your personal experience/monitor journey and a recommendation to consider the 48CX/C1 if someone thinks that size will work for them. It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations. And in my case, my previous card (1080Ti) wouldn't let me use the VRR/G-Sync, either. The new AMD and Nvidia cards are required to fully unlock all features and unleash the beast. Most people considering one of these displays should already have a new-ish card by now anyway, but we know there are still supply issues and people waiting for cards.

The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model. I'll likely stick with my 48CX but there appear to be a sizable number of people out there who feel like a 42" would work better for them and be a more "reasonable" size for desktop use. And you could mention the aggressive auto-dimming and service remote workaround but...hell, I realize it's not a review of the thing! I just think these are important notes for anyone who might be ready to shell out $1k+ for one.

Looking forward to more content in the future, for sure!
The DP adapters, at least the Club3D one actually is pretty solid nowadays. VRR is the only feature that doesn't work but otherwise it's been trouble free for me. Good thing too as it's not like I can upgrade from my 2080 Ti anytime soon.
 

Lateralus

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The DP adapters, at least the Club3D one actually is pretty solid nowadays. VRR is the only feature that doesn't work but otherwise it's been trouble free for me. Good thing too as it's not like I can upgrade from my 2080 Ti anytime soon.
Glad to hear it. It's been a while since we've discussed them and I was thinking that VRR was really the only lacking feature at this point, but that could be a biggie for some. Still, using an adapter and living without VRR might be a preferred alternative to paying through the nose for some of these cards.
 

Seyumi

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New OLED 34” Alienware ultra wide OLED monitor btw and also Asus ROG 42” & 48” OLED monitors w/ DP in addition to HDMI 2.1, big heatsink for higher HDR, etc.
 

FrgMstr

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It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations.
Good point, had not considered that.
The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model.
Was not actually announced when I hit the publish button. I will make an update.
 

FrgMstr

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Love the Ferris Bueller quote! :)

Two things stuck out to me after reading that, since it's more or less a recounting of your personal experience/monitor journey and a recommendation to consider the 48CX/C1 if someone thinks that size will work for them. It might be worth mentioning that you need an HDMI 2.1 GPU to take full advantage of the set; otherwise you'll be limited to choosing between 60Hz/4:4:4 or 120Hz/4:4:2 unless you use one of those DP adapters which themselves had some quirks and limitations. And in my case, my previous card (1080Ti) wouldn't let me use the VRR/G-Sync, either. The new AMD and Nvidia cards are required to fully unlock all features and unleash the beast. Most people considering one of these displays should already have a new-ish card by now anyway, but we know there are still supply issues and people waiting for cards.

The only other thing I'd like to have seen mentioned was the upcoming (now confirmed, apparently) 42" C2 model. I'll likely stick with my 48CX but there appear to be a sizable number of people out there who feel like a 42" would work better for them and be a more "reasonable" size for desktop use. And you could mention the aggressive auto-dimming and service remote workaround but...hell, I realize it's not a review of the thing! I just think these are important notes for anyone who might be ready to shell out $1k+ for one.

Looking forward to more content in the future, for sure!
Update published with link to your post. :) Thank you, sir.
 

kasakka

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Glad to hear it. It's been a while since we've discussed them and I was thinking that VRR was really the only lacking feature at this point, but that could be a biggie for some. Still, using an adapter and living without VRR might be a preferred alternative to paying through the nose for some of these cards.
Yeah I don't think VRR is ever happening at least on these adapters. CableMatters sells another one and that does not support VRR either.

I'm just happy that they exist in the first place so I can get 95% of the features of my CX 48" without spending a ton on a 30 series GPU.
 

elvn

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Mostly from my replies earlier in thread when the 42" was hinted at:


That 42" screen should be a little more manageable for some people but it's not that huge of a difference viewing distance wise vs PPD at the nearer 60 PPD end. It's still an appreciable difference of 6" at 80PPD where you are more or less sitting the same distance away as the screen's diagonal measurement.

60 PPD on a 42" 4k screen = 29.3"
60 PPD on a 48" 4k screen = 33.5"

80 PPD on a 42" 4k screen = 41.1"
80 PPD on a 48" 4k screen = 47"

These aren't sized suitably for use as up against the wall like a bookshelf / player~upright piano style desk setups. This kind of size demands more of a command center setup.
If you aren't sitting at least that far away, your text will look like crap just like a 32" 1440p up close or a 37" 1080p. You will get graphics aliasing and text fringing that no amount of text subsampling tweaking will be able to compensate enough for.
If you sit the appropriate distances away, text and overall pixel structure will look fine once AA and text subsampling are utilized. The viewing angle also gets better viewed at a distance nearing the screen's diagonal measurement to get ~ 45 deg - 50 deg


-----

So size wouldn't make much difference to my setup. I'd be more interested in what a curved one would bring to the table but that samnsung one rumored on HDTVTEST is 34" ultrawide so would be way too small for my setup and my liking at ~13" tall.

