LG 48CX

HiCZoK said:
on which one ? on cx, reviwes said 36 is 120nits

btw -anyone got tips how to use chrome? I already set windows to dark mode, autohide taskbar, 1minute blank screen saver and hide icons. But the bookmarks and top bar in chrome is still the last static element
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F11 for full screen will hide all the UI. I don't think you really need to go to such extreme measures though. But you could also just not use the bookmark bar and use something like a speed dial page instead ,or a completely different browser like Vivaldi that has all that built in and a much more efficient and customizable user interface etc.
 
So there seems to be so much on using this as a monitor.
Is there a comprehensive guide somewhere?

Also, with a 2080Ti, can I get 4k/120Hz VRR 4:4:4 with one of those DP to HDMI 2.1 adapters?
 
alxlwson said:
So there seems to be so much on using this as a monitor.
Is there a comprehensive guide somewhere?

Also, with a 2080Ti, can I get 4k/120Hz VRR 4:4:4 with one of those DP to HDMI 2.1 adapters?
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You can get all of that on a 2080Ti but not at the same time. You can get 4k/120hz 4:2:0 VRR no HDR or 4k/60hz 4:4:4 HDR VRR natively, or 4k/120hz 4:4:4 HDR no VRR with one of the adapters.
 
alxlwson said:
So there seems to be so much on using this as a monitor.
Is there a comprehensive guide somewhere?

Also, with a 2080Ti, can I get 4k/120Hz VRR 4:4:4 with one of those DP to HDMI 2.1 adapters?
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The ONLY way to get everything that the CX has to offer (at the same time) is either an RTX 3000 series or RX 6000 series GPU. HDMI 2.1 is the key.
 
madpistol said:
The ONLY way to get everything that the CX has to offer (at the same time) is either an RTX 3000 series or RX 6000 series GPU. HDMI 2.1 is the key.
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And it’s f’ing glorious.

The CX was really, really great with HDMI 2.0...but 2.1 is the way to fully unleash the beast. It’s amazing.
 
Hey guys,

After asking around and reading a lot in here, I got a 48" CX in September, and love it. I've been running at 4k@60Hz because my brain couldn't do numbers, and I thought I needed a 30xx with HDMI 2.1 to do 4k@120Hz until my friend pointed out I was an idiot that that's only for 4:4:4 content.

When I first swapped to 120Hz, all the text seemed blurry, but I found the fix of turning off pixel shift. But anything red is still weird, and I'm not sure what's going on with it. It's a pain to try and take a picture of, this is the best I can get. You can see the white text at the top is perfectly fine, but the red is 'crunchy' - look at the hash sign, and looks worse in real life. I run a multi monitor setup and this is the only display that it happens on. Is this something to do with what I've been reading about chroma subsampling in 4:2:2? I don't understand the modern display stuff in this much detail, but I'm trying to learn!
 
sdfg said:
Hey guys,

After asking around and reading a lot in here, I got a 48" CX in September, and love it. I've been running at 4k@60Hz because my brain couldn't do numbers, and I thought I needed a 30xx with HDMI 2.1 to do 4k@120Hz until my friend pointed out I was an idiot that that's only for 4:4:4 content.

When I first swapped to 120Hz, all the text seemed blurry, but I found the fix of turning off pixel shift. But anything red is still weird, and I'm not sure what's going on with it. It's a pain to try and take a picture of, this is the best I can get. You can see the white text at the top is perfectly fine, but the red is 'crunchy' - look at the hash sign, and looks worse in real life. I run a multi monitor setup and this is the only display that it happens on. Is this something to do with what I've been reading about chroma subsampling in 4:2:2? I don't understand the modern display stuff in this much detail, but I'm trying to learn!
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yes. this is chroma subsampling effect. It's not full rgb in order to acheive 120hz on hdmi 2.0

Btw - anyone with new c1 models yet?
My c1 keeps switching back my audio preset to game optimizer on every tv or pc restart. Super annoying
 
sdfg said:
Hey guys,

After asking around and reading a lot in here, I got a 48" CX in September, and love it. I've been running at 4k@60Hz because my brain couldn't do numbers, and I thought I needed a 30xx with HDMI 2.1 to do 4k@120Hz until my friend pointed out I was an idiot that that's only for 4:4:4 content.

