LG 48CX

MistaSparkul

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Does anyone happen to know what the proper setting is on the brightness slider for HDR in Death Stranding Directors Cut for the CX? It's literally the only value you can adjust in HDR and it does not even specify what the nit values are, it's just a simple brightness slider that goes from 0-100. Man I really hate HDR gaming sometimes because without a fancy monitor to display heatmaps and nit values, we have no idea what correct settings are.
 

elvn

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Idk. The elden ring one has a slider for the max brightness of the display and another, separate, HDR brightness slider. It also has a saturation slider. Between all of those I'm able to get very good results either on a CX, C1, or my laptop's ~ 500nit peak (non-fald, non-OLED) screen. The laptop's quasi HDR in HDR mode looks better if I tone it down a little in order to avoid washing out areas of the screen too much since it's not side by side contrast like FALD or OLED. The highlight brightness and saturation~luminance/color volume gains are still very appreciable compared to SDR though. On the OLED I set elden ring's peak slider to around 800 peak and the laptop to around 500peak, then further adjust game's HDR brightness setting and HDR saturation settings separately.

Unfortunately not all HDR games offer the same amount of controls or settings. I don't think a single adjustment slider would be adequate. If you use CRU to set your screen's peak in windows that would take care of one missing slider though.

I did find this though in case it might help you:

Death Stranding - Adjusting HDR Settings

(idk if that list is accurate but that's what the vid claims)

IZ6f2Xj.jpg


. . . . . . . . . . .

HDR and Brightness: Death Stranding


Those are PS5 and there is definitely some disagreement in the comments between HGiG 's lack of brightness vs DTM but also DTM being inaccurate and losing detail due to compression.

That's why it would have probably been better had the dev's included HDR peak screen brightness, HDR brightness, and HDR saturation settings in the game so you could adjust that to your liking in HGiG instead of having an either/or situation in HGiG or DTM at wherever they decided to have them.

. . . . . . . .

CRU.exe seems like the best way to set your peak brightness setting for any particular HDR monitor to start with so that windows won't default to 4000nit or whatever. You could experiment with changing your actual OLED screen's OSD settings as a work-around though. You can adjust a different named HDR mode (in low latency mode / with all of the extended tv features turned off) in HGiG mode.

Set up one extra named HDR mode to adjust for problematic games. Adjust that HDR mode's OSD settings to the same as the HDR picture mode's OSD settings to start with. Then adjust the other mode's HDR brightness and Color settings (along with any extended sub-menus) in the OSD.

I pasted this pic again but you could try it on a different HDR picture mode than GAME to use as a workspace/testing ground in order to tweak your settings. Be sure to turn off all of the interpolation and other extended TV settings and anything dynamic on that mode. If you find that other mode has a little more input lag in game even with every extra tv processing feature turned off, you could write down those adjusted mode settings and then adjust your regular Game HDR Picture Mode settings to those you've decided on.

Write down your regular Game HDR picture mode settings you'd been using before messing with them if you've changed them from the defaults previously and don't want to lose them. This allows you to go back to the other named HDR mode(s) to play around with adjustments without losing what the HDR game mode is set to. Usually you don't want to go too crazy but I definitely upped the Color setting in the regular game mode (the SDR one for SDR games that don't support autoHDR). Most of the HDR games I play look great so I haven't had to mess with anything outside of the game's own settings. I try to prioritize well-implemented HDR games so I'm very happy that Elden Ring has enough adjustments to make it look great. Jedi Fallen Order, Nioh2, Fenyx, Pathfinder, and AC-Odyssey all look great also.