31.5" 4k 16:9 is ~ 15.5" tall which is better for nearer setups imo (~80 PPD/70PPD/60PPD at 31.8"/26.5"/22" view distance), .
48" is ~ 23" - 23.5" tall.
42" is ~ 20.5" tall.


The 42" could be priced better and/or affect the pricing of the 48" ones though, and if the weight is very light that would be a good improvement.
 

mirkendargen

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HDMI cable update, I spotted https://www.amazon.com/FIBBR-4K120Hz-Dynamic-Optical-Compatible/dp/B09KZK1QV2 and was floored by how cheap it was for a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and gave the 5m a try (I really only need like 1.5m with my current setup but with the prices so close why not in case I need longer in the future). I'm happy to report it is the only HDMI cable I have tested (Zeskit 2m, Monoprice 2m, bundled PS5 cable) that has zero errors in the HDMI diag screen on a CX after the initial handshake is complete at 48Gbps (via EDID editing). Pretty shocking results, I'm probably going to use these in varying lengths everywhere going forward because they are so much easier to bend and route than fat megashielded high gauge copper cables.
 

elvn

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I understand what you say about rubberbanding, net code and maxing out the fps to see the difference in max refresh rate, but I'm judging from experience with the Acer Predator X38p: 120hz vs 160hz felt almost like 60hz vs 120hz. With hardware g-sync enabled. I played a lot of the online PVE game Vermentide 2, and it was very apparent there. Just drastic difference between 120hz and 160hz. At the same time I compared it to my current OLED display as well, that supports 1080p 120hz (noVRR) and it smeared much more than the X38p at 1600p 160hz with hardware gsync. Probably the VRR makes the 120hz OLED just as smooth or even smoother, but I haven't seen the VRR OLED personally yet.

That doesn't make sense to me spec wise. A 2080ti, if you are still rolling with that in your sig on vermintide2, gets around 90 to 100 fps *average* on that game on a 4k screen with max settings. So even with 3840 x 1600 you wouldn't be clearing way above 120fpsHz ranges unless you turned some stuff down considerably I guess. An oled has a much faster response time than a LCD too, even a LCD marketed as 1ms. So I don't see how, at similar frame rates but with a much faster response time, you'd see more sample-and-hold smearing on an oled than a LCD. Unless you mean something else by "smearing" ? When I hear smearing I think poor frame rates (like 60fpsHz) rather than running frame rates high enough to feed the peak hz of a higher hz panel. Low rate ranges like 60fps exacerbate the sample-and-hold blur to smearing levels rather than "soften blur" levels. People sometimes say smearing when they are talking about black trailing on poor response time panel's (i.e. a VA lcd's) black trailing. VRR just prevents stuttering of mismatched frames vs the native refresh rate of the panel and allows you to run an average or roller coaster of frame rates "cleanly" rather than stripping all of your graphics settings down to reach a set fpsHz minimum and sync it.

That acer predator is also 1000:1 contrast and meaningless fakeHDR 400 so you are losing a lot by comparison there. If it looks better or even just faster and less blurry to you I have no problem with that I'm just saying it doesn't make sense measurably spec wise. Maybe on that predator x38p *itself* 120hz vs 160hz made a bigger difference for some reason even when not hitting those frame rate ranges. If so that would be a limitation of that panel. I don't know what 1080p oled you were comparing it to either. Modern oled's have a few minor issues but smearing and response time related blur is not among them. If anything, OLED are "too fast" for low frame rate content like 24fps movies. They will show stuttering where LCDs are all slower so mask it. You can use cinema screen feature on the LG OLEDs to multiply 24fps x5 to hit 120fps so that you completely eliminate judder but the only way to minimize stutter on very low frame rate content (most obvious and ugly jerkiness during panning scenes) is to use interpolation.

Incidentally I played the hell out of vermintide 2 for months when it was first released. It's a great game. I was pretty good at it, I just burned out playing it so much. I had been playing it with 1080ti sli at that time on a 1440p VA so was getting decent frame rates though the VA had it's downsides.
 
