LG 48CX

[chimera991]

That adapter requires Display Stream Compression support which is found only on the latest GPUs. So a laptop will not have it, it's a waste of money if you are only looking to get 60 Hz.



You need a Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter, Club3D and CableMatters should have suitable options. This allows for 4K 60 Hz. Make sure you check what version of Displayport is supported by the docking station, it might be limited as well. A lot of docking stations and USB multiport hubs are a pile of crap when it comes to supporting higher refresh rates.

Yea I just want to do at least 60hz for my work setup. I ended up pulling the trigger on a club 3d one on amazon for like $21.

 

[elvn]

Do you guys know of anyway to hide the task bar on the primary screen while keeping it shown on a secondary?
I suppose I could make my side monitor primary and hide the task bar on my cx... thats a pain to switch back and forth though.

I don't have my OLED yet but this is some of what I do already and the rest of what I will do once I get mine:

-Translucent taskbar for windows 10 from the microsoft store (makes the taskbar itself clear so no "line" left showing when hidden)

-Taskbar hider app. Set a hotkey to lock the taskbar away hidden. Stays hidden until you hit the hotkey again. Operates by hotkey rather than mouseover if you set it up that way.

-Dump all of my desktop icons into a "desktop-icons" folder in my documents folder and make it a favorite or pinned in file browser

-Black desktop background

-Displayfusion pro and use multiple monitors.
.....set displayfusion pro to use it's own taskbars on the other monitor(s), including windows start menu button, system tray, system clock. Set to slim height (my preference). The system tray(incl. accessing system tray icons and their right click menus, etc) and start menu work on these so there is no reason to use them on the OLED in a multi monitor setup.
.....set displayfusion pro to make the Alt+Tab or CTRL+Alt+Tab menu to only show the apps open on that particular active monitor (that you've been using or that your mouse is currently on). This makes it a lot easier to just use that thumbnail menu to switch apps instead of using the taskbar. You can also customize the size of the thumbnails in the popup in displayfusion's settings.
.....set displayfusion pro to save window position layouts to a named file once I get my most often used apps set up, or a few permutations of window positions/apps to different desciptively named saved layouts.


-only use the OLED for games and multimedia content as a "stage"(my preference, to be safe). Games, movies/videos, streams, art/photography/screenshot slideshows, animated audio visualiztions, etc. Leave things running on it (videos or slideshows, audio visualization etc) even if I'm reading/browsing/working on a different monitor.

-use the logo dimming function of the OLED
-use the pixel shifting function of the OLED
-keep ABL on
-keep the OSD screensaver/power saving on in case windows, bios, or an app ever freezes on screen.
-keep out of extreme heat, direct sunlight building heat even on the back of it, and off of heat exchange vents directly.


------------------------------------

What limits OLEDs in lower peak color volume/color brightness vs % of the screen with brigthness stepdowns and the ABL"reflex" kickin on as tradeoffs are the very things that keep the OLEDs on "simmer" (with brief, generally small % of screen flares in HDR) making it much more unlikely that they will get burn in. There is also a wear-evening function during standby that can "wear down" or "burn down" the rest of the oleds to match the slightly worn areas which can extend the quality lifespan of the untis potentially.

By the way I've been using the regular windows screen saver on my VA gaming screen recently and an app failure notification window popped up above the Screensaver while I was away from the desk for a little while. So I wouldn't recommend relying on that kind of thing. I'd use the OSD powersaving/screensaver and if I was going to be away from the TV for random amount of time, turn it off.

Regarding displayfusion taskbar, just hit Win button + S to pop up a search panel. There's zero reason for me to show my windows taskbar now really..

 

[mirkendargen]

I'm in the US, and I haven't gotten the 03.11.30 OTA update yet.

Download it and update from a flash drive, works great I didn't get updates offered automatically for weeks after some people here reported getting them. They seem to be really conservative with their waves.