618610_NWuFr2P.png
 
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GoldenTiger

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Boom, the 42 C2 is out now. For higher msrp than I grabbed a 65C1 last week! I’m still happy with my 48CX but when these drop to 800-900 in a year I’ll probably grab one.
Looking forward to the 42" c2 hitting $700 to 800 myself. When you can buy a 55" c1 for $1k I expect nothing close to that for the 42 (https://slickdeals.net/f/15709150-5...rd-1097-free-s-h-at-buydig-less-w-sd-cashback). These deals are pretty consistent at end of model year time for the oled tv's. Their initial ask for the 42 c2 is just too high for what it is.
 

jbltecnicspro

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So I'm thinking about going all out and just getting a C1 or another OLED TV in the 55 inch range. It would replace a plasma I picked up cheap last year. Question - does anyone here have experience with OLED TV's and their BFI and can compare with a plasma TV? Even if it's the same I would want it. Also - is there a site out there that actually rates TV's BFI implementations? RTings states whether or not the TV has it, and if it 's single or double strobe. For OLED this is perfect because there's no cross-talk. For LCD this is different because cross-talk can come into play. Blurbusters is out there, sure, but they seem to only be interested in PC monitors and not TV's.

Also - I have old tech and can't really push 4K unless running older titles. I assume that 1080p is integer scaled on these displays? I plan on plugging in a Switch, Wii-U, older PC. Probably running 1080p most of the time. Hopefully at 120hz for the PC titles that support it.
 

ND40oz

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Looking forward to the 42" c2 hitting $700 to 800 myself. When you can buy a 55" c1 for $1k I expect nothing close to that for the 42 (https://slickdeals.net/f/15709150-5...rd-1097-free-s-h-at-buydig-less-w-sd-cashback). These deals are pretty consistent at end of model year time for the oled tv's. Their initial ask for the 42 c2 is just too high for what it is.

The problem is it's not that much cheaper to manufacture the 42 than the 55. The only difference is the actual panel, it's like why a 1TB Barracuda and 2TB Barracuda only differ in price by $1.50.
 

MistaSparkul

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So I'm thinking about going all out and just getting a C1 or another OLED TV in the 55 inch range. It would replace a plasma I picked up cheap last year. Question - does anyone here have experience with OLED TV's and their BFI and can compare with a plasma TV? Even if it's the same I would want it. Also - is there a site out there that actually rates TV's BFI implementations? RTings states whether or not the TV has it, and if it 's single or double strobe. For OLED this is perfect because there's no cross-talk. For LCD this is different because cross-talk can come into play. Blurbusters is out there, sure, but they seem to only be interested in PC monitors and not TV's.

Also - I have old tech and can't really push 4K unless running older titles. I assume that 1080p is integer scaled on these displays? I plan on plugging in a Switch, Wii-U, older PC. Probably running 1080p most of the time. Hopefully at 120hz for the PC titles that support it.

I haven't had a plasma since my 2011 Panasonic but from my memory, plasma is better at 60Hz because OLED is just too flickery at that low of a refresh rate with BFI enabled. But the CX/C1 can do BFI at 120Hz and that's when it destroys plasma in motion clarity because now you have the combination of no sample and hold + 120Hz. 1080p is not integer scaled on this TV, you have to set your nvidia control panel/AMD radeon settings to GPU scaling and then enabled integer scaling if you want that.
 

GoldenTiger

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The problem is it's not that much cheaper to manufacture the 42 than the 55. The only difference is the actual panel, it's like why a 1TB Barracuda and 2TB Barracuda only differ in price by $1.50.
Oh, I know.... But it can't be $400 more ;).
 

kasakka

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So I'm thinking about going all out and just getting a C1 or another OLED TV in the 55 inch range. It would replace a plasma I picked up cheap last year. Question - does anyone here have experience with OLED TV's and their BFI and can compare with a plasma TV? Even if it's the same I would want it. Also - is there a site out there that actually rates TV's BFI implementations? RTings states whether or not the TV has it, and if it 's single or double strobe. For OLED this is perfect because there's no cross-talk. For LCD this is different because cross-talk can come into play. Blurbusters is out there, sure, but they seem to only be interested in PC monitors and not TV's.