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kalston

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HDMI cable update, I spotted https://www.amazon.com/FIBBR-4K120Hz-Dynamic-Optical-Compatible/dp/B09KZK1QV2 and was floored by how cheap it was for a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and gave the 5m a try (I really only need like 1.5m with my current setup but with the prices so close why not in case I need longer in the future). I'm happy to report it is the only HDMI cable I have tested (Zeskit 2m, Monoprice 2m, bundled PS5 cable) that has zero errors in the HDMI diag screen on a CX after the initial handshake is complete at 48Gbps (via EDID editing). Pretty shocking results, I'm probably going to use these in varying lengths everywhere going forward because they are so much easier to bend and route than fat megashielded high gauge copper cables.

Very useful info thank you. I was able to find the same one on amazon EU so this goes right in my cart.
 

Pastuch

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HDMI cable update, I spotted https://www.amazon.com/FIBBR-4K120Hz-Dynamic-Optical-Compatible/dp/B09KZK1QV2 and was floored by how cheap it was for a fiber HDMI 2.1 cable and gave the 5m a try (I really only need like 1.5m with my current setup but with the prices so close why not in case I need longer in the future). I'm happy to report it is the only HDMI cable I have tested (Zeskit 2m, Monoprice 2m, bundled PS5 cable) that has zero errors in the HDMI diag screen on a CX after the initial handshake is complete at 48Gbps (via EDID editing). Pretty shocking results, I'm probably going to use these in varying lengths everywhere going forward because they are so much easier to bend and route than fat megashielded high gauge copper cables.
I'm ordering this from Canada. Thanks so much for sharing, I've been trying to get a working 50 foot HDMI cable for months.
 

gamerk2

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It does over HDMI arc, I can’t test it with optical though.
Would be a good test; I know *many* TVs that won't pass through Dolby/DTS over Optical for "reasons". The fact it does over HDMI is promising though.
 

gamerk2

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have any of you guys encountered an occasional "bug" (i'm assuming it's a bug) where some games can screw with the hdr and turn off the windows hdr setting? most games are fine but i've got a couple that do it if they're set for exclusive fullscreen
Yep, it's the main reason I still don't use HDR on Windows. Given most games are Borderless Fullscreen now, any Windows UI element (volume bar, game bar, an achievement popping, notifications, etc.) will cause Windows to briefly go back to SDR then into HDR again, blanking the screen during each transition. Also had a few instances where Windows (or the TV) gets stuck in the wrong color mode after so many transitions and requires a manual toggle of HDR to fix.

Even forcing off any UI elements doesn't fix the issue; the problem still occurs. The transition from HDR back to SDR is being done by something lower level the user can't force off.

This has been the single most infuriating issue with HDR on Windows, and it shouldn't even be that hard to fix. The only workaround I've found is to use a maximized window, which is not ideal for OLEDs (burn in risk due to top pane being static).
 

elvn

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https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/gfsr9q/what_does_no_dts_decoder_on_lg_cx_mean_for_me/

It means you cannot use the built in apps like plex or media player to watch content with DTS audio. DTS passthrough to receiver via hdmi or optical does not work either. If you want to watch content with DTS audio, you need to buy an external device.

A digital media streaming device like apple tv, roku, shield and so on. You can't use the CX TV internal apps for DTS content, if that is important for you. You can convert the audio to ac3 and that will work, albeit with lesser quality compared to DTS. Plex will probably do that automatically.

It will not work over HDMI, as the TV must decode the audio or pass it through, and neither works.
You will need a separate digital audio cable from your playback device to your audio system. Or run the hdmi through your audio system and then to the tv, but i would not recommend that.

OP said he was going to use it for gaming, so in the case of an Xbox One X (or anything supporting HDMI 2.1) you're going to want to hook the video device directly to the TV to take advantage of instant gaming response and variable refresh rate.

I am able to confirm that the plex tv app does it automatically through ARC. If you go into settings, you can disable DTS under audio and your server will transcode the audio to a supported format.

No, DTS bitstream passthrough via eArc does not work!! There is no way to playback DTS content on a CX without using an external device like apple tv.


That thread you linked says they are ultimately using audio splitters directly off of their set-top device to get DTS audio direcly from the device to their receiver separately while feeding their console or set-top device directly into the TV's HDMI port for video (and not using the TV's own optical audio output or eARC for that device).