When I first swapped to 120Hz, all the text seemed blurry, but I found the fix of turning off pixel shift. But anything red is still weird, and I'm not sure what's going on with it. It's a pain to try and take a picture of, this is the best I can get. You can see the white text at the top is perfectly fine, but the red is 'crunchy' - look at the hash sign, and looks worse in real life. I run a multi monitor setup and this is the only display that it happens on. Is this something to do with what I've been reading about chroma subsampling in 4:2:2? I don't understand the modern display stuff in this much detail, but I'm trying to learn!
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Is this noticable in games?
 
madpistol said:
The ONLY way to get everything that the CX has to offer (at the same time) is either an RTX 3000 series or RX 6000 series GPU. HDMI 2.1 is the key.
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So can I get 4k120 4:4:4 no vrr with the dongle?

I'm wondering if I made a mistake buying this without a 2.1 card.
 
I used my CX for a couple of weeks before you were kind enough to let me get your 3080 from EVGA and while the 3080 is better, the 2080ti really did a nice job in everything I used it for. I enjoyed gaming on it with the 2080ti more than on the Gsync ultrawide I had before it. I never tried it with a dongle, but I would suspect that would help even more. I would keep it until you get a 2.1 card, but if you are within the return window, you could always return it and re-buy it when you have a 2.1 card.
 
Hey all, thinking of getting a CX1. Have a 3080 to drive it. While it is my gaming box, I do a ton of work on it and I need razor sharp text - not only 444 obviously, but good IPS-like sharp text. Is the CX/CX1 good for this? I know the contrast alone will help, but without being able to see one in person, I hate to gamble. I also know there will probably be a lot of static image no-nos many hours of the day and am sort of preparing myself for a slight bit of burn-in. Anybody else been using theirs as a work monitor for many hours of the day?
 
Sorcerer_Tim said:
I used my CX for a couple of weeks before you were kind enough to let me get your 3080 from EVGA and while the 3080 is better, the 2080ti really did a nice job in everything I used it for. I enjoyed gaming on it with the 2080ti more than on the Gsync ultrawide I had before it. I never tried it with a dongle, but I would suspect that would help even more. I would keep it until you get a 2.1 card, but if you are within the return window, you could always return it and re-buy it when you have a 2.1 card.
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:)
I've been kicking myself for that today, lol.

How was the image quality? I assume 4:2:2 was what you could get at 4k120?
 
Brahmzy said:
Hey all, thinking of getting a CX1. Have a 3080 to drive it. While it is my gaming box, I do a ton of work on it and I need razor sharp text - not only 444 obviously, but good IPS-like sharp text. Is The CX/CX1 good for this? I know the contrast alone will help, but without being able to see one in person, I hate to gamble. I also know there will probably be a lot of static image no-nos many hours of the day and am sort of preparing myself for a slight bit of burn-in. Anybody else been using theirs as a work monitor for many hours of the day?
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If you have a Sam's nearby, they have them on display, as does Best Buy in the Magnolia area
 
alxlwson said:
If you have a Sam's nearby, they have them on display, as does Best Buy in the Magnolia area
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Good to know and yes on both. Wonder if I could get a browser up on one instead of the usual 1080p loops they run...
 
Brahmzy said:
Good to know and yes on both. Wonder if I could get a browser up on one instead of the usual 1080p loops they run...
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In magnolia at BB, they run proper 4k content. They'd probably let you bring in your laptop or something to try
 
alxlwson said:
:)
I've been kicking myself for that today, lol.

