LG 48CX

Checked for the 48" C1 at BB.com and Amazon, both said they were sold out.

So I guess they're released but sold out?
 
Sky15 said:
Checked for the 48" C1 at BB.com and Amazon, both said they were sold out.

So I guess they're released but sold out?
Click to expand...
No, they have not yet been released. According to the LG rep on Best Buy it will be mid- to late-April, so look out for them in the next couple weeks.

EDIT: Scratch that, it's now available to buy directly from LG in the US. Meaning we should see them at retailers beginning next week.
https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-oled48c1pub-oled-4k-tv
 
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Nintendo Maniac 64 said:
Does this by any chance work with the usual USB ethernet adapter(s) that people use to get a ~300mbps wired connection?
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Hiya, that is untested. I think it will depend on the ability of the adapter to stay powered on at all times and accept wake-on-lan packets. If this is not the case then a possible solution/workaround is to keep the wifi-adapter or the built in ethernet adapter connected simultaneously. Happy to get some input from anyone who's done the testing.
 
mirkendargen said:
Great work! The power off seems solid but powering on doesn't seem to be working for me (even when a pixel refresh isn't running).
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Thanks! From your description it sounds like the PC can communicate via the network with the TV, since it can be powered off. But seeing that the PC cannot power on the TV it seems most probably the error is either 1) the TV is not configured to accept wake-on-lan (so called "magic packets", 2) the network discards the magic packets or 3) the PC does not send the magic packets. The below is a copy paste from some relevant parts of the documetnation if you want to verify/check.

  • Ensure that the TV can be woken via the network. For the CX line of displays this is accomplished by navigating to Settings (cog button on remote)->All Settings->Connection->Mobile Connection Management->TV On with Mobile and enable 'Turn On via Wi-Fi'.
  • Open the administrative interface of your router, and set a static DHCP lease for your WebOS devices, i.e. to ensure that the displays always have the same IP-address on your LAN.
If your display has trouble powering on, these are the things to check first:
  • When connecting the TV via Wi-Fi it seems some users must enable "Quickstart+" and disable "HDD Eco mode" to avoid the NIC becoming inactive. (physical network cable does not seem to need this)
  • Ensure the network is not dropping WOL-broadcasts.
  • The MAC-address configuration for the device in the application is erroneous.
Also,
  • The TV cannnot be on a different subnet/VLAN from your PC. This is because the TV is powerd on by means of broadcasting a magic packet, aka Wake-on-lan, which is restricted to layer 2, i.e. same subnet only.
Let me know how it goes please and if the above does not solve the issue, please enable the log function in the settings and upload the full log to pastebin or in a PM here and I'll help troubleshoott further.

Kind regards
 
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Anyone ever find a mount for this TV (wall or desk) that works well with a standing desk that has up/down positions?
 
leadc4ge said:
Thanks! From your description it sounds like the PC can communicate via the network with the TV, since it can be powered off. But seeing that the PC cannot power on the TV it seems most probably the error is either 1) the TV is not configured to accept wake-on-lan (so called "magic packets", 2) the network discards the magic packets or 3) the PC does not send the magic packets. The below is a copy paste from some relevant parts of the documetnation if you want to verify/check.

  • Ensure that the TV can be woken via the network. For the CX line of displays this is accomplished by navigating to Settings (cog button on remote)->All Settings->Connection->Mobile Connection Management->TV On with Mobile and enable 'Turn On via Wi-Fi'.
  • Open the administrative interface of your router, and set a static DHCP lease for your WebOS devices, i.e. to ensure that the displays always have the same IP-address on your LAN.
If your display has trouble powering on, these are the things to check first:
  • When connecting the TV via Wi-Fi it seems some users must enable "Quickstart+" and disable "HDD Eco mode" to avoid the NIC becoming inactive. (physical network cable does not seem to need this)
  • Ensure the network is not dropping WOL-broadcasts.
  • The MAC-address configuration for the device in the application is erroneous.
Also,
  • The TV cannnot be on a different subnet/VLAN from your PC. This is because the TV is powerd on by means of broadcasting a magic packet, aka Wake-on-lan, which is restricted to layer 2, i.e. same subnet only.
Let me know how it goes please and if the above does not solve the issue, please enable the log function in the settings and upload the full log to pastebin or in a PM here and I'll help troubleshoott further.