There are a lot of different audio formats and several of them are named "Dolby" + "<insert name here>", so you have to be certain of what you are talking about processing or passing. (For example there is Dolby Digital, and there is Dolby DTS).


https://www.howtogeek.com/304200/wh...ween-dolby-digital-and-dts-and-should-i-care/

Dolby​

  • Dolby Digital: 5.1 max channel sound at 640 kilobits per second (this is common on DVDs)
  • Dolby Digital Plus: 7.1 max channel sound at 1.7 megabits per second (supported by some services like Netflix)
  • Dolby TrueHD: 7.1 max channel sound at 18 megabits per second (“lossless” quality available on Blu-ray discs)

DTS​

  • DTS Digital Surround: 5.1 max channel sound at 1.5 megabits per second
  • DTS-HD High Resolution: 7.1 max channel sound at 6 megabits per second
  • DTS-HD Master Audio: 7.1 max channel sound at 24.5 megabits per second (“lossless”)

As you can see, the propagation of two competing companies with evolving standards has resulted in roughly comparable levels of surround sound quality across three different tiers. There are some more technical differences between the codecs—for example, DTS-HD Master Audio can sacrifice the compression rates on some of its channels to boost encoding to a maximum of nine separate channels, and both DTS:X and Dolby Atmos are alternative “immersive” modes that offer even more distinct surround sound.


Audio passable over spdif/optical audio cables in general (not in regard to LG OLEDs):
optical-coaxial-supported-audio-formats.png


Audio format support chart for Toslink/optical audio + Arc + eARC cables
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hdmiarcguide-5l.jpg


LG CX/C1 audio format support per RTings:

Audio Passthrough:

ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)

eARC support = Yes

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = Yes

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes

5.1 DTS via ARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes

5.1 DTS via Optical = No

To enable eARC, go to Select HDMI Input Audio Format and choose 'Bitstream'. Then set Digital Sound Output to 'Auto' and toggle eARC Support.
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
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Messages
4,396
I'm ordering this from Canada. Thanks so much for sharing, I've been trying to get a working 50 foot HDMI cable for months.

I'd like to someday get a 50' or longer optical cable to try mirroring my 48CX in my PC room gpu to my living room TV for some gaming sessions. That would require an optical usb-c (3.1) cable to a usb hub for peripherals as well. I have a lot of projects going on right now but in the long run I'll probably try it out sometime later this year.

I looked up the optical hdmi and optical usb-c cables from monoprice.com a few times but I haven't used any of their long optical cables before.

monoprice.com 4k and 8k optical hdmi cables
 

ND40oz

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Joined
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Messages
12,587
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/gfsr9q/what_does_no_dts_decoder_on_lg_cx_mean_for_me/

That thread you linked says they are ultimately using audio splitters directly off of their set-top device to get DTS audio direcly from the device to their receiver separately while feeding their console or set-top device directly into the TV's HDMI port for video (and not using the TV's own optical audio output or eARC for that device).

There are a lot of different audio formats and several of them are named "Dolby" + "<insert name here>", so you have to be certain of what you are talking about processing or passing. (For example there is Dolby Digital, and there is Dolby DTS).


https://www.howtogeek.com/304200/wh...ween-dolby-digital-and-dts-and-should-i-care/


Audio passable over spdif/optical audio cables in general (not in regard to LG OLEDs):
View attachment 428594

Audio format support chart for Toslink/optical audio + Arc + eARC cables
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
View attachment 428595

LG CX/C1 audio format support per RTings:

Audio Passthrough:

ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)

eARC support = Yes

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = Yes

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes

5.1 DTS via ARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes

5.1 DTS via Optical = No

To enable eARC, go to Select HDMI Input Audio Format and choose 'Bitstream'. Then set Digital Sound Output to 'Auto' and toggle eARC Support.

Dude, where have you been, the very first thing I said:

It can do dolby but it can't do dts.

Then I was asked:

Can it pass through a Dolby signal though? Lot's of TVs don't have the capability to pass those signals out.

Which I then confirmed it could do over ARC and referenced the other post where people were doing it over optical.
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
4,396
Dude, where have you been, the very first thing I said:



Then I was asked:



Which I then confirmed it could do over ARC and referenced the other post where people were doing it over optical.
Yeh it got truncated in a few replies to "can it do dolby". There are a lot of different Dolby formats.

I caught this and the linked reply which seemed to ball Dolby digital and dts together.