 

[NM64]

By the way I've been using the regular windows screen saver on my VA gaming screen recently and an app failure notification window popped up above the Screensaver while I was away from the desk for a little while. So I wouldn't recommend relying on that kind of thing. I'd use the OSD powersaving/screensaver and if I was going to be away from the TV for random amount of time, turn it off.

Perhaps the following is indeed what you mean by "OSD powersaving/screensaver", but for years now I always just have the power settings on all of my PCs to automatically turn off the display (or more accurately stop sending a video signal) after 10 minutes, and then usually the actual monitor or TV will similarly automatically turn off after a few minutes of recieving no signal - this would avoid the issue of the PC throwing up an error over-top of a screensaver since, unless the PC has fully locked up, it should still be able to automatically stop outputting a video signal after 10 minutes even while the error message is on-screen (and even when a PC fully locked up, if the display itself already turned off then no amount of locking up from the PC would make the screen turn back on).

 

[st1650]

Canadian OLED48CXPUA still haven’t gotten the new firmware OTA. Maybe I’ll try the USB.

 

[chimera991]

Passive DisplayPort to HDMI adapters & cables are directional, and only come in DisplayPort male to HDMI female / male. These adapters can output 4K 60 Hz only with DisplayPort 1.4 (even the older non-DSC ones can).

All existing Intel on-board graphics are DisplayPort 1.2 and can do only 4K 30 Hz with any active or passive DisplayPort to HDMI adapter. You must use the native HDMI 2.0 port on the laptop / dock for 4K 60 Hz.

Yea i just upgraded my docking station at work: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-u...product-tile_dlp_nan_5tw10ut_hp-usb-c-dock-g5.

I'm hoping those 4k60hz cables i got do the work. So far it looks a little better connecting through hdmi, and not a displayport adapter to hdmi. Returned the displayport adapter with the quickness!!!!

 

[Monstieur]

Yea i just upgraded my docking station at work: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-u...product-tile_dlp_nan_5tw10ut_hp-usb-c-dock-g5.

I'm hoping those 4k60hz cables i got do the work. So far it looks a little better connecting through hdmi, and not a displayport adapter to hdmi. Returned the displayport adapter with the quickness!!!!

Plain USB Type-c docks don't use the laptop's GPU for acceleration like a Thunderbolt or proprietary dock made for a particular laptop. They are cheap external USB display adapters with low bandwidth and terrible performance even for simple desktop applications like scrolling in the browser.

EDIT: The dock you linked supports Thunderbolt, which means it should be able to passthrough even non-Thunderbolt USB Type-C Alt Mode HDMI and DisplayPort. Ensure you connect it to a Thunderbolt / USB-C Alt Mode port on the laptop and not just any USB Type-C port.

 

[elvn]

Perhaps the following is indeed what you mean by "OSD powersaving/screensaver", but for years now I always just have the power settings on all of my PCs to automatically turn off the display (or more accurately stop sending a video signal) after 10 minutes, and then usually the actual monitor or TV will similarly automatically turn off after a few minutes of recieving no signal - this would avoid the issue of the PC throwing up an error over-top of a screensaver since, unless the PC has fully locked up, it should still be able to automatically stop outputting a video signal after 10 minutes even while the error message is on-screen (and even when a PC fully locked up, if the display itself already turned off then no amount of locking up from the PC would make the screen turn back on).

My point was you can't trust a slim chance of a pc/app/os locking up or even bios on restart locking up so you'd be better off relying on the internal power saving of the tv itself in its own OSD. Random things happen like system rebooting spontaneously and stuck on bios screen. The whole OS freezing so it can't put the screen(s) into standby. Probably better off just turning it off with the remote if you're going to be away a long time.