Kind regards
Click to expand...
Yeah I suspected it might be related to Quickstart+ being disabled. I have that disabled to prevent the bug with pixel shift turning itself on at random. I'll test and verify.
 
mirkendargen said:
Yeah I suspected it might be related to Quickstart+ being disabled. I have that disabled to prevent the bug with pixel shift turning itself on at random. I'll test and verify.
Click to expand...
Nothing random about it. Pixel shift will turn itself back on if you turn off the TV and turn it back on again with Quickstart+ enabled. The UI does not reflect this and seems LG just can't be bothered to fix this bug.

Personally I just leave pixel shift on as it no longer causes blurriness issues at 120 Hz and I don't care too much if it cuts off a tiny slice of the screen.
 
MistaSparkul said:
For anyone interested, Gigabyte is releasing a 48" OLED monitor likely based off of the CX panel: https://www.aorus.com/monitors/4k

View attachment 347293
Click to expand...
Here is a recent article about this monitor
https://www.techtimes.com/articles/...-oled-display-and-why-its-good-for-gaming.htm

I started a new thread on it.

There is something very confusing though. The article says this:

The Aorus Gigabyte 4K monitors are really making waves and for those that might not need the massive 48-inch gaming monitor, there is an option for the smaller 32-inch monitor available with the same high-powered specs expected. Although the prices haven't been revealed, normally, a smaller monitor would be more affordable.
For gamers that might not need the massive 48-inch gaming monitor, the smaller 43-inch gaming monitor and the 32-inch gaming monitor could be a better pick

But when I go to the Gigabyte page for the 43" version (the only model with a webpage, the other models say "coming soon", it says the monitor is QLED.
https://www.aorus.com/monitors/AORUS-FV43U/Key-Features
So is the article wrong and the 48" model is OLED and the smaller models are QLED?
 
rinaldo00 said:
Here is a recent article about this monitor
https://www.techtimes.com/articles/...-oled-display-and-why-its-good-for-gaming.htm

I started a new thread on it.

There is something very confusing though. The article says this:

The Aorus Gigabyte 4K monitors are really making waves and for those that might not need the massive 48-inch gaming monitor, there is an option for the smaller 32-inch monitor available with the same high-powered specs expected. Although the prices haven't been revealed, normally, a smaller monitor would be more affordable.
For gamers that might not need the massive 48-inch gaming monitor, the smaller 43-inch gaming monitor and the 32-inch gaming monitor could be a better pick

But when I go to the Gigabyte page for the 43" version (the only model with a webpage, the other models say "coming soon", it says the monitor is QLED.
https://www.aorus.com/monitors/AORUS-FV43U/Key-Features
So is the article wrong and the 48" model is OLED and the smaller models are QLED?
Click to expand...
Huh? The article says nothing about the 43" being an OLED. The 'V' in FV43U means it's a VA panel and the 'I' in FI32U means it's an IPS panel, just as the 'O' in FO48U means it's an OLED. The product page for the FV43U you link to even says it's a VA.

1618500926953.png
 
Armenius said:
Huh? The article says nothing about the 43" being an OLED. The 'V' in FV43U means it's a VA panel and the 'I' in FI32U means it's an IPS panel, just as the 'O' in FO48U means it's an OLED. The product page for the FV43U you link to even says it's a VA.
Click to expand...
When the article said "option for the smaller 32-inch monitor available with the same high-powered specs expected" I thought it meant same type of panel also.
 
alxlwson said:
I followed a guide sheet I found on the reddit super thread on it.
I have a CX with the 2080Ti.
Used the cablematters usb-c adapter. Running 4k120Hz full rgb 10bit

View attachment 345874
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Which cable matters adapter did you use for this? I see several on amazon. I am ok getting 4k/60 with hdr since I will be running a longer hdmi cable to my 65" c9.
 
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kasakka said:
Good news!

