LG 48CX

Monstieur

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Can anyone confirm if OLED Light 36 still measures around 120 nits for SDR Game Mode with the LG 48CX? I'm using that now and it looks great, so I'm starting to believe it is indeed still 120 nits. I have no way to measure though. My room has some lights on, but it is still dim I'd say. The image looks bright enough I think, it doesn't look overly dim. So that's a good sign I guess. However, it is very confusing to me how Vincent Teoh says 35 OL is actually 100 nits. I'd really like to know for sure whether I am looking at 100 nits or 120 nits... it's driving me a little crazy. I'm thinking maybe he measured it in PC Mode and that is why Game Mode is dimmer? I am in Game Console Input, so I wouldn't be surprised if 36 OL results in 120 nits on my panel. I just wish I could know for sure if I am seeing 100 nits or 120 nits, so if anyone has any insight or can share their experiences (maybe you own a 48CX and have OLED Light at 36 as well) I'd really appreciate it!
You can toggle between SDR and HDR in Windows with the SDR content brightness slider set to 10 which is guaranteed to be 120 nits in HGIG mode (0 is 80 nits). It looks about the same as SDR with OLED Light set to 35. This is consistent across my CX, C1, and G1.
 
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You can toggle between SDR and HDR in Windows with the SDR content brightness slider set to 10 which is guaranteed to be 120 nits in HGIG mode (0 is 80 nits). It looks about the same as SDR with OLED Light set to 35. This is consistent across my CX, C1, and G1.
Oh, I don't have my TV connected to my computer :(

I only play on Xbox.

Maybe I will buy a long HDMI cable so I can run it across the room and test the TV with my PC (which is like 5 years old btw, not used for gaming, if that matters)! That way I can have peace of mind and know for sure whether it is 120 nits or not :D

So do you have the 48CX with latest firmware when you tested that? I think the bigger sizes might have brighter SDR Game Modes, but I'm not sure. That's great if OL 35 resulted in 120 nits with the CX. At 36 OL it def looks like 120 nits for me! I even have lights on. If it was 100 nits I feel like I would know lol. It would just look horribly dim I imagine...
 
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You can toggle between SDR and HDR in Windows with the SDR content brightness slider set to 10 which is guaranteed to be 120 nits in HGIG mode (0 is 80 nits). It looks about the same as SDR with OLED Light set to 35. This is consistent across my CX, C1, and G1.
I just moved my desktop to be near my CX, which was a hassle, and it looks like my graphica card (Radeon R7) does not even support HDR... so I definitely am unable to test what you did. That's a bit of a bummer. But maybe it is safe to say OL at 36 for me is 120 nits like I think and hope it is?
 
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kasakka

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I just moved my desktop to be near my CX, which was a hassle, and it looks like my graphica card (Radeon R7) does not even support HDR... so I definitely am unable to test what you did. That's a bit of a bummer. But maybe it is safe to say OL at 36 for me is 120 nits like I think and hope it is?
I measured my LG CX 48" with a Spyder 5 Pro and for me OLED Light at 20 was 120 nits. 30 is about 130 nits if I remember correctly, no longer have a calibrator so can't double check.

For me in HDR mode the SDR content brightness slider had to be at 7% for 120 nits but I don't know enough about calibrators to say if OLEDs need some special settings for accurate readings. These were all measured at the center of the screen.
 
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I measured my LG CX 48" with a Spyder 5 Pro and for me OLED Light at 20 was 120 nits. 30 is about 130 nits if I remember correctly, no longer have a calibrator so can't double check.

For me in HDR mode the SDR content brightness slider had to be at 7% for 120 nits but I don't know enough about calibrators to say if OLEDs need some special settings for accurate readings. These were all measured at the center of the screen.
Thanks for letting me know, that's crazy you got some high nit readings from OL only at 20... I definitely wouldn't be surprised if 36 OL on my 48CX is like 140 nits or so lol. I can't check the HDR in Windows as my GPU does not even support HDR sadly, but yeah, today I noticed my eyes getting used to the new OL after going down from 45 which I had previously set to for a long time. It definitely looks very natural, usually decently bright I'd say, I don't feel it's dim at all. Only sometimes it looks dim. I think it looks really nice. Again, if it was 100 nits, I feel like I'd probably know it and not like it considering I have lights on. I think it's probably safe to say OL 36 is between 120-140 nits on my panel just based on your measurements, Monstieur's, and TFTCentral.
 