You using the OSD of the TV on top of puttiing the screen in standby via the OS would do the trick. The reason I was messing with the Screensaver was that I occasionally get hdmi handshaking issues when displays connected by displayport to hdmi adapters attempt to wake up. From what I've read it might be an issue with the gou waking up before the display can. I thought I'd try activating a Screensaver if only going to be away a relatively short time so I wouldn't have to risk the hdmi handshaking blinking the screen a bunch of times before it gets a solid handshake/signal (which I suspect might put wear and tear on the display and backlight) and which sometimes results in getting no signal after all of the blinking.

TLDR: waking up displayport to hdmi connected screens from windows display standy can cause screen blinking on wakeup and even no signal at times so I'm prob better off just using the Tvs own Screensaver and energy saving timeout or turning it off with the remote.

Hopefully once I get an aorus gpu with 3xhdmi outs for my three screens I won't have to worry about the hdmi handshaking occasionally glitching when waking up from standby anymore.

 

[Daleon]

Anyone using a 6800\XT with this panel and having any issues with 4K/120?

 

[Porter_]

I’m trying to distill all the info on this screen (here and elsewhere) down to something manageable. I’m hoping you guys can help me out. Before my screen arrives next week what (if anything) should I do as a 2080Ti owner? My understanding is I must choose two of three:
- 4K resolution
- 120 hz
- HDR

I use an HDMI 2.0 (18Gbps) cable and intend to run 4K @ 120 hz SDR. I believe that means I’ll have to settle for 4:2:0. Is that correct? If so, is that how other non-HDMI 2.1 users are running this screen? How does it look?

 

[Monstieur]

I’m trying to distill all the info on this screen (here and elsewhere) down to something manageable. I’m hoping you guys can help me out. Before my screen arrives next week what (if anything) should I do as a 2080Ti owner? My understanding is I must choose two of three:
- 4K resolution
- 120 hz
- HDR

I use an HDMI 2.0 (18Gbps) cable and intend to run 4K @ 120 hz SDR. I believe that means I’ll have to settle for 4:2:0. Is that correct? If so, is that how other non-HDMI 2.1 users are running this screen? How does it look?

That's right. 4:2:0 looks like crap on the desktop and even in games with small text. I would buy the Club3D adapter and play at HDR 4K 120 Hz RGB 10-bit without G-SYNC. Otherwise I would play at HDR 4K 60 Hz RGB 8-bit with dithering with G-SYNC, or HDR 1440p 120 Hz RGB 8-bit with dithering with G-SYNC.

 

[shadow2761]

The older OLEDs had incorrect Game mode settings and were locked in wide gamut colour, so the image was always oversaturated.

The settings I posted here for HDR (SDR is in the next post) are the only correct settings. That's how the image is supposed to look.
https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/page-135#post-1044810911

Interesting. But I like pretty colours even if it is not natural and realistic. Can I keep my CX image in such a way whilst I game?

Secondly, does anybody notice some PC games are more responsive than others on the CX? For example, Gears 5 4K HDR feels to me like there is instant reaponse time and zero lag, it's buttery smooth and very desireable. Where as, Star Wars Fallen Order has a very noticeable lag to input and is very unpleasant.

 

[kasakka]

I’m trying to distill all the info on this screen (here and elsewhere) down to something manageable. I’m hoping you guys can help me out. Before my screen arrives next week what (if anything) should I do as a 2080Ti owner? My understanding is I must choose two of three:
- 4K resolution
- 120 hz
- HDR

I use an HDMI 2.0 (18Gbps) cable and intend to run 4K @ 120 hz SDR. I believe that means I’ll have to settle for 4:2:0. Is that correct? If so, is that how other non-HDMI 2.1 users are running this screen? How does it look?

Your choices are:

• 4K 120 Hz 4:2:0 8-bit SDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
• 4K 120 Hz 4:4:4 10-bit HDR without G-Sync using Club3D DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter (this is what I use)
• 4K 60 Hz 4:4:4 8-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
• 4K 60 Hz 4:2:2 10-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)

I would never run 4:2:0 for desktop use. https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl is a great tool for quickly switching between resolution/color depth settings.