Also - I have old tech and can't really push 4K unless running older titles. I assume that 1080p is integer scaled on these displays? I plan on plugging in a Switch, Wii-U, older PC. Probably running 1080p most of the time. Hopefully at 120hz for the PC titles that support it.
BFI on my CX 48" is really only useful for SDR content. HDR loses all its highlights. Even for SDR content it is only just bright enough. The main reason I don't use BFI is that it's inconvenient to toggle on/off on this model as the setting is buried pretty deep. I felt it gave some motion clarity advantages vs without using it but at least for me it's not a particularly important feature. If I was playing a lot of multiplayer shooters I'd probably use it more but most games I play these days support HDR.
 

jbltecnicspro

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Thanks for the replies. My understanding is that at 60hz, the C1 isn’t as clear as CX. It has 8ms of MPRT, which is around what plasma is. So it shouldn’t flicker as much as the CX and should be brighter (at the cost of clarity). C1 and CX should be identical at 120hz though.
 

whateverer

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Wait for prices to stabilize this summer and it'll be marginally cheaper than the its larger C2 siblings. I doubt it gets down to $700, would be nice though.
He's talking about stock clearances (the C148 just dropped below $1000 for the first time:

https://www.amazon.com/LG-OLED48C1P...id=1647571106&sprefix=c1+,aps,113&sr=8-3&th=1

You need to have a noticeable price differential when clearing stock (or most folks will just buy the much larger panel for slightly more money!) But this also means that any stock clearance of the 42" model will drop to around $700 to $800!
 

ND40oz

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He's talking about stock clearances (the C148 just dropped below $1000 for the first time:

https://www.amazon.com/LG-OLED48C1PUB-Alexa-Built-Smart/dp/B08WFK81RH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?tag=hardfocom-20&ascsubtag=ddfbdc1ca90411eca88a728b6ce44b6a0INT&crid=1NF3N7S7BPYWD&keywords=c1+oled+48&qid=1647571106&sprefix=c1+,aps,113&sr=8-3&th=1

You need to have a noticeable price differential when clearing stock (or most folks will just buy the much larger panel for slightly more money!) But this also means that any stock clearance of the 42" model will drop to around $700 to $800!

He's comparing closeout C1 prices to potential 42" C2 closeout pricing.

Looking forward to the 42" c2 hitting $700 to 800 myself. When you can buy a 55" c1 for $1k I expect nothing close to that for the 42 (https://slickdeals.net/f/15709150-5...rd-1097-free-s-h-at-buydig-less-w-sd-cashback). These deals are pretty consistent at end of model year time for the oled tv's. Their initial ask for the 42 c2 is just too high for what it is.

This time next year, the closeout pricing of the 42" and 48" C2s won't have much of a difference because the manufacturing costs differences aren't that great. You're seeing that now with the 48" and 55" C1s and their closeout pricing with them both hovering around $1000 for the TV when you look at the additional incentives being thrown in.
 
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Yo, does the C1 48" have this problem:
Yes, if you have VRR enabled your frame rate is fluctuating a lot you'll see this.

Here's a severe case where my C1 was flashing every time I moved my mouse in RE2. My frame rate was tanking whenever I moved the mouse. Dropping the mouse polling rate fixed it.

 
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Surly

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Yes, if you have VRR enabled your frame rate is fluctuating a lot you'll see this.

Here's a severe case where my C1 was flashing every time I moved my mouse in RE2. My frame rate was tanking whenever I moved the mouse. Dropping the DPI fixed it.



Im trying to understand this VRR flicker a little more in order to set my expectations if I purchase an OLED display (dell monitor or LG TV)...