Would be a good test; I know *many* TVs that won't pass through Dolby/DTS over Optical for "reasons". The fact it does over HDMI is promising though.
It works according to this: https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/rbpgmt/lg_c1_and_ps5_51_through_optical_out_on_tv/


LG CX/C1 audio format support per RTings:

Audio Passthrough:

ARC = Yes (HDMI 2)

eARC support = Yes

Dolby Atmos via TrueHD via eARC = Yes

DTS:X via DTS-HD MA via eARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via ARC = Yes


5.1 DTS via ARC = No

5.1 Dolby Digital via Optical = Yes


5.1 DTS via Optical = No
 
Last edited:

ND40oz

[H]F Junkie
Joined
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Messages
12,587
Yeh it got truncated in a few replies to "can it do dolby". There are a lot of different Dolby formats.

I caught this and the linked reply which seemed to ball Dolby digital and dts together.

For the record, in my example 1917, I was playing the English Dolby TrueHD with Dolby Atmos (TrueHD) track and it passed dolby 5.1 over ARC to my Beam. I don't have the Beam 2 which has eARC and Atmos support to test with but it should work.
 

Murzilka

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Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Messages
1,027
That doesn't make sense to me spec wise. A 2080ti, if you are still rolling with that in your sig on vermintide2, gets around 90 to 100 fps *average* on that game on a 4k screen with max settings. So even with 3840 x 1600 you wouldn't be clearing way above 120fpsHz ranges unless you turned some stuff down considerably I guess. An oled has a much faster response time than a LCD too, even a LCD marketed as 1ms. So I don't see how, at similar frame rates but with a much faster response time, you'd see more sample-and-hold smearing on an oled than a LCD. Unless you mean something else by "smearing" ? When I hear smearing I think poor frame rates (like 60fpsHz) rather than running frame rates high enough to feed the peak hz of a higher hz panel. Low rate ranges like 60fps exacerbate the sample-and-hold blur to smearing levels rather than "soften blur" levels. People sometimes say smearing when they are talking about black trailing on poor response time panel's (i.e. a VA lcd's) black trailing. VRR just prevents stuttering of mismatched frames vs the native refresh rate of the panel and allows you to run an average or roller coaster of frame rates "cleanly" rather than stripping all of your graphics settings down to reach a set fpsHz minimum and sync it.

That acer predator is also 1000:1 contrast and meaningless fakeHDR 400 so you are losing a lot by comparison there. If it looks better or even just faster and less blurry to you I have no problem with that I'm just saying it doesn't make sense measurably spec wise. Maybe on that predator x38p *itself* 120hz vs 160hz made a bigger difference for some reason even when not hitting those frame rate ranges. If so that would be a limitation of that panel. I don't know what 1080p oled you were comparing it to either. Modern oled's have a few minor issues but smearing and response time related blur is not among them. If anything, OLED are "too fast" for low frame rate content like 24fps movies. They will show stuttering where LCDs are all slower so mask it. You can use cinema screen feature on the LG OLEDs to multiply 24fps x5 to hit 120fps so that you completely eliminate judder but the only way to minimize stutter on very low frame rate content (most obvious and ugly jerkiness during panning scenes) is to use interpolation.

Incidentally I played the hell out of vermintide 2 for months when it was first released. It's a great game. I was pretty good at it, I just burned out playing it so much. I had been playing it with 1080ti sli at that time on a 1440p VA so was getting decent frame rates though the VA had it's downsides.
Well, I tuned the game a bit so it run very smoothly. Forced the utilization of all available threads on the CPU and did some other tweaks in the game settings to max the smoothness.
By "smear" I meant how clear the image was displayed in motion. It was much clearer on the IPS (vs LG C7 OLED). And not just in Vermentide2, but also in MWO and Far Cry 5, the games where I tested things at the time.
I never even tried running any HDR content on the Predator.
Vermentide2 is sure an awesome game and I spent immense amount of time in it. 👍
 

elvn

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Messages
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Well, I tuned the game a bit so it run very smoothly. Forced the utilization of all available threads on the CPU and did some other tweaks in the game settings to max the smoothness.
By "smear" I meant how clear the image was displayed in motion. It was much clearer on the IPS (vs LG C7 OLED). And not just in Vermentide2, but also in MWO and Far Cry 5, the games where I tested things at the time.
I never even tried running any HDR content on the Predator.
Vermentide2 is sure an awesome game and I spent immense amount of time in it. 👍

Idk if that C7 had the same kind of "clean" game mode without any processing that the modern gaming oriented LG OLEDs have in game mode set up properly. The older oleds had motion smoothing on by default I think which caused a smearing look that a lot of people online complained about back then.

I had like 860 hrs in V2 in 2018 alone. Loved that game. That it supported SLI that late into the life of my sli rig was the cherry on top.
 
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