kalston

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Thanks for letting me know, that's crazy you got some high nit readings from OL only at 20... I definitely wouldn't be surprised if 36 OL on my 48CX is like 140 nits or so lol. I can't check the HDR in Windows as my GPU does not even support HDR sadly, but yeah, today I noticed my eyes getting used to the new OL after going down from 45 which I had previously set to for a long time. It definitely looks very natural, usually decently bright I'd say, I don't feel it's dim at all. Only sometimes it looks dim. I think it looks really nice. Again, if it was 100 nits, I feel like I'd probably know it and not like it considering I have lights on. I think it's probably safe to say OL 36 is between 120-140 nits on my panel just based on your measurements, Monstieur's, and TFTCentral.

Another point of reference:
https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/post-1044974802

If you scroll down someone posted tftcentral's measurements too.
 

elvn

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Interesting infos all.

I don't think the white subpixel affects calibration or how the screen settings look in SDR levels. It might not really kick in or pollute the color space slightly until HDR levels to cheat higher brightness at lower OLED energy states/heat. TFT central tested and calibrated the "2D" color gamut, not the 3D HDR color volume which I'm not even sure can be calibrated accurately on WRGB.

Just a reminder that calibration and mastering, especially HDR mastering, is usually done in a dim to dark viewing environment. Those perceived levels change in different room lighting environments.

Our eyes see brightness, contrast, and saturation differently in bright daylight vs evening and nighttime. For example looking at the face of a flashlight or cellphone/tablet on high brightness setting in bright daylight vs looking at the same in dim evening or dark night. So if you don't want how your settings look to change to your eyes, you have to adjust your settings from reference when you aren't using your screen in a theater ~ dim lighting environment, and back again when you are. That or control your ambient lighting so that it never changes.

From the tftcentral CX review:

Luminance at the default 80% OLED light level was recorded at 186 cd/m2 which is a bit too high for prolonged general use, you will need to turn that down a bit to get a more comfortable level for close up desktop use. The black depth was 0.00 cd/m2 thanks to the self-emitting OLED panel and per pixel dimming and so this gives you an infinite contrast ratio – an obvious and major benefit of this technology.

From kalston's references link, which was actually armenius referencing the tft central review, so this is an image from the tftcentral lg cx review:

445844_1617296743128.png

..
Text
=============

In regard to the previous discussion in this thread about text

The 1 meter TFT central references in the quote below as providing a more proper viewing angle and usability is 39", which is in line with what I've been saying.
They mention text size concerns at farther distances but personally I think the higher distances I use make the text better as it increases the perceived ppi (gives you a higher PPD). I have zero issues with text size being readable at 38" - 48" away. In fact I have a higher ppi 43" 4k VA on either side of my 48" CX at 100% scaling 1:1 (~73 PPD to ~88 PPD) , but that is pretty much my limit. Any farther away at those ppi and I'd have to use 125%. It's like goldilocks and the 3 bears. There is a "just right zone". Up against the wall like a bookshelf desk setup/distance isn't it, and neither is 5 - 6 feet away.

I think it makes a lot of sense when you compare it to a 27" 4k. It compares to reasonable viewing distances for a 27" 4k.
..48" 4k's 66.6 PPD and 58 deg viewing angle at 38" away is the same as a 27" 4k's at ~20.5" viewing distance.
..48" 4k's 80 PPD and 48 degree viewing angle at 47" away is the same as a 27" 4k's at 26.5" away.

Here are some excerpts from the tftcentral review about text on the 48 CX
is a an extremely large 48″ in size for a desktop monitor. Our personal opinion is that this is going to be too large for most people for comfortable and practical desktop / office use. It is more suitable for those who want to sit a further distance away for gaming, consoles, movies etc and isn’t very practical for up-close desktop work. We feel the same way about actual desktop screens we’ve reviewed in the past like 40″ and 43″ models, they are just pushing the limits of what is comfortable for a desktop monitor. You end up with a huge screen up close which although it has a decent resolution and text/fonts don’t appear too large, gives you such a large area to look at that it’s hard to make use of it properly. You end up craning your neck to look around the screen given it is so big.

If you have a deeper desk, and can manage to sit at a further distance (maybe 1m or more away from the screen) then it might be more useable as a size, but you need to have the space for it and then there’s issues around text size to consider. That’s another thing, you need to keep in mind you’re going to need a big desk and a big PC area for a screen this size, it’s not like using a typical 24 – 27″ sized desktop monitor.