What level of frame fluctuations produces this flicker? Like does this only occur with extreme fluctuations (like say from 100 or 120 down to 40 or 50) or is this normal even with mild/moderate fluctuations (like 100 or 120 down to 75-80)?
 

elvn

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I think it's more noticeable in some games than others and not just because of the frame rate fluctuation. For example in his video the game appears to be paused with a pause menu pulled up including a "return to game" heading. He's just moving a mouse cursor around. That cursor movement should be max fps at all times like the desktop in that scenario I'd think? He said when he moved the mouse his framerate tanked though which sounds strange to me. It's not even moving the viewport around in the youtube video and nothing on screen is actively moving or changing besides the cursor. Something strange is going on there. It seems more like near black flickering due to WOLED rather than VRR in that case, where the frame of the mouse cursor is bright/white.

There are a lot of different rendering methods in games too, plus HDR gaming rather than SDR and even with HDR there are usually ways to change the whitepoint, gamma, HDR peak brightness, HDR overall brightness.


There are different issues like this one:

LG 65 CX black flickering non VRR​

renderTimingPixel.png


Tech Support
I've seen a few posts but none that have resolved my issue. I recently watched 2 movies on Netflix and in the dark scenes there send to be a black flickering occurring. Any suggestions for settings to fix this? I've played around with brightness, motion blur, noise reduction etc. But bugging send to help.
Update 8/5/21: Appreciate all the help on this. It seems the issue was with appleTV 4k. The solution was to manually update from tvOS 14.6 to tvOS 14.7. After doing this the flicker in Netflix movies went away. Also, when I had tvOS 14.6 I was able to get the issue to go away by reducing the brightness to 52 or below. I did not see any issues with Chromecast Google TV Netflix or when watching a 4k disc in my Xbox SeriesX.

Stock-Freedom
· 8 mo. ago

It’s absolutely Netflix. The low quality streams cause the low light near blacks to be literally flickering boxes. If you pump up the black levels, you can see that it’s huge macro artifact blocking from awful compression. It makes the screen to overreact to compensate.
Throw in a 4K Blu Ray of the exact same content and you won’t see it at all.
.
So maybe RE2 is doing something strange resolution wise with the mouse curor or backgrounds or something idk.
 
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So maybe RE2 is doing something strange resolution wise with the mouse curor or backgrounds or something idk.
Oh believe me it's bizarre. Happens in any RE engine game for me. Moving the mouse puts a heavy load on the game and frame rate drops by 15-20 fps. It stabilizes the instant I stop moving my mouse. Good news is that I fixed it by lowering the mouse polling rate from 1000Hz to something like 250Hz. RE just doesn't seem to like high mouse polling rates, at least not on my hardware.

This video shows 119 fps stable with no mouse movement. Once I start moving my mouse, it drops as low as 102 fps.

 
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elvn

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Oh believe me it's bizarre. Happens in any RE engine game for me. Moving the mouse puts a heavy load on the game and frame rate drops by 15-20 fps. It stabilizes the instant I stop moving my mouse. Good news is that I fixed it by lowering the mouse polling rate from 1000Hz to something like 250Hz. RE just doesn't seem to like high mouse polling rates, at least not on my hardware.

This video shows 119 fps stable with no mouse movement. Once I start moving my mouse, it drops as low as 102 fps.



From what I can find online at a glance people recommend using a controller for those games. They say even WASD or whatever movement keys you use won't dip the frame rate, only the mouse/mouse cursor does so it's something wacky with their game engine and the mouse.

Some other post claimed it doesn't happen on linux with the mouse either.. that he used https://lutris.net/ but I have no exp with using that.
 

SoCali

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The brightness/gamma increasing whenever there is camera movement with VRR is present and visible but it's extremely minor. I would have to point it out up close to most people for them to even spot it. There is also very minor overshoot from really really dark shades but again, it requires pixel peeping to spot.

The guy above's video is literally zoomed in to hell and it's still hard to tell.

As for the flicker, it never occurs for me in actual gameplay. I don't count menus or loading screens because flicker occurs there even on Gsync module equipped LCD monitors.

