How come none of the mechanical keyboard last more than 3 year, what happens to 50M keystroke guarantee?

Happy Hopping

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The switches are typically so unlikely to be the point of failure that I doubt anything that is happening is due to a manufacturing defect of Cherry, itself. Keyboard manufacturers advertise the lifespan of the switches as a marketing point, but the reality is that they don't do a very good job of making the housing/PCB/rest of the keyboard, so you'll end up with a poor product. That's what happened with my Razer Blackwidow V3 Pro Chroma, and what caused the death of that keyboard was purely corrosion of the PCB components. I de-soldered the switches of the keys that appeared to be ghosting whenever I plugged in the bad keyboard into another PCB, and viola, they worked just fine, no ghost keypresses, nothing wrong at all.

If you're interested, the best way to get a lasting keyboard is to invest in learning how to build your own keyboard from base components (buy the switches, pcb, case, plate, and keycaps separately or as part of a kit), or understand that you'll probably end up having to buy another keyboard after one or two years when you buy an off-the-shelf "gaming" keyboard. It can be expensive in some cases, but you can spend less than what you'd pay for an off the shelf keyboard and get a better experience with a little effort.

In fact, that's exactly what I tried out when I bought an air75 from Nuphy for $109 ($130 including shipping and their $10 discount when you give your email away), a $20 mechanical switch lubing kit from amazon and some masking tape, and I ended up with a far better and undoubtedly a longer lasting keyboard than the top-tier, off-the-shelf keyboard that I got from Razer for $200. That's $150 for keyboard + wireless connectivity, mac and windows keycap layout support, and great feeling typing if you want to put a little elbow grease in versus $200 and no wireless support, bad feeling switches, and no help if you try to get warranty repairs if you go with the Razer.

If you're wanting to take that route, send me a pm and I'll guide you through how I did it myself, as I had some prior experience building and modding standard mechanical keyboards before I modded this low-profile keyboard. If not, I'd just continue to expect to produce e-waste every few years and blowing thorugh another $150.
Cartercanedy:

can you list all the DIY components such as the PCB, key caps, plate etc. that are the best money can buy? Their website perhaps

also, w/ these manufacturers, do we gauge them based on how long their warranty is?
 

DrezKill

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I got a Corsair K70 RGB keyboard with Cherry MX Red switches for Christmas 2015, and it still works fine. No issues with it thus far. I'm on my PC all day every day. It's my main gaming rig as well as my main everything-else PC. Only thing I've ever had to do with my keyboard so far is clean dust and crumbs off of it every once in a while (most of the time compressed air gets the job done). Very easy to do when you can easily take all the keycaps off and the switches are mounted directly to the keyboard's surface. I've never had a keyboard that was this easy to clean.
 

sethk

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A simple solution if you are having repeated key failures is to buy a keyboard with replaceable keys and keep a few spares. Problem solved.
I have about 10 mechanical keyboards and only one of them (corsair early k series) developed an issue with key double registration but I am pretty sure it’s the electronics.
 

bonehead123

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I guess I've been one lucky SOB, 'cause I've been bangin away on all 3 of my Logitech G613's for almost 4 years now, nevanottaproblemo...

And I'm typing on them for at least 6 hrs/day at work and 4-6 moar at home every day :)
 

RazorWind

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Have a das I've used for several years, no problems. Changed the key caps that's it. Cherry brown switches.
I actually just repaired my ~2011 vintage Das Ultimate S with Cherry Blues for the second time over the weekend. I think the first time, the E key stopped working, and maybe one other. This time, it was A, U and T.

In both cases, it was the actual switches that failed, and not the PCB or the solder. They're easy to replace if you have a workbench set up to repair computer parts, but taking the plastic housing apart is pretty much impossible without breaking the little tabs.

Considering how much it cost, I wish it had been designed a little better WRT repairability. Das can't really do much about the switches failing, since that's on Cherry (who, incidentally, also made the shockingly flimsy switch gear in my Porsche), but what they could have done is make it possible to take it apart without destroying it.
 
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I actually just repaired my ~2011 vintage Das Ultimate S with Cherry Blues for the second time over the weekend. I think the first time, the E key stopped working, and maybe one other. This time, it was A, U and T.

In both cases, it was the actual switches that failed, and not the PCB or the solder. They're easy to replace if you have a workbench set up to repair computer parts, but taking the plastic housing apart is pretty much impossible without breaking the little tabs.

Considering how much it cost, I wish it had been designed a little better WRT repairability. Das can't really do much about the switches failing, since that's on Cherry (who, incidentally, also made the shockingly flimsy switch gear in my Porsche), but what they could have done is make it possible to take it apart without destroying it.
Agreed. I had to open one up to fix the main cord and broke some of those tabs too. Stupid pets caused the damage. Funny how it survives falling off the desk with no real damage but I have to break part of it to fixit :(
 

Happy Hopping

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IMG_1107.JPG


this "brand" Azio, is definitely a mistake. Their keyboard is heavy, enough to do bicep curl, but the quality is still poor. I air spray the keyboard via my air compressor, just after, I notice the "C" key looks funny. I bought it at ebay, so I can't do a review at amazon. I wonder if there is any place that a lot of people go to for reading review.
 

Happy Hopping

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Update: the key that's really stuck is the "0" key at the numeric keypad. Once I press it, it keeps appearing on my screen as the key is stuck and won't bounce up. As of 5 days ago, I fixed it w/ 2 drop of lubricant per hole. And since then, it no longer stuck

Since the keyboard stuck is the only problem, I'm happy w/ the lubricant drop fix.
 

Phazer Tech

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My Steelseries 6GV2 is over 10 years old and still going strong. One of the key caps is a little loose and occasionally falls off, but hardly a big deal. Pretty sure its the cap and not the switch.
 

Happy Hopping

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if I have money to custom build a wooden keyboard in the future, I would need some of you people input on the best plate and circuit and switch out there. As I don't know how would anyone repair a wooden keyboard should something fails.
 

w1retap

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if I have money to custom build a wooden keyboard in the future, I would need some of you people input on the best plate and circuit and switch out there. As I don't know how would anyone repair a wooden keyboard should something fails.
Best is subjective. But by wooden, do you mean just the case/chassis of it? I built one last year of that style. I'll share my specs with you:
- GH60 Wood Case (Walnut color)
- Melgeek MJ64 PCB
- MKzealots MJ64 Anodized Black keyboard plate
- Durock V2 Stabilizers
- Outemu Silent Gray switches
- GH6x compatible foam silencer insert
- GMK Mecha-01 keycaps

Not top of the line stuff, but it has been working fine without issue.

PXL_20211120_211015657_2.jpg
 

Happy Hopping

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search under BreakWooden at Etsy​


I sort of like his sculpted keyboard, but the sculpture is not good, and I only use 104 key keyboard


I never heard of silent grey? so no click sound, what's the fun in that? I heard of brown, blue, red etc., but we have grey now, is it new

what is the manufacturer warranty on these 2 ?

- Melgeek MJ64 PCB
- MKzealots MJ64 Anodized Black keyboard plate
- Durock V2 Stabilizers
- Outemu Silent Gray switches
- GH6x compatible foam silencer insert
 

w1retap

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It's all about personal preferences when building a keyboard. You can choose the parts you want. As for warranty, who knows, maybe ask the sellers.
 

Happy Hopping

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I want to read up on anyone who do you did, hand made a keyboard from parts, and after using those parts for 5 yr., the keyboard still works fine

by the way, did you put band aid on your stabilizer, is that what everyone does?

 
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drutman

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We have been through three RGB Corsair KBs with next day replacements. Two words for you "Planned Obsolescence". Sorta expected with mass production solder baths and plastic mounts etc. Try a Ducky KB supposed to be the best.
 

Happy Hopping

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in many threads that I post in the past years, I warned others to stay away from Corsair due to their "divine management" w/ their SSD failure saga, ie., their fantastic SSD vanishing act on people's system, no PC can see it, one day it's there, the next day it's gone -- Even David Copperfield can't do that. The way they handle customer return, is NOT to answer their phone and emails
 

drutman

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in many threads that I post in the past years, I warned others to stay away from Corsair due to their "divine management" w/ their SSD failure saga, ie., their fantastic SSD vanishing act on people's system, no PC can see it, one day it's there, the next day it's gone -- Even David Copperfield can't do that. The way they handle customer return, is NOT to answer their phone and emails
We had a Corsair SSD crap out too.
 

mvmiller12

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My experience with Corsair is that they make otherwise wonderful products that have a really (REALLY) stupid fatal flaw that occurs because they cheaped out on something (usually basic). I have had ALL of these except the waterblock. I keep buying their stuff because it is (other than the fatal flaw) good quality stuff for a reasonable price; often better and more fit to my purposes than other OEM equipment I have worked with. And if you know about the flaw and can work around it/avoid it, then ++Good.

Corsair RGB fans (any of them): individual LED "control chips" die, causing the RGB lighting on the fan, and any fans downstream from it, to flicker erratically. Not sure why this happens, have had it happen to several Corsair fans that are otherwise good. Never had this problem with my other RGB equipment which includes piece from Barrow and EK. Cause: Unknown

Corsair H2100 headset: Mic just dies. It's physically there - just stops working entirely. Cause: wiring is poor.

Corsair Void Headset: Mic just dies. Cause: wiring is poor

Corsair Void Pro Headset: One or both of the speakers will suddenly stop working due to some dirt working it's way into the contact connection inside the ear cups Once this happens, the electrical connections cannot be restored. Mic just dies. Cause: wiring is poor.

Corsair Commander Pro: Early releases of the software and firmware were very broken, up to and including failure to turn on fans. These work great now, but it took them well over a year to get the basics ironed out. Cause: shitty software QA

Corsair K70 RGB: The first keyboard to use Cherry MX RGB keys, mine uses browns. The cable is so stiff that moving the keyboard frequently (I use it in my lap) eventually puts a short in it near where the cable enters the keyboard. I have had mine replaced twice for this issue. Lettering also wears off the keycaps quickly. Cause: wiring is poor. key caps are not properly double-shot.

Corsair GeForce waterblocks: Jayz2Cents reported on this, but I don't buy nVidia and thus never had cause to encounter it. The blocks would leak when there was any real amount of weight or pressure on the G1/4 connectors. Cause: Corsair only put 2 screws into that part of the block - all other manufactures of this type of block use 3.

Knock on wood, but my Mrs and I now have Corso Virtuoso SE headsets, and after over a year the only problems we have are dirty volume knobs (just don't use them) and some occasional software glitches (reboot if necessary to resolve).
 

SamirD

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...like my toddler son destroying my Model M by ripping the keys off and losing all the buckling springs one day (that was a sad, sad day in the Miller household).
I hope you still have these parts because Unicomp can fix that for you! (y)
 

SamirD

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I have a 20+ year old rubber dome keyboard I can't do without. They don't make them like they used to! In all seriousness, there is nothing particularly robust about the Cherry switches. They are mechanical parts which can fail just like anything else. Some will fail more than others, even the same model Cherry keys will have outliers.
Keytronic used to make the best rubberdome in the business. I still have 2x of them and they're really nice to type on. IBM even made a rubberdome version of the model M that used rubber sleeves vs springs and it was quiet even though it had tactility.
 

SamirD

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Is there any good brand name out there that will last 5 to 10 year?
I have been using Model M keyboards since the late 1980s and the Logitech Trackman thumb wired since 2004. All of my original hardware is still working, even after some anger abuse. I also have bought up a bunch of spares and extras for other locations since I'm physically in 3-4 different workspaces at times. Everything is still working. I burst at about 140wpm when typing and can hit 6,000cpm on the num pad when entering accounting info.

I think the biggest thing to figure out is what your hands like in a keyboard and then keep trying, but only buy solid brands. I have a few cherrry mx based cheapees that I used on and off for whatever, I have a Das for travel, I use a coolermaster at one workstation vs an M, and in general haven't had any issues. Sometimes its your type style that affects longevity. I use standard home-row typing techniques so my key presses are always vertical, but I've seen people who type hella fast and use an angular approach to hitting keys which will wear differently. All these are factors when you're talking about millions of actuations.
 
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