GIGABYTE AORUS FV43U 43 inch 4k 144 HDR1000 QLED monitor

wickfut

Limp Gawd
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129
have you tried a HDMI cable yet? I haven't noticed any of the issues you seem to get.

Also what are you trying to do? I set mine at 10 bit, full colour, 4k ,144hz and left it since day 1. No reason to try and faff about with weird resolutions or frame rates.
 

Michi

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have you tried a HDMI cable yet? I haven't noticed any of the issues you seem to get.

Also what are you trying to do? I set mine at 10 bit, full colour, 4k ,144hz and left it since day 1. No reason to try and faff about with weird resolutions or frame rates.
i set 120hz to my desktop because of reading clarity then i tried BF V 4K 144hz with HDR over DP and noticed that slight dark shimmering at bright elements, with 120hz it was gone. Nvidia is set to Full RGB 10bit. Saw since update to F06 i could set it to 12bit
 

Roen

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Is anyone else getting red ghosting, typically next to brown objects like tree trunks and wooden furniture? And are you unable to get rid of it, like I am?

Can you guys check something for me, please? Grab the Gas Station Simulator demo from Steam. I get red ghosting trails in other games as well but this game has a specific spot that reveals it perfectly. Does your monitor do it too? Run the game in the following way:
  • G-sync enabled
  • HDR in Windows OFF
  • Set the monitor to a high refresh rate (100+), or run high fps (100+) with g-sync.
    At 60Hz the problem is hidden by extreme overshoot. At 100+ it's a little worse than at 85Hz.
  • Overdrive: Picture Quality or Balance.
  • Color space of the picture mode: Auto (=default). Color temp: Normal (=default), 6-axis color settings on defaults.
  • In-game setting: shadows HIGH or EPIC (Medium will hide the issue by brightening shadows.)
At the start of the game, turn on the generator. With the lights off the issue won't reveal itself. Once the lights are on, enter the gas station. There is an upside down table on the floor. As you walk in through the front door (the one in the 1st screenshot on the Steam store page), walk past the table and the shopping cart, then turn around to look at the table from a bit of distance. Strafe from one side of the room to the other by holding A or D wile looking at the table. Is there a bright red trail behind the table's legs? Turn off overdrive and check again. Now the trail is twice as fat. Overdrive reduces the red trail but cannot get rid of it. It's worse after the sun comes up in the game (in-game time is displayed top right), the game begins at night iirc.

Is it just mine that does this red ghosting? Don't answer that without running the test.

Reducing red saturation in the 6-axis color controls improves it, only by a small amount though unless you completely suck all the red out. With red saturation reduced to 25 for instance, the red trail is pretty much gone. I've got mine set to 43 (down from 50). The panel has red dominance by default anyway. Wide gamut monitors tend to extend their gamut more into the reds than blue and green. So losing a bit of red isn't bad. Reducing the red saturation further below 43 is too much, so the red ghosting does remain an issue.

Edit: I'm done editing. ;)
 
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Roen

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It's best to check it out for yourself, but here's a test screenshot from the start of mission 1 in the demo of Shadow Tactics: Blades of the Shogun.
Drag it across your screen to see red ghosting.
If your red saturation is on its default of 50 in 6-axis color, it should be quite severe. I lowered mine to 37 now and it's still obvious.
Shadow Tactics_2022_04_27_20_23_42_658.png

I tried making video and photos of what it looks like in motion on mine. The results aren't how it looks IRL at all, so I'm hoping dragging this screenshot around makes it obvious enough to see the increase in reds so you know what I'm on about.
 
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Michi

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It's best to check it out for yourself, but here's a test screenshot from the start of mission 1 in the demo of Shadow Tactics: Blades of the Shogun.
Drag it across your screen to see red ghosting.
If your red saturation is on its default of 50 in 6-axis color, it should be quite severe. I lowered mine to 37 now and it's still obvious.
View attachment 467979
Red ghosting?
Dont know what you mean.

I tried it with saturation default (50) and i saw when i just put it to 51 or 49 the red teint is gone and it looks more "natural" or more brown
 

Roen

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Does the image not become more red (mostly next to edges of shadows and rocks) while you drag it around your screen?
On mine almost the whole image turns more red when it moves.
Just drag the whole browser window around.
 