TBH I think most people online and Vincent from HDTV test blow this whole flicker thing out of proportion especially Vincent because the CX/C1's competitor (QN90B) exhibits flicker galore and he seems to fixate on said menus/loading screens. Don't use a potato CPU or go give any other VRR capable LCD a try and get back to me on how prominent flicker is across VRR monitors as a whole.

The raised blacks/gamma is IMO the only real legitimate concern.
 
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MistaSparkul

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In 2 more months I will be at 2 years of CX ownership and the VRR flickering has not been a huge problem for me the entire time. Yes it does flicker during loading screens and sometimes menus but during actual gameplay it hasn't bothered me enough.
 

Colonel Sanders

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so i should've tried this sooner, but i connected my c1 to my old el cheapo Yamaha receiver with an optical cable, then changed the audio device type in my ps5's settings to AVR, 5.1 channel, and DTS for the format, and now i get to use my surround sound properly with my ps5 instead of being stuck using either headphones or craptastic tv speakers. thankfully my receiver has two optical inputs so i can still leave my pc/soundblaster z plugged, i just have to switch inputs on the receiver as well as the tv. too bad you can't get DTS encoded directly out of the video card so i could just use one input.
In 2 more months I will be at 2 years of CX ownership and the VRR flickering has not been a huge problem for me the entire time. Yes it does flicker during loading screens and sometimes menus but during actual gameplay it hasn't bothered me enough.
it really depends on the game though. most of the games i play are like that where the flicker mainly appears only in loading screens or menus, but there are some where it becomes an unplayable distraction (euro truck simulator 2/american truck simulator are an example.)
 

Advil

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I think it was another forum that put me on to how to watch actual DV HDR videos... put them on a usb stick and plug it into the TV itself. The TV's player plays them perfectly. This does stick me with the TV's speakers when I do that rather than my Logitech Z5500 and Klipsch fronts for 7.1... I wonder if the ancient 5.1 decoder in the ancient Z5500 still works on modern rips? I could try the optical cable from the TV and see what happens.

But frankly, the TV speakers on the CX are really not bad in a small office. Not bad at all.
 

elvn

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The shARC box can take hdmi 2.1 eARC output and break it down to spdif optical or an hdmi output that can go to any hdmi input on an older receiver (just don't connect that to any arc port, it has to connect as if it is a just a regular input device). It's gone up in price since I got it though so it's not cheap at $188 currently. You could put that money toward an eARC receiver instead. However the sharc does allow for some flexibility, swapping around between different hardware in the future, and use with existing setups. I have an older 7.1 (incl atmos) receiver without hdmi 2.1 eARC sound and it's bandwidth so it worked out for me, running eARC out from the LG OLED to the sharc and then out a hdmi input on my receiver. It basically adds a hdmi 2.1 earc port to an older receiver. It also breaks down the eARC output of any tv to spidif optical or rca~stereo L/R, headphone outputs for those usage scenarios.



SHARCSIDE.png


shtop4_1000.png

I think it was another forum that put me on to how to watch actual DV HDR videos... put them on a usb stick and plug it into the TV itself. The TV's player plays them perfectly. This does stick me with the TV's speakers when I do that rather than my Logitech Z5500 and Klipsch fronts for 7.1... I wonder if the ancient 5.1 decoder in the ancient Z5500 still works on modern rips? I could try the optical cable from the TV and see what happens.

But frankly, the TV speakers on the CX are really not bad in a small office. Not bad at all.


Spdif/Optical won't sound horrible or anything but it won't have the full bandwidth of hdmi 2.1 uncompressed hdmi audio streams.

hdmi-earc-chart-arrow-5b661d8846e0fb002571eebe.jpg
 
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Advil

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Well, there's something I never considered. Time for some more reading on this. Thanks.
 