The resolution is a sensible size for the screen at least and 3840 x 2160 Ultra HD makes it more viable than if it was a 1080p only. On the 48″ model (which is certainly the better choice relative to the others for desktop use) the pixel pitch is 0.2767mm which is exactly the same as a 24″ monitor at 1920 x 1080. That means that from up close from a normal PC monitor viewing distance the font size is comfortable and comparable to a common desktop monitor. That’s fine, but it means you need to be at a normal PC monitor viewing distance which then means the screen is far too large and in your face. If you move yourself back to a more comfortable distance so that the screen size is less of a problem, the text size becomes too small and so you then have to use Operating System scaling to make it bigger. This reduces your desktop real-estate and adds complications for some applications, games, and systems. Scaling isn’t always the easiest thing to use on PCs.
..
The larger CX OLED screens in 55″ and above start to become far less practical as a desktop monitor though. Their size becomes even more of a problem for viewing the screen up close, and the pixel density decreases too. We can imagine some people managing with the 48″ model, but the others are really too big for practical desktop monitor use.
..
Update 15/10/20 – After some reader comments we went back to revisit this section the day after the review was first published. Text clarity seems to vary slightly depending on what input mode you select. The panel uses an RGBW (Red/Green/Blue/White) pixel layout although this seems to have little impact in our re-testing. With the HDMI input set to PC mode in the home dashboard you get very clear text and it looks normal, like a desktop monitor would which is great news. You can see the clarity captured in the photo above at native resolution. This is with the screen set to full RGB range / 4:4:4 chroma. There does appear to be a small issue though in the PC input mode in that colour gradients then seem to show a bit of banding in darker tones. It wasn’t major, but we couldn’t eliminate it. Dropping down to lower chroma levels (4:2:2 and even 4:2:0) didn’t help the banding, and just made the text look progressively worse, especially at 4:2:0
..
Contrary to this quote below, I think you have to keep it in PC named hdmi input mode (and run higher fps if using VRR) to get the lowest input lag but it wouldn't be horrible in other modes with all of the other processing turned off. The are basically letting it switch to 4:2:2 which removes banding but compromises text. Some people in this 48cx hardforum thread we are on use 8 bit dithered to eliminate the banding in PC named hdmi input mode. Note that youtube compression can still show banding in itself (and often does) so that is bad to use as test material. Chrome might have some issues too so I wouldn't use that to test for banding either.
One way to improve the gradient performance and remove the banding is to switch the HDMI input mode to something other than PC, which then treats it like a normal media input. You get access to move settings in the OSD as well, but this does impact text clarity a bit unfortunately. We don’t believe that moving out of PC input mode changes the lag of the screen, as long as you still have things like ‘instant game response’ turned on. The gradients are better and the banding is gone, but the text clarity is a little worse. Despite the NVIDIA control panel being set to full RGB/full chroma, it looks like chroma 4:2:2 sampling has kicked in for some reason. A photo of the text clarity in this mode is shown above too. The text doesn’t look terrible, but you get a bit of blurring on coloured backgrounds as you can see above. The PC input mode is the optimal option for desktop monitor use and office work, despite the bit of banding that’s introduced.
..
To beat a dead horse.. it's really not optimal unless your setup allows you to sit (33.5") 38" to 48" away so the text will look fine enough and the viewing angle width is more usable in games.
As a desktop monitor the size is not going to be to everyone’s liking, and personally we felt it was still too large even as a 48″ option for most people. You need a lot of space to accommodate it, and sitting up close for a normal PC viewing distance is a bit too in-your-face. Text clarity was not perfect due to the pixel layout and the scaling of resolution becomes a challenge if you want to sit at a more sensible distant viewing position.

=================

From Eizo's site... the zoom levels of the bubbles obviously exacerbate the look but it's a valid comparison.
The 48 CX's ppi is near to the 93ppi 2560x1440 WQHD one at ~92 ppi.
Sitting at an appropriate distance (60PPD to 80PPD) with subsampling tweaked will make the screen look more like the right example.

Original example and size from the Eizo site:
gOjOzJS.png


..
Edited the pic smaller:
kXpzyC9.png


..