How was the image quality? I assume 4:2:2 was what you could get at 4k120?
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I think I could just get 4:2:0, but someone else can confirm. It was/is outstanding. I only noticed the red text issue in Star Wars The Old Republic, which I rarely play, but even then it was not distracting enough to make much of a difference.
 
Sorcerer_Tim said:
I think I could just get 4:2:0, but someone else can confirm. It was/is outstanding. I only noticed the red text issue in Star Wars The Old Republic, which I rarely play, but even then it was not distracting enough to make much of a difference.
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So, Diablo 3 should look amazing with all it's colors in Whimsydale? Lol
 
alxlwson said:
So can I get 4k120 4:4:4 no vrr with the dongle?

I'm wondering if I made a mistake buying this without a 2.1 card.
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I'm still running 4k ~57fps/Hz capped on 1080ti sc gpus since the 3090 stock is screwed well into this year. Having been used to most souls games and nioh1 only being capable of 60fps max I found my "Jedi: Fallen Order" playthrough (on jedi master with HUD removed) and my current progress on nioh2, both in HDR 4k very enjoyable. With my settings my frame rate isn't fluctuating enough that VRR is missed too much so running 57fps solid most of the time. So 'm not missing the VRR much at these frame rates but I am missing the 120hz that nioh 2 is capable of. The picture quality increase on per pixel emissive OLED with the ultra black depth and response time combined with the well implemented HDR on both of these games is well worth the tradeoff for now. Of course I didn't foresee this scalper/miner/supply drought and had $2k + ready for my 3080/90 of choice but it is what it is. As I related a few times in this thread I actually had a completed 3090 order at newegg that was canceled later that night by egg stating lack of stock.
 
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Brahmzy said:
Hey all, thinking of getting a CX1. Have a 3080 to drive it. While it is my gaming box, I do a ton of work on it and I need razor sharp text - not only 444 obviously, but good IPS-like sharp text. Is the CX/CX1 good for this? I know the contrast alone will help, but without being able to see one in person, I hate to gamble. I also know there will probably be a lot of static image no-nos many hours of the day and am sort of preparing myself for a slight bit of burn-in. Anybody else been using theirs as a work monitor for many hours of the day?
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The biggest issue reported about LG's OLEDs for work-related tasks is that text doesn't look as sharp as it does on an IPS panel. This is mainly because LG's OLED uses a WRGB subpixel matrix, while LCDs use RGB. This can cause artifacting on text when looking up close; if the text is pure white, only the white subpixel will be lit, while on a normal LCD screen, White = RGB lit. If you're a few feet away from the screen, you probably won't notice.

The best thing I can tell you is find one and test it out.

As for burn-in, I've been using mine for mixed use (work + gaming) for just a tick under 5000 hours with brightness set between 0-30 most of the time, and so far, burn-in has not been an issue. Just make sure you have a good screen saver so if you walk away, it will not maintain the static image.
 
Armenius said:
View attachment 344202

Source:
https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_cx_oled.htm#brightness

Since the C1 is basically unchanged from the CX the settings should be similar if you get one of those.
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I think these will depend on the individual display. I don't have a calibrator anymore (borrowed from previous workplace) but for me it measured about 120 nits at 20 brightness. If it was as low as 83 nits it would be too dim for me. I normally use a setting between 20-30.
 
madpistol said:
The biggest issue reported about LG's OLEDs for work-related tasks is that text doesn't look as sharp as it does on an IPS panel. This is mainly because LG's OLED uses a WRGB subpixel matrix, while LCDs use RGB. This can cause artifacting on text when looking up close; if the text is pure white, only the white subpixel will be lit, while on a normal LCD screen, White = RGB lit. If you're a few feet away from the screen, you probably won't notice.

The best thing I can tell you is find one and test it out.