Colonel Sanders

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cool, today i found out that you can in fact output true dolby surround from a pc connected to a c1 via hdmi and from the tv to a receiver via optical out. you just have to install the free 'dolby access' app from MS Store, and then you can select "Dolby Atmos" in the sound control panel app and configure speaker layout etc. at first i had occasional issues with buzzing sounds but that was solved by changing the digital out format in the TV's advanced sound settings to pass through. even though my old Yamaha receiver is wayyy too old for Atmos, everything gets picked up as Dolby and sounds beautiful. also, there is virtually no audio processing lag than i can detect. if there is any, it's even less than what my Soundblaster Z was doing.

i took the SB Z out of my PC, no more need for it :cool:
 

kasakka

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In light of the eARC stuff, I'd also like to remind people that you will be hard pressed to hear any real difference between e.g SPDIF or eARC sound quality unless you have an audio system that can actually deliver, preferably room corrected too. I know my living room setup is not good enough so I'm using SPDIF from the TV into a 10 years old Denon AV receiver and two Magnat Quantum stereo speakers + BK XLS200 subwoofer.

It works fine but I do want to replace it with a proper HDMI 2.1 receiver after I move next month. These had a lot of issues in the past few years with e.g gaming, 120 Hz etc but does anyone know if they have managed to solve those and bring something good to market?
 

whateverer

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I think it was another forum that put me on to how to watch actual DV HDR videos... put them on a usb stick and plug it into the TV itself. The TV's player plays them perfectly. This does stick me with the TV's speakers when I do that rather than my Logitech Z5500 and Klipsch fronts for 7.1... I wonder if the ancient 5.1 decoder in the ancient Z5500 still works on modern rips? I could try the optical cable from the TV and see what happens.

But frankly, the TV speakers on the CX are really not bad in a small office. Not bad at all.


You can connect your speakers overt optical out using a dac/receiver (you just need o adjust the volume on the speakers)

Been doing simultaneous output for years with my b7 (turn on speakers when you just want music/watching a musical.)

The combined output is good for poorly-mastered movies that need a little extra dialog bump
 
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Lateralus

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So we're roughly 2 years in and guys I've gotta say I continue to be blown away by this monitor. Truly the best one I've ever had and I don't see how it gets any better compared to other options on the market, currently. I disabled ASBL using the service remote and with the auto-dimming now gone it is now not just incredible for gaming and movies but desktop use as well. Any brightness or burn-in concerns are way overplayed IMO and haven't been an issue for me at all. I'd buy this thing again in a heartbeat. I hope the features that were removed from the C2 lineup (namely the removal of BFI @ 120Hz) aren't indicative of the direction that LG intends to go in the future, but that won't affect everyone as not everyone uses BFI (including me, most of the time). More options is better, and this thing has plenty.
 

elvn

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So we're roughly 2 years in and guys I've gotta say I continue to be blown away by this monitor. Truly the best one I've ever had and I don't see how it gets any better compared to other options on the market, currently. I disabled ASBL using the service remote and with the auto-dimming now gone it is now not just incredible for gaming and movies but desktop use as well. Any brightness or burn-in concerns are way overplayed IMO and haven't been an issue for me at all. I'd buy this thing again in a heartbeat. I hope the features that were removed from the C2 lineup (namely the removal of BFI @ 120Hz) aren't indicative of the direction that LG intends to go in the future, but that won't affect everyone as not everyone uses BFI (including me, most of the time). More options is better, and this thing has plenty.

The QD-OLEDs have higher color volume heights so more and brighter crayons shades in the crayonbox. They also resolve color a bit differently in greens and reds on the horizontal color map so it's a little wider. Both techs are OLED though so have per pixel side by side contrast with "infinite" black depth. There is always something better around the corner every few years but contrary to what some people are saying, LG OLED vs QD-OLED, while a very good step up to HDR 10 (1000+) and higher sustained in HDR from HDR 600 - 800 of the LG OLEDs and better bright room viewing -- is not "like a TN compared to an OLED".