Another extreme example.. the right higher PPI example blown up as if sitting ridiculously close showing that aliasing and text subsampling/AA "fog" is still there (you can see it in the first example too). The closer you sit the worse text will look. Scaling text to get more pixels per font character, increasing the text resolution, will help but only to a point in relation to how near your view distance is. You also lose desktop real-estate when you scale past 100% 1:1 and sitting too near goes past a good 45 - 50 deg viewing angle resulting in viewing angles that are poor for gaming with things at the extents (HUDs, notification, pointers, map, objective list, chat box, etc.). The closer you sit vs the ppi, the more aggressive the level of AA you have to apply in games to compensate too which is a performance hit.

More impactful on a desktop monitor vs a phone :watching:

Edited pic much larger:
eMbNVRy.png
 
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Advil

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So sit 38" to 48" away. I have executive depth desks in my office for this reason. You can also pull your desks out a foot and put a small stand or extension between it and the wall to get the same result. It can still look like it is meant to be that way if you just take a little care in how to do it.

Deep desks are not expensive. And a basic stand or extension to a desk even less so.

You could put up a wall mount with a little in/out adjustment and not need a stand at all.

Fringe benefit, you get a heck of a lot of desk open to clutter up.
 

Mizzer

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So sit 38" to 48" away. I have executive depth desks in my office for this reason. You can also pull your desks out a foot and put a small stand or extension between it and the wall to get the same result. It can still look like it is meant to be that way if you just take a little care in how to do it.

Deep desks are not expensive. And a basic stand or extension to a desk even less so.

You could put up a wall mount with a little in/out adjustment and not need a stand at all.

Fringe benefit, you get a heck of a lot of desk open to clutter up.
Agreed. Wall mount ftw.
 

Pastuch

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I measured my LG CX 48" with a Spyder 5 Pro and for me OLED Light at 20 was 120 nits. 30 is about 130 nits if I remember correctly, no longer have a calibrator so can't double check.

For me in HDR mode the SDR content brightness slider had to be at 7% for 120 nits but I don't know enough about calibrators to say if OLEDs need some special settings for accurate readings. These were all measured at the center of the screen.
I like 120 to 130 for desktop use and most games in SDR.
 

elvn

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2022 cant come soon enough. I hope the 42" C2 will be pure win and no problems.

..

That 42" screen should be a little more manageable for some people but it's not that huge of a difference viewing distance wise vs PPD at the nearer 60 PPD end. It's still an appreciable difference of 6" at 80PPD where you are more or less sitting the same distance away as the screen's diagonal measurement.

60 PPD on a 42" 4k screen = 29.3"
60 PPD on a 48" 4k screen = 33.5"

80 PPD on a 42" 4k screen = 41.1"
80 PPD on a 48" 4k screen = 47"

These aren't sized suitably for use as up against the wall like a bookshelf / player~upright piano style desk setups. This kind of size demands more of a command center setup.

If you aren't sitting at least that far away, yes your text will look like crap just like a 32" 1440p up close or a 37" 1080p. You will get aliasing and text fringing that no amount of text subsampling tweaking will be able to compensate enough for.

If you sit the appropriate distances away, text and overall pixel structure will look fine once AA and text subsampling are utilized. The viewing angle also gets better viewed at a distance nearing the screen's diagonal measurement to get ~ 45 deg - 50 deg


That size wouldn't make much difference to my setup. I'd be more interested in what a curved one would bring to the table but that samnsung one rumored on HDTVTEST is 34" ultrawide so would be way too small for my setup and my liking at ~13" tall.

31.5" 4k 16:9 is ~ 15.5" tall which is better for nearer setups imo (~80 PPD/70PPD/60PPD at 31.8"/26.5"/22" view distance), .
48" is ~ 23" - 23.5" tall.
42" is ~ 20.5" tall.


The 42" could be priced better and/or affect the pricing of the 48" ones though.
 
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Surly

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That size wouldn't make much difference to my setup. I'd be more interested in what a curved one would bring to the table but that samnsung one rumored on HDTVTEST is 34" ultrawide so would be way too small for my setup and my liking at ~13" tall.


The 42" could be priced better and/or affect the pricing of the 48" ones though.

I am super intrigued by this Samsung since a 34" to 38" OLED ultrawide is right in my sweet spot. But I have zero faith in Samsung not screwing it up in some fashion...

either a ridiculous 1000r curvature, low refresh, obscenely overpriced, or horrible quality control....