As for burn-in, I've been using mine for mixed use (work + gaming) for just a tick under 5000 hours with brightness set between 0-30 most of the time, and so far, burn-in has not been an issue. Just make sure you have a good screen saver so if you walk away, it will not maintain the static image.
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I find that as long as you use some DPI scaling text rendering is not an issue. Obviously having more viewing distance helps too. I have worked on mine since last summer and no burn in so far.
 
sdfg said:
But anything red is still weird, and I'm not sure what's going on with it. It's a pain to try and take a picture of, this is the best I can get. You can see the white text at the top is perfectly fine, but the red is 'crunchy' - look at the hash sign, and looks worse in real life. I run a multi monitor setup and this is the only display that it happens on. Is this something to do with what I've been reading about chroma subsampling in 4:2:2?
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Brahmzy said:
Hey all, thinking of getting a CX1. Have a 3080 to drive it. While it is my gaming box, I do a ton of work on it and I need razor sharp text - not only 444 obviously, but good IPS-like sharp text. Is the CX/CX1 good for this?
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I would refer to the post I made back on page six regarding "Better Cleartype Tuner" - setting it to greyscale or disabling it altogether should solve the "color weirdness" and blurriness issues as long as you're OK with the increase in text aliasing due to effectively cutting the horizontal resolution of text to 33% (at least with 4:4:4 chroma; if/when 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 is used then greyscale or disabling cleartype altogether should actually improve the resolution).

Nintendo Maniac 64 said:
After reading through the discussion regarding WOLED sub-pixel arrangement and ClearType, I felt the need to dig out my ancient HardForum account just to share the following ClearType tweaking utility that IMO beats the pants off of Windows' built-in ClearType tuner since this even includes keep-it-simple-stupid toggles for full-pixel greyscale font anti-aliasing, RGB ClearType, BGR ClearType, and disabling ClearType and font anti-aliasing altogether:

Info: https://github.com/bp2008/BetterClearTypeTuner
Download: https://github.com/bp2008/BetterClearTypeTuner/releases
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There are a lot of repeat Q & A's in this thread as more people interested in buying are making inquiries. Which is fine but if you do a search on this thread for things like text, viewing distance, screensaver, burn in , burn-in etc you'd find most of the answers you are looking for.and people's opinions in the surrounding replies.

I wouldn't trust operating system screen savers.

From about one page back in this thread::

screen savers / avoiding static content where possible

https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/post-1044971422


----------------------
View distance vs. text quality and AA

https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/post-1044972495

20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)


Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle
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--------

WOLED contributes to text issues like others have said but if you are sitting closer than the 20/20 vision threshold your text/subsampling and graphics aliasing are going to be bad regardless to start with - requiring more aggressive attempts at cleartype work arounds and more aggressive AA in games just attempting to get back to what you'd be seeing at 33.5" to 48" away .
 
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Seyumi said:
The LG's are really weird with dead pixels. From my experience, it's not like normal LCD's. I've had multiple 55" LG OLED's, and the dead pixels just come and go at random. I usually find 1-2 dead pixels on my screen, then a few months later I look for them and they're no longer there, but there's 1-2 dead pixels somewhere else, and it just repeats somewhere else. From my experience with LCD's, when you get dead/stuck pixels, they're usually permanent (even with stupid pixel refreshing fixes), and if they're not already on your screen the first time you use it then you should be good to go in the long term. I'm usually very OCD about dead/stuck pixels, it's a 100% return on my part usually, but the screen is so large, and I sit so far back, and they usually go away anyway, that it truly doesn't bother me. Just my personal experience though.
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I took some more pics of this 1 dead pixel I have on c1.
It appears it's not the whole pixel dead. It's ok on blue or green but dead on red, magenta and white.
So maybe it's red and white sub pixel... no idea, the images I took on primary rtings colors only confuse me :p
I still don't find it reasonable to return the screen because 2 or 3 subpixels are not working... but I do notice it occasionally on sky or brighter colors and it's kinda annoying me

nuDGwiG.jpg
 
HiCZoK said:
I took some more pics of this 1 dead pixel I have on c1.
It appears it's not the whole pixel dead. It's ok on blue or green but dead on red, magenta and white.
So maybe it's red and white sub pixel... no idea, the images I took on primary rtings colors only confuse me :p
I still don't find it reasonable to return the screen because 2 or 3 subpixels are not working... but I do notice it occasionally on sky or brighter colors and it's kinda annoying me