Nvidia driver 465.89 finally fixes the "Realtek Displayport-to-HDMI 2.1 protocol converter clock limited to 600MHz pixel clock [3202060]" issue that has been plaguing the drivers for several months and made it impossible to get 4K 120 Hz 4:4:4 with the Club3D adapter.

Installed and confirmed all is working as expected again.
Click to expand...
So I came here to update everyone about this. I can also confirm that I have this working as well. No more using ancient drivers. I did actually report this bug using the Nvidia driver feedback form about a month before this driver came out. I don't believe I was the cause of this lol but I like to think I helped given the timing.

This was super annoying as I run a 65" C9 in the middle and two 48" CX monitors (one on each side). I could do one direct HDMI connection on my 3090 but the other two had to be the adapters.
 
Cali3350 said:
Any luck yet gettting a Macbook to drive 4k 120hz, or is that ship sailed?
Click to expand...
No, and it doesn't even work with most native DisplayPort 4K 120 Hz monitors. It's something about the timings (even with DSC) that cause some displays to not work.

HDR doesn't through the adapter either.
 
Is there any way the Hours On stat in the support menu can get reset? My Microcenter refurb is showing 2 hours, most or all of which is is just me setting it up.
 
clayton006 said:
So I came here to update everyone about this. I can also confirm that I have this working as well. No more using ancient drivers. I did actually report this bug using the Nvidia driver feedback form about a month before this driver came out. I don't believe I was the cause of this lol but I like to think I helped given the timing.

This was super annoying as I run a 65" C9 in the middle and two 48" CX monitors (one on each side). I could do one direct HDMI connection on my 3090 but the other two had to be the adapters.
Click to expand...
I have to ask, what are you using 3 monitors for?
 
clayton006 said:
So I came here to update everyone about this. I can also confirm that I have this working as well. No more using ancient drivers. I did actually report this bug using the Nvidia driver feedback form about a month before this driver came out. I don't believe I was the cause of this lol but I like to think I helped given the timing.

This was super annoying as I run a 65" C9 in the middle and two 48" CX monitors (one on each side). I could do one direct HDMI connection on my 3090 but the other two had to be the adapters.
Click to expand...

Sounds interesting. Huge.

rinaldo00 said:
I have to ask, what are you using 3 monitors for?
Click to expand...

I don't use mine for the same reasons he does but here is some of my multiple screen story:

I've ran at least a dual screen setup since at least 2008 with a fw900 graphics professional CRT for gaming next to misc LCDs (22.5"1024x768 lcd, then a 31.5" x1200, etc). Then a 27" 120hz 1080p gaming lcd next to a 27" 1440p glossy ips when 120hz hit but before g-sync was a thing. Later a 1440p 144hz g-sync TN gaming screen next to the 1440p glossy ips.

In more recent years I ran the 27" 1440p g-sync screen alongside a 43" 4k VA in landscape, but then I liked the 4k so much that I added a 2nd one to the other side for more desktop/app real-estate. Shortly after I got a 32" (31.5") 1440p VA g-sync screen that I put between the two 43" 4k landscape screens which I stuck with for awhile. That array was ~ 7' Long edge to edge.

Long story short I've more or less run a separate screen for gaming next to another one (or more) for desktop/apps for years.
Currently I have the 48" cx in between the two 43" 4k VA screens but I switched the 43" 4k screens into portrait mode to consolidate the space better. Coincidentally it still ends up being 7' long just like the previous landscape mode setup was.

Any wider than that and I'd have to sit back farther than the 38" to 48" I sit now but I'm not using the side monitors for gaming~peripheral immersion at all. I typically use the left 4k screen split into 3 windows high. The right screen I have around a 40% bottom portion for browser, mail, text editor,etc. above which are chat apps and screenshot apps, discord, etc. and above those readouts, notifications, progress meters, etc.
 
Since I cannot game and work at the same time I just use one monitor. Most games are hard enough to run at 4K 60 with full graphics much less 4K 120. I guess if you prefer OLED for gaming and VA/IPS for work I can see that but a 65" C9 in the middle and two 48" CX monitors (one on each side) seems so huge and having to turn your head so far from left to right not to mention image degradation at extreme viewing angles that it seems unproductive. I must be missing something ;)
 
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