... or all of the above!
 

elvn

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I find 13" too short now for my personal taste. I felt like their ~ 13" heights were too short even compared to when I had a 31.5" 16:9 (~ 15.5" tall) and now I've become used to having a farther command center setup as the setup evolved. So the 34" ultrawides or other ~ 13" tall screens don't go with my setup and liking anymore. They seem like a belt to me.

You could sit nearer to them but however wide they are they are still "only" 13" tall 1440 px high and ~110ppi like a 27" 2560 x 1440p with wings.

34" diagonal 3440x1440 view distances:
28.5"-> 60PPD/ ~34.5"-> 70PPD / ~40" ->80PPD.

43" 21:10 ultrawide were still only ~ 13" tall and only 1200 px high.
49" 32:9 ultrawide are ~ 13.3" (13 and 3/8") tall and still only 1440 high.

Those resolutions could help vs graphics demands on gpu horsepower but aren't the best for deskop/app real-estate and 4k media.

A 48" 4k screen like the LG CX/C1 is around ~ 41.8" across left to right. So that's roughly equivalent to a 45.3" diagonal 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution screen when in 3840x1600 ultrawide resolution/mode. That equates to a 17.4" tall viewable in uw 3840x1600 resolution. For comparison, the neo G9 VA's screen is 13.3" tall with a 5120x1440 resolution (3840+1280 wide, or +640 px wing on each side by comparison vs 3840).

either a ridiculous 1000r curvature,

I'd really like a screen like a 38" to 48" 16:9's height and vertical resolution but longer in uw dimesions if I had a choice, up to ~ 20" tall, perhaps with the ability to curve it or a with good curve degree out of the box. One of the issues with curved screens is that resolution resolving into your PPD should determine your view distance. So the degree of the curve would depend on that and hopefully be designed for over 60 PPD in my opinion and up to 80PPD. Unfortunately you are stuck with whatever they decide to set the curve at unless someone releases a bendable one (which has been rumored before). An adjustable curve would be best since some games benefit more from using the sides for immersion (racing games, flight sims, etc) compared to RTS and some isometric games as well as deskop/app use and media playback.

The 48 CX 4k in 21:10 rez is pretty great for some games. If they made a 42" - 48" 4k 16:9 with a user adjustable curvature it would be a cool advancement though. Something like that would interest me but these other ones that have been rumored/leaked so far don't.

A dead end prototype curved OLED screen from years ago at CES:
417264_IlB5Ect.png

Now put several in a circle for a VR-like experience :LOL:

AR/Mixed reality glasses (or at least "goggles" slimmer than the shoe-box VR headsets) - for virtual screens in front of you and things like game hologram table areas or mapped onto real objects in real space using the glasses, etc. are still a little ways off resolution wise on most HMD brands, even in the rumored ones for the next gen. I think they'd need 8k *per eye* and be HDR( not 4k per eye SDR) so that they would be around 95 PPD at 1.3meter 4.25' focal distance virtually in the HMD before they'd really start to compete fidelity wise with ~4k desktop HDR screens. Varifocal lenses combined with foveated rendering could help a lot on 4k per eye ones though depending. 4k per eye on a ~ 100" virtual screen at 4.25' focal distance is only around ~48 PPD I think.
 
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kasakka

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The 48 CX 4k in 21:10 rez is pretty great for some games. If they made a 42" - 48" 4k 16:9 with a user adjustable curvature it would be a cool advancement though. Something like that would interest me but these other ones that have been rumored/leaked so far don't.
Yeah it's a good screen size but the lack of curvature is a bit of an issue as it would help when using an ultrawide resolution. LG has demoed an adjustable curve OLED in the past so the tech exists but whether it ever makes into any production display is a different question, let alone these smaller ones that I feel TV manufacturers still consider more of a side project to the bigger TVs.

What I really want is a <= 50" 8K version. That would solve any desktop space issues I have with the CX where I need 125% scaling for comfortable text size at my viewing distance. I could run 8K 60 Hz on the desktop and 1440p or 4K 120 Hz integere scaled for gaming.

Adding a secondary monitor has been unfeasible for me due to the space I have and how I want my rather big Genelec studio monitor speakers setup.
 

Nebell

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Any idea why my C1 every time I restart the PC is reverting to native 4k resolution and 60hz (won't go higher) instead of staying on PC 4k/120hz?
 