View attachment 344628
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For the amount of money that these panels cost, I would return it.
 
alxlwson said:
For the amount of money that these panels cost, I would return it.
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I would but it's so much hassle to pack the tv back and wait for 2 weeks for money return so I can buy again elsewhere... and then get 3 dead pixels probably.
And the pixel is visible on reds and whites the most.
My buddy is getting the screen on tuesday. I will check pixels on his unit. If he has none, then I will return. The monitor is so good, I don't want to live few weeks without it again :p
And others said, the pixel might eventually maybe fix itself. Maybe I could run the full 1 hour refresher ?
 
I've been reading (and experiencing) the VRR flicker. Do you think it's something that would ever get worked out? Is it less noticeable at higher framerates? I was hoping on getting a 30xx for the proper 4:4:4 4k@120, but if the VRR flicker isn't going to get sorted it might be worth just sticking with vsync and get the adapter for 4:4:4 on my 2070S.
 
So glad I sold my c9 few days ago (no support from lg/amd for Vrr on c9) . Just before I bought heavily discounted 48cx today 48c1 showed up for pretty much the same price (immediately bought it). Here's me hoping actual c1 (and not CX) model shows up so I can be sure to receive firmware updates for next 2 years :) 55 was fine for couch viewing but up close I looked real funny over zoom meetings constantly turning my head for documents which were in 4 different corners of my screen.
 
Pabaisa said:
So glad I sold my c9 few days ago (no support from lg/amd for Vrr on c9) . Just before I bought heavily discounted 48cx today 48c1 showed up for pretty much the same price (immediately bought it). Here's me hoping actual c1 (and not CX) model shows up so I can be sure to receive firmware updates for next 2 years :) 55 was fine for couch viewing but up close I looked real funny over zoom meetings constantly turning my head for documents which were in 4 different corners of my screen.
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Where did you get a c1?
 
Nintendo Maniac 64 said:
Are you saying the "freesync over HDMI" EDID override trick no longer works, or doesn't work on newer GPUs (e.g. RX 6000 series)?

https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/g65mw7/working_freesync_mod_for_vrr_displays_tested_on/

(not that I guess you could test it since you've sold the C9 now...)
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At least EDID edit with previous version of CRU (CRU was updated recently) resulted in no signal received by LG C9 (as far as I'm aware it was the same for everybody else with 6000 series GPU, 120/60Hz, 4k, 1440p or 1080p made no difference) as display was detected by windows (LG just displayed no signal message) but I needed second screen (which I no longer have) to roll back changes made to EDID to disable freesync.
 
anyone figured out how to stop audio preset from changing to "game optimizer preset" every time pc is restarted and gsync detected?
The only solution aside from switching to my preferred preset (music) on each pc restart is do disable gsync in the TV or in Nvidia control panel.. but I love gsync
 
HiCZoK said:
anyone figured out how to stop audio preset from changing to "game optimizer preset" every time pc is restarted and gsync detected?
The only solution aside from switching to my preferred preset (music) on each pc restart is do disable gsync in the TV or in Nvidia control panel.. but I love gsync
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Is this only a problem with the new CX1?
 
HiCZoK said:
anyone figured out how to stop audio preset from changing to "game optimizer preset" every time pc is restarted and gsync detected?
The only solution aside from switching to my preferred preset (music) on each pc restart is do disable gsync in the TV or in Nvidia control panel.. but I love gsync
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I would assume it's a quirk of the C1 and maybe the Instant Game Response setting also causes this to happen. Try contacting LG and maybe they will fix it in a firmware update.

You can expect that a new iteration will have all kinds of annoyances. Some get fixed, others do not within the first 6 months or so.
 
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