 

[kasakka]

Interesting. But I like pretty colours even if it is not natural and realistic. Can I keep my CX image in such a way whilst I game?

Secondly, does anybody notice some PC games are more responsive than others on the CX? For example, Gears 5 4K HDR feels to me like there is instant reaponse time and zero lag, it's buttery smooth and very desireable. Where as, Star Wars Fallen Order has a very noticeable lag to input and is very unpleasant.

That sounds like either the TV is getting switched out of game mode so has higher input lag or there is some issue with the game. I haven't played SW Fallen Order so can't say. Try the game and see if the display settings are the same as when playing Gears.

 

[shadow2761]

That sounds like either the TV is getting switched out of game mode so has higher input lag or there is some issue with the game. I haven't played SW Fallen Order so can't say. Try the game and see if the display settings are the same as when playing Gears.

I am thinking it may be the less frames I am experiencing that feels like higher input lag.

Gears 5 is running constant 120fps that could be why it feels more responsive and feels like no input lag is present.

Fallen Order and Shadows of Tomb Raider run around 60-100fps and both feel like there is some noticeable input lag.

My friend told me it is because v-sync is enabled. But i tried v-sync both enabled and disabled and could not discern much difference.

Is it correct to enable v-sync when also using g-sync?

 

[Kev13Dd]

I am thinking it may be the less frames I am experiencing that feels like higher input lag.

Gears 5 is running constant 120fps that could be why it feels more responsive and feels like no input lag is present.

Fallen Order and Shadows of Tomb Raider run around 60-100fps and both feel like there is some noticeable input lag.

My friend told me it is because v-sync is enabled. But i tried v-sync both enabled and disabled and could not discern much difference.

Is it correct to enable v-sync when also using g-sync?

Yes. You almost always want Vsync on with Gsync. That's how you get the best experience. Vsync on prevents screen tearing above the refresh rate, and for any random frame generated with a frametime faster than your refresh rate

Vsync and Gsync together will not add any noticeable input lag

https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/

 

[b1gLoRD]

Yes. You almost always want Vsync on with Gsync. That's how you get the best experience. Vsync on prevents screen tearing above the refresh rate, and for any random frame generated with a frametime faster than your refresh rate

Vsync and Gsync together will not add any noticeable input lag

https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/

The strange thing is without vsync enabled I got screen tearing even at 80-100 fps range. With vsync enabled everything is fine. Gsync enabled all the time. Any idea what could be causing this?

 

[kalston]

The explanation is in the link you quoted.

tl;dr when g-sync is enabled the v-sync setting controls a core functionality of g-sync without which tearing can still happen.

 

[repoman0]

This thing is $1450 with $100 Hulu code, $100 Costco card and five year warranty right now through Costco. We pay for Hulu and get groceries at Costco so kind of like $1250. I had it shipped to my dad’s in NH too to duck the sales tax. Nice deal compared to the one I bought and returned earlier this year for $1600 after tax. Seems like all the problems are essentially fixed now.

 

[MistaSparkul]

This thing is $1450 with $100 Hulu code, $100 Costco card and five year warranty right now through Costco. We pay for Hulu and get groceries at Costco so kind of like $1250. I had it shipped to my dad’s in NH too to duck the sales tax. Nice deal compared to the one I bought and returned earlier this year for $1600 after tax. Seems like all the problems are essentially fixed now.

Just the VRR gamma shift still lingers but you can do various things to reduce it.

 

[Advil]

As I understand it, and the way I do it, is to enable GSYNC -AND- VSYNC in the Nvidia control panel BUT keep VSYNC DISABLED in the games themselves.

Also, I set my frame limiter in the Nvidia control panel to 117fps to keep games from hitting or exceeding 120hz which can cause VSYNC only to be used which could reintroduce extra input lag.

I'm playing through Shadow of the Tomb Raider right now and I'm not feeling any notable lag and I've been paying attention for it. It's been a pretty incredible experience so far. There's no sign of "wow, the screen moves way after my mouse does." Also I'm fairly competitive in Rocket League and there's not any feel of control lag at all. For reference, my last screen was a low lag 1440p IPS gaming monitor. I know the CX is been tested as a little higher, but it's still supposed to be under 20ms.

 

[Monstieur]

As I understand it, and the way I do it, is to enable GSYNC -AND- VSYNC in the Nvidia control panel BUT keep VSYNC DISABLED in the games themselves.

Also, I set my frame limiter in the Nvidia control panel to 117fps to keep games from hitting or exceeding 120hz which can cause VSYNC only to be used which could reintroduce extra input lag.

I'm playing through Shadow of the Tomb Raider right now and I'm not feeling any notable lag and I've been paying attention for it. It's been a pretty incredible experience so far. There's no sign of "wow, the screen moves way after my mouse does." Also I'm fairly competitive in Rocket League and there's not any feel of control lag at all. For reference, my last screen was a low lag 1440p IPS gaming monitor. I know the CX is been tested as a little higher, but it's still supposed to be under 20ms.

VSync should always be enabled in the game, as the engine has different code paths and input lag optimizations for VSync.

 

[chimera991]

Your choices are:

• 4K 120 Hz 4:2:0 8-bit SDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
• 4K 120 Hz 4:4:4 10-bit HDR without G-Sync using Club3D DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter (this is what I use)
• 4K 60 Hz 4:4:4 8-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
• 4K 60 Hz 4:2:2 10-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)

I would never run 4:2:0 for desktop use. https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl is a great tool for quickly switching between resolution/color depth settings.

Whats the best setting for desktop use where its on for at least 8 hours a day (work)?

Also, I cant figure out how to have different picture settings despite having a B8 and C9, this one just doesnt have picture settings that stick..

 

[b1gLoRD]

VSync should always be enabled in the game, as the engine has different code paths and input lag optimizations for VSync.

What about ULLM with LG CX ? Did you or someone else make some test with that ? Should we expect any issues ? Should we get better frametimes with ON/Ultra ?

 

[Porter_]

That's right. 4:2:0 looks like crap on the desktop and even in games with small text. I would buy the Club3D adapter and play at HDR 4K 120 Hz RGB 10-bit without G-SYNC. Otherwise I would play at HDR 4K 60 Hz RGB 8-bit with dithering with G-SYNC, or HDR 1440p 120 Hz RGB 8-bit with dithering with G-SYNC.

Your choices are:

• 4K 120 Hz 4:2:0 8-bit SDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
• 4K 120 Hz 4:4:4 10-bit HDR without G-Sync using Club3D DP to HDMI 2.1 adapter (this is what I use)
• 4K 60 Hz 4:4:4 8-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)
• 4K 60 Hz 4:2:2 10-bit HDR with G-Sync (HDMI 2.0)

I would never run 4:2:0 for desktop use. https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl is a great tool for quickly switching between resolution/color depth settings.

thanks guys, much appreciated.

 

[Monstieur]

What about ULLM with LG CX ? Did you or someone else make some test with that ? Should we expect any issues ? Should we get better frametimes with ON/Ultra ?

It should be enabled only in games that specifically work fine with it, like CS: GO. It causes stuttering in most games if globally enabled.

 

[chimera991]

It should be enabled only in games that specifically work fine with it, like CS: GO. It causes stuttering in most games if globally enabled.

I tried to play this game on the CX, just couldnt do it, its too big.
And not sure how anyone expects to play competitive (i mean I dont like to lose or get my ass kicked). After switching back to my 1080p 24", it felt better and let the ass kicking commence!!!

 

[shadow2761]

VSync should always be enabled in the game, as the engine has different code paths and input lag optimizations for VSync.

Ahh man, so many contradicting views.

 

[shadow2761]

I'm playing through Shadow of the Tomb Raider right now and I'm not feeling any notable lag and I've been paying attention for it. It's been a pretty incredible experience so far.

I also tried SOTR last night and I can definitely notice lag but only in certain areas where the frames dip below 80fps.

In the areas where the frames are high, i.e. near the beginning pf the game there is barely noticeable lag for me.

Are you playing it max quality 4K? What GPU?

 

[t1337duder]

I tried to play this game on the CX, just couldnt do it, its too big.
And not sure how anyone expects to play competitive (i mean I dont like to lose or get my ass kicked). After switching back to my 1080p 24", it felt better and let the ass kicking commence!!!

I got 1st place on the scoreboards in FFA and TDM multiple times last night on Black Ops Cold War, and that's with a 77"

You get used to it pretty quickly I think.

 

[Kev13Dd]

Firmware for Europe is up on LG support sites

 

[Advil]

Realistically, it doesn't matter if it's enabled in the Nvidia CP or in the game as long as you aren't having an issue with it. The general rule is GSYNC and VSYNC both on if you want to use GSYNC. That much at least has been nailed down for a long time.

You can in theory leave VSYNC off and GSYNC on but if the game exceeds the monitors max refresh rate, and therefore GSYNC maximum frame rate, GSYNC will turn off and tearing may result again... the thought process for allowing this being that input lag will VERY SLIGHTLY reduce with GSYNC off at the extremely high frame rates and some gamers may want this result... only having GSYNC on when the frame rate is really low, but not when extremely high in order to minimize all possible input lag.

But frankly, the lag reduction is tiny, and pretty much no one who runs GSYNC wants any kind of transition happening into and out of GSYNC mode because that breaks the whole purpose of having it on... continuously controlled smooth frame deilvery with no tearing.

This is also why most of us run with frame rate limits turned on (set a few FPS below max screen refresh rate) whenever possible and why it's so NICE having that option directly in the Nvidia drivers now. By not allowing the max refresh to hit or exceed the GSYNC upper limit we can keep (in theory) EVERY game inside the GSYNC window all the time. It's a great thing. A few games aren't working with the Nvidia frame rate limit but most are and hopefully all will going forward.

Otherwise just shut GSYNC off, turn VSYNC off, set every option on your screen you can find to minimize latency and go. You'll have the absolute minimum input lag but will have some screen tearing. You choose your poisons.

Back to the VSYNC thing for a moment. If a game has specific problems you notice with leaving it enabled in the Nvidia panel and not in the game, just try it the other way. But things should improve as we move forward with this. I'm running under the assumption that the Nvidia control panel VSYNC control is more likely to properly interface with GSYNC settings when they are both being set and controlled from the Nvidia panel rather than whatever implementation the game has even though the game's implementation of VSYNC interally may be "better" for the sake of actually using VSYNC stand alone. But once again, just do whatever works for the games you are playing.

 

[t1337duder]

I've never experienced tearing with G-Sync with V-Sync on or off. In different games I've tested, the max they will go to is with 120FPS.

 

[kasakka]

Whats the best setting for desktop use where its on for at least 8 hours a day (work)?

Also, I cant figure out how to have different picture settings despite having a B8 and C9, this one just doesnt have picture settings that stick..

4K 120 Hz 10-bit SDR. That's what I use it for most of the time for personal use while for work it runs at 4K 60 Hz because my Macbook Pro can't do any better.

 

[Makeroflostsouls]

Sweet just updated to the new .30 update and it fixed my black screen issue with starting a game. Can’t wait till evga list their 3080 water block cards. Still on my 5700xt.

 

[MrTX]

Hi guys, I just bought the LG CX48, and I have this thin vertical black line on the right side of the TV. It appears on all scenes and inputs. The weird thing is this happen after I did an update to 3.11.25. It wasn't there with the original version it came with (3.0 or something). Anyone has any idea on how to fix this? Will it go away or did I get a defective panel?

Edit: Just did a manual pixel refresher and it's gone. Phew.

I'm using a laptop with GTX 1660 Ti and HDMI 2.0 cable at 1440p 120hz 8bit RGB for now (until I can build my pc next month). My laptop can run 4k 60 hz but there is no option for this in Nvidia Control Panel. Does anyone know why? (I see PC 4k 120hz, but I can't run it because I'll get No Signal when I select it.)

 

[kasakka]

I'm using a laptop with GTX 1660 Ti and HDMI 2.0 cable at 1440p 120hz 8bit RGB for now (until I can build my pc next month). My laptop can run 4k 60 hz but there is no option for this in Nvidia Control Panel. Does anyone know why? (I see PC 4k 120hz, but I can't run it because I'll get No Signal when I select it.)

It should be in the TV resolutions section. Check what Windows Display Settings offers.

 

[MrTX]

It should be in the TV resolutions section. Check what Windows Display Settings offers.

Gotcha, thanks. Gonna have to settle for 4k 60hz 420 for now. Still looks awesome!

 

[NM64]

I would never run 4:2:0 for desktop use.

I would make a single exception for if you're using at least 200% DPI scaling since 4:2:0 by definition has the same chroma resolution as 1080p 4:4:4, and as someone with a father that needs the DPI scaling really cranked up (read: 150% on a 25" 1080p display; same desktop realestate as 720p) I'm not about to tell people what is and isn't "too big".

I tried to play this game on the CX, just couldnt do it, its too big.
And not sure how anyone expects to play competitive (i mean I dont like to lose or get my ass kicked). After switching back to my 1080p 24", it felt better and let the ass kicking commence!!!

Presumably you're using the 55" or 65"?

I say this because the 48" has the exact same PPI as a 1080p 24" display, so all you'd have to do is either run in windowed mode with 100% scaling or set your desktop/in-game resolution to 1080p but with GPU scaling enabled and set to "centered" (unless there's a specific "1:1 pixel" setting for 1080p resolutions on the TV?) . It'll result in window boxing, but it'll be the exact same size as that 1080p 24"

...but at that rate you might as well make a custom ultrawide resolution with a 1080p vertical resolution instead (2560x1080, 3840x1080, etc).

 

[chimera991]

Having a hell of a time using my work setup, its only outputting 4k@30hz. Hate the input lag. I think if LG really wants to advertise this as a "monitor" they should have included 1 DP input. I've already confirmed the laptop and docking station can do 4k60hz. It just has to go through DP. I was too late in canceling my club 3d DP to hdmi adapter, which I hope fixes this issue. Other wise, no 4k60hz for me on my work setup.

Really underwhelmed with the LG 48CX. Maybe its because I already have a b8 and a c9, so I've gotten used to owning an OLED.

I'm hoping the C1 or whatever the successor is to the 48CX has the goods we've all been waiting for.

Presumably you're using the 55" or 65"?

I say this because the 48" has the exact same PPI as a 1080p 24" display, so all you'd have to do is either run in windowed mode with 100% scaling or set your desktop/in-game resolution to 1080p but with GPU scaling enabled and set to "centered" (unless there's a specific "1:1 pixel" setting for 1080p resolutions on the TV?) . It'll result in window boxing, but it'll be the exact same size as that 1080p 24"

...but at that rate you might as well make a custom ultrawide resolution with a 1080p vertical resolution instead (2560x1080, 3840x1080, etc).

Negative, I'm on a 48CX, I assumed everyone here is the same since the thread is about the 48CX... But yea, playing on a big ass monitor is a no go for me, also I'm just used to gaming on a 1080p when it comes to online FPS. I have a 280hz monitor for fps games. Everything else I'll be using the 48CX. Now to just get my hands on a 6800xt or a 3080...