Rattle

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Sorry for dumb lazy question. Is this a good choice for PS5 ? Won't be used as a PC gaming monitor but probably for YouTube vids and similar.
 

celwin

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Sorry for dumb lazy question. Is this a good choice for PS5 ? Won't be used as a PC gaming monitor but probably for YouTube vids and similar.
I'm sure I'm in the minority here, but IMO it's best suited for exactly what you mentioned. Media consumption and games. In no way I want an oled tv for desktop pc use outside of games and media.
 

Rattle

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I'm sure I'm in the minority here, but IMO it's best suited for exactly what you mentioned. Media consumption and games. In no way I want an oled tv for desktop pc use outside of games and media.

As far as PS5 goes any issues with 4k 60/120fps ? Or HDR weirdness ?
 

ND40oz

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As far as PS5 goes any issues with 4k 60/120fps ? Or HDR weirdness ?

I have a C1 specifically for PS5/XBOX use, that's basically what it's made for. Upgraded from the B6 to the C1 once I finally got my hands on the new consoles. Haven't noticed any issues with either system, just do a firmware update as soon as you fire it up for the first time.
 

elvn

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As far as PS5 goes any issues with 4k 60/120fps ? Or HDR weirdness ?

Not exactly what you asked but here is some info to consider regarding VRR and autoHDR support.

This was a quote from when I was choosing between the sony oled vs the LG Oled for my living room:

..The rate and regularity that LG put out firmware updates and how well they delivered on their promises of features(and not just gaming ones) stands out in my mind. It's really unprecedented I think for TVs.
..The full boat of gaming features and them functioning with quality on the LG, which sony still doesn't have complete. I won't be gaming much if at all on the 77" at first but I might at some point with a windows box over the next few years and at this price why throw those features out the window.
...The fact the Sony dragged their feet for a year (so far)on delivering promised VRR, on their TVs and their PS5, looks very bad to me whether you are going to use it or not.
...The fact that sony is trying to lock autoHDR from their PS5 console to only their own Bravia TV line (and only the most modern bravia tvs at that) is a business practice I find abhorrent and can't support. It shows how they treat their customers. (Imagine if you couldn't get atmos/TrueHD surround off of a ps5 unless you have a sony receiver as your sound system for example). :mad: They make excuses that "only they know their tv's parameters" but the fact that xbox and windows11 auto HDR works on ANY HDR10 capable display (including sony's), using the HDR10 standard.. shows how false that is.

https://www.t3.com/us/news/ps5-gets-another-killer-graphics-upgrade-but-theres-a-huge-catch

Even if you had one of the latest bravia tvs in your living room or allowed yourself to being strong-armed into buying one for your PS5, you still wouldn't be able to get autoHDR at your pc's HDR display or any other HDR display you wanted to bring your PS5 to. Meanwhile modern xbox or win 11 gaming rigs do autoHDR on any HDR10 capable display.

Sony's promised PS5 VRR could be "any day now" but the firmware update history and delivery on promises is already really bad compared to LG's. I think it's been over a year without VRR they promised on both the PS5 and on their TVs. We'll see if it works properly and how fast they fix it to work properly, too. Imo sony treats their customers poorly historically.

--------------------------------
 

kasakka

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As far as PS5 goes any issues with 4k 60/120fps ? Or HDR weirdness ?
I have a C9 connected to my PS5. Early on I had an issue where it would have washed out image without toggling HDR on and off but I haven't seen this in a while so I expect that it is fixed in a software update for the PS5.

Otherwise smooth sailing. Don't have any games that run at 120 fps so haven't tested that.

In general my C9 has worked great with all the consoles we have (PS4, PS5, Switch).
 

equinox654

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Finally got around to building a desk that’s appropriate for my cx48. The main piece is 39x66 and the L is 24x48. Still gotta put a hole for wire routing. When I figure out where I want it.

Not quite 10k but was not cheap.
 

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lors

Weaksauce
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May 23, 2020
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Must be a great feeling when you have built something this nice with your bare.....FEET.
 

equinox654

Gawd
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
560
Must be a great feeling when you have built something this nice with your bare.....FEET.
LOL, I had shoes on for all of it. I went out to the garage real quick to see how the stain was coming out and snapped the picture :p
 
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elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
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Just a heads up in case anyone might be interested. The nvidia shield pro is on sale slightly at amazon, newegg, and bestbuy-via-ebay for ~ $180.

It's still not cheap but $20 off is something at least. Its interface is very quick even on resource hungry apps. It can play practically any format (incl DTS audio), and it has AI upscaling that works great among other features.

https://slickdeals.net/f/15496192-1...oid-streaming-media-player-black-180-free-s-h
 

equinox654

Gawd
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
560
Just a heads up in case anyone might be interested. The nvidia shield pro is on sale slightly at amazon, newegg, and bestbuy-via-ebay for ~ $180.
It's still not cheap but $20 off is something at least. Its interface is very quick even on resource hungry apps. It can play practically any format (incl DTS audio), and it has AI upscaling that works great among other features.

https://slickdeals.net/f/15496192-1...oid-streaming-media-player-black-180-free-s-h
Yeah it can also run 3rd party YouTube clients.
 
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elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
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Just a heads up in case anyone might be interested. The nvidia shield pro is on sale slightly at amazon, newegg, and bestbuy-via-ebay for ~ $180.

Yeah it can also run 3rd party YouTube clients.

Yep 👍.. and twitch clients , Google play store stuff and sideload apps. Act as a server, lightweight games, stream games from pc, gigabit ethernet port, usb 3 ports, etc. :geek:


edit: In the interest of full disclosure - the thing the current shields don't do is Youtube HDR b/c youtube requires a chip for that. If you need to see a HDR youtube clip you can always launch youtube on WebOS using the menu or the microphone button though. For me that is a very rare case. Other than a few HDR game videos I watched and some screensaver/demo HDR stuff, most of the HDR youtube channels like walking japan etc had a big persistent channel logo on them so I didn't really want to run those too much on the OLED anyway.
All of the other major paid streaming service's HDR content I use work just fine on the shield. I watch a lot of HDR content from services. It's mostly a youtube thing. YouTube uses a proprietary codec (VP9.2) for HDR content. This means that to be able to play VP9.2 content, consumer devices require an actual hardware decoder chip to be included in it.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VP9#Content_providers

Content providers​


A main user of VP9 is Google's popular video platform YouTube, which offers VP9 video at all resolutions[52] along with Opus audio in the WebM file format, through DASH streaming.

Another early adopter was Wikipedia (specifically Wikimedia Commons, which hosts multimedia files across Wikipedia's subpages and languages). Wikipedia endorses open and royalty-free multimedia formats.[53] As of 2016, the three accepted video formats are VP9, VP8 and Theora.[54]

Since December 2016, Netflix has used VP9 encoding for their catalog, alongside H.264 and HEVC. As of February 2020, AV1 has been started to be adopted for mobile devices, not unlike how VP9 has started on the platform.[55]

Google Play Movies & TV uses (at least in part) VP9 profile 2 with Widevine DRM.[56][57][58]

Stadia uses VP9 for video game streaming up to 4k on supported hardware like the Chromecast Ultra, supported mobile phones as well as computers.[59]
 
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Just a quick question. My remote started acting wonky. It will disappear, freeze and stutter. Any ideas how to fix? This started happening after the newest update.
 

Colonel Sanders

Supreme [H]ardness
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Sep 26, 2001
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5,373
How do these TVs (and the C1) look when running at 1440p? I realize it's not native and thus not ideal, but I'd be stuck running 1440p @ 120hz until I can upgrade to a HDMI 2.1 GPU sometime in the future. I'm not one who is insanely picky about scaling and I'm pretty sure it would look fine in games, but I dunno about desktop (non-productivity) use.
 

gamerk2

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
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Messages
1,968
How do these TVs (and the C1) look when running at 1440p? I realize it's not native and thus not ideal, but I'd be stuck running 1440p @ 120hz until I can upgrade to a HDMI 2.1 GPU sometime in the future. I'm not one who is insanely picky about scaling and I'm pretty sure it would look fine in games, but I dunno about desktop (non-productivity) use.
Its OK. I'm using (I think; at work right now) 125% DPI scaling with ClearType to clean up text, and it passes visual muster as far as I'm concerned.

Also waiting on a 30x0 series so I can crank up to 4k120.
 

kalston

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,335
How do these TVs (and the C1) look when running at 1440p? I realize it's not native and thus not ideal, but I'd be stuck running 1440p @ 120hz until I can upgrade to a HDMI 2.1 GPU sometime in the future. I'm not one who is insanely picky about scaling and I'm pretty sure it would look fine in games, but I dunno about desktop (non-productivity) use.

I played like that for a few months when I was stuck with my 1080 ti. IMO it looks quite good in games, the softness isn't horrible, it's pretty clean looking.

On the desktop I don't remember, I always just used 4k.
 

dpoverlord

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Nov 18, 2004
Messages
1,828
Have you tried turning it off and back on again? (kidding).

But seriously, have you tried any of these? (Assuming that you have tried the most obvious of them since you said "can't do anything").

...unplugging the adapter or hdmi cable and plugging it back in again without rebooting the PC? (crappy workaround though even if it ended up working)
...CTRL+ALT+DEL or CTRL+SHIFT+ESC ? (obvious)
...updated gpu drivers (obvious)
.. Another thing you could try is changing the scaling for that screen in the nvidia display settings to see if that does anything (try turning scaling off if it's not already, otherwise change it just to see if it does anything next time you exit a game).
...try messing with the physics on gpu settings (unlikely to do anything though)
..try a different output on the gpu
..turn off any gpu overclocking
... could try setting up a hotkey to a resolution switch or resolution switch toggle hotkey to see if it can kick it back to a visible desktop.
...if a single monitor setup instead of an array, you could set up a hotkey to switch between which output ("screen") is active and back to see if it does anything.
..remove the gpu from device manager and reboot so it gets found again.
..hook up another monitor to see if that monitor stays usable when the other goes black screen. Then at least you could potentially mess with settings and attempt to reinitialize the blacked out monitor with some changes to nvidia display settings, etc. during the same session.
..if you are already using multiple monitors, try disconnecting the other monitor(s) in the process of elimination and see what happens next time you exit a game.
...make sure the desktop is set to run the same resolution and the same Hz, etc. as the game in the process of elimination of causes.
...run the game in fullscreen windowed mode?

Are you using the club3d displayport adapter?
No Joke....

I have this same EXACT Issue. I just booted Halo Infinite and my theory is that it goes from Game mode to non game mode and just shuts down the monitor.

I can hear Voices, my my discord all sounds but I have a black screen.

NOTHING will get rid of my black screen except a reboot. Even if I use Team Viewer to login to the computer I have a black screen.

Has anyone fixed the issue of the LG TV losing its signal on the PC or when you are playing a BORDERLESS Full Screen the LG TV just goes Black / Blank and says "No Signal" I feel strongly it has to do with game mode, but there has to be a damn fix to this problem.
 

elvn

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
4,396
I've been focusing on HDR games so I have to play full screen exclusive. That didn't really come up when I did a full playthrough of Darksiders 3 (on max difficulty so it was like souls/sekiro like mechanics). I was using a 1080ti then and I don't use the displayport adapter. Your sig says 3090 though so idk.

Can you see if it happens when using more than one monitor? I'm wondering if the signal is lost or if you'd have to reinitialize your gpu to get it back.

I don't know if reinitializing the gpu while it's running could have any long term effects, wear and tear or not so use at your own risk:

https://www.howtogeek.com/351164/secret-windows-hotkey-restarts-your-graphics-card-drivers/

To restart your graphics drivers, press Win+Ctrl+Shift+B on your keyboard.

Your screen will go black for a split second and you’ll hear a beep. Everything will then reappear just as it was before you pressed the hotkey. All your current applications remain open, and you won’t lose any work.

We even tried this shortcut while playing a PC game. The game kept running properly after we used the shortcut. That’s because Windows just restarts the graphics subsystem. All your applications are left alone and will continue running normally.
 

Blackstone

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
3,368
I was going to get a 73 inch for my hybrid gaming/theater room, but I am coming from plasma and motion handling on the Sony is supposedly much better. So I am waiting for LG to catch up because I do want the best PQ. There’s no question the LG is the best screen for games and has the lowest latency but I want to have my cake and eat it too. The latency on the Sony is just too high.

Keep in mind what I’m talking about PQ I’m talking about for movies. I have a CX in my bedroom and plasma downstairs in the theater room. The older plasma definitely has better motion handling especially for older content. It also is a lag fest for games at like 16ms.

Does anyone know if LG improve motion handling with the C1 or if they plan on improving it in the next generation of TV?

For a dedicated gaming TV the C1 would be a no brainer I know how good it is but as my primary screen for serious movie watching I’m concerned it won’t make the cut.

My dad has the Sony and my jaw dropped when I saw how good it was.

First world problems.
 
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