I'm very happy with my 48CX. So much so that when my 70" 2015 Vizio M died we sprung for a 77" C1 in the living room (we didn't want to downsize to 65" and there are no 70" models). There's no way I'm upgrading the C1 for years yet, I just got it before xmas for around $3300. I might upgrade the 48CX in the next few years if the price was right, as it would be much less costly at that size than the living room display. I'm in no rush though. I still grin every time I see fire or other light source in a dark scene and I still remember the first time I saw the reflectivity of people's eyes on a (large) OLED display.
 
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MistaSparkul

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So we're roughly 2 years in and guys I've gotta say I continue to be blown away by this monitor. Truly the best one I've ever had and I don't see how it gets any better compared to other options on the market, currently. I disabled ASBL using the service remote and with the auto-dimming now gone it is now not just incredible for gaming and movies but desktop use as well. Any brightness or burn-in concerns are way overplayed IMO and haven't been an issue for me at all. I'd buy this thing again in a heartbeat. I hope the features that were removed from the C2 lineup (namely the removal of BFI @ 120Hz) aren't indicative of the direction that LG intends to go in the future, but that won't affect everyone as not everyone uses BFI (including me, most of the time). More options is better, and this thing has plenty.

It gets better by upgrading from W-OLED to QD-OLED. Once Samsung makes a size around 48-50" I'll be upgrading my CX.
 

kasakka

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So we're roughly 2 years in and guys I've gotta say I continue to be blown away by this monitor. Truly the best one I've ever had and I don't see how it gets any better compared to other options on the market, currently. I disabled ASBL using the service remote and with the auto-dimming now gone it is now not just incredible for gaming and movies but desktop use as well. Any brightness or burn-in concerns are way overplayed IMO and haven't been an issue for me at all. I'd buy this thing again in a heartbeat. I hope the features that were removed from the C2 lineup (namely the removal of BFI @ 120Hz) aren't indicative of the direction that LG intends to go in the future, but that won't affect everyone as not everyone uses BFI (including me, most of the time). More options is better, and this thing has plenty.
Agreed. I would prefer a smaller display but have been pretty ok with the CX 48" as long as it's mounted at least 1m away. I'm looking forward to reading TFTCentral's review of the 42" model, might end up selling my CX and swapping to that.
 

Colonel Sanders

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5,409
my c1 continues to blow me away, in both picture quality and features. it's so nice having stuff like the optical out and ARC/eARC support which is stuff that regular PC monitors usually don't have, and that's icing on the cake with the amazing picture quality. i still can't get over what it's like having blacks be true black. it is so important for movies and gaming.

also, i'm on the 48", and i could already see myself upgrading to the 55" or even 65" with some desk and seating adjustment (my c1 is wall mounted and i have a small lightweight desk for regular/work use and i can easily swap it with my sim racing/flight sim rig - the TV just stays where it is. it's a very cool setup if i do say so myself :D
 

gamerk2

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
2,033
For what it's worth, rtings has the full G2 review up and early access for the C2 (which should be up in a few days).
 

madpistol

Gawd
Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
972
The LG G2 got a stellar review from RTINGS. Very tempted to replace my Samsung Q90R with this TV due to support for eARC and Dolby Vision.

I'm very interested in the Samsung SN95B QD-OLED, but not having support for Dolby Vision in 2022 is a huge deal breaker for me. Dolby Vision makes a massive difference in streaming services that support HDR, one that the Q90R can't match using HDR10.
 

MistaSparkul

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
2,406
The LG G2 got a stellar review from RTINGS. Very tempted to replace my Samsung Q90R with this TV due to support for eARC and Dolby Vision.

I'm very interested in the Samsung SN95B QD-OLED, but not having support for Dolby Vision in 2022 is a huge deal breaker for me. Dolby Vision makes a massive difference in streaming services that support HDR, one that the Q90R can't match using HDR10.

IMO I feel like the superior hardware in the S95B would look better than the LG G2 with Dolby Vision. Could be wrong though.
 
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