Michi

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Does the image not become more red (mostly next to edges of shadows and rocks) while you drag it around your screen?
On mine almost the whole image turns more red when it moves.
Just drag the whole browser window around.
Now i noticed what you mean. Thats with default saturation 50 of red
 

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Roen

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Yeah, thanks. It doesn't look exactly like in the photo in reality does it, but those are better pics than my phone was able to make. On photos it shows as seperate overlaid frames, in reality it's more continuous but the red edges are there. I'm not sure if I should be happy that it's not just mine so I don't have a defective unit, or sad that they all do it and exchanging it isn't going to help.

There is a similar report on Reddit - link to thread:

Dark colors leave a trail of 'bleed' or ghost when moving on screen.​

As title states, high-saturation colors that contain red hues leave an afterimage behind them. Colors that are a majority red are the most egregious, such that dark areas in video games are strongly shaded red.
When nothing is moving, there is no color bleed visible.
My monitor is the Sceptre E246BV-FMQC, connected via HDMI cable.
And another VA user on Reddit:

Asus TUF vg24v 144hz red trails​

I just bought a monitor of the specs above. It works great except that for certain games, e.g. sea of thieves and Minecraft, after a short time there is dark slightly red trails that follow every dark object. I’m not sure if the monitor is defective or if my rig is just struggling
 
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Wiz33

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Shadow Tactics: Blades of the Shogun use a color palette with a red brown tint, it really comes out on the IGN review on Youtube but it's not nearly as bad in the Aiko's Choice expansion.

Shogun


Aiko's
 

Roen

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After dialing down the red saturation to the point that that rockface in Blades of the Shogun no longer looks warm but more gray brown instead and the game overall looks even a touch cool and green, the red trailing is merely recuded, not removed. Basically all content gets red trails, not just one game that has an exceptionally red color palette. With that said, display technology is in a weird place today as it has been for ages, which means that whatever you buy is going to have at least one major shortcoming. Slow pixel response is the price to pay for 43" 4K with high contrast. I knew that going into this. I didn't expect it to be quite this bad. Black smear is only a problem with certain games and there's stuff you can do to mostly remove it - pick the right Hz and lower the sharpening options you have, enable AA and dark smear on foliage at least is 90% gone. The red trailing you can't do as much about and its red color makes it stand out. In most scenes though when actually focused on the gameplay or movie itself, after reducing the red saturation it's not bad enough to ruin the experience. There is no alternative as there currently is no actually competing monitor on the market at this size. Even if there was, it would have the same problem or a different problem. The Iiyama has the same red ghosting and doesn't get nearly as bright.

What the FV43U doesn't do, unlike other VA monitors I've tested, is either black smear or overshoot-highlight all the little outlines (=darker than the rest) of rocks and pebbles on the ground in Divinity: Original Sin when you pan the camera. I would have to put them side by side to confirm but subjectively it does better in this regard than did the 32" Acer Predator Z321QU and LG UltraGear 32GK850G. The only other VA on par with the Aorus in this regard was the G7 I tried that flickered like a strobe light in VRR, and required an OSD setting to be enabled to get rid of that which then replaced flicker with stutter. In other words VA (especially large VA) currenly simply doesn't get better than what we've got with the FV43U. The choice between a €1400 ultrawide IPS monitor and the (in my case) €700 FV43U that is twice as tall and has far better contrast is still obvious, even if the UW IPS doesn't ghost. My only real alternative would be a 50" QN90A which beside being is a TV instead of a monitor, comes with its own set of flaws and would have you change settings in a TV OS instead of a more convenient, quick to use OSD menu. Its pixel response time is similar and it's a samsung qled panel too so it might actually have the same red ghosting.

I am happy to report that in Grim Dawn, the game in which the G7 had the most VRR flicker, the FV43U does fine in VRR (g-sync via DP). At the location in town where I saved my game, the two sections of corrugated roofing with an alternating pattern of shadowy and brighter lines that caused the G7 to flicker the whole screen, on the FV43U still have a mild flicker themselves that is not there on an IPS panel but the rest of the image is completely unaffected. No microstutter in VRR either, unlike the G7. Having no VRR flicker on VA is rare. The Aorus does flicker a bit in certain load screens and game menus, not while playing.
EDIT: FALSE, spoke too soon. VRR flicker occurs, mostly on the right side, whenever there is a light source in the scene that isn't producing a perfectly steady luminance such as a candle (observed in Shadow of the Tomb Raider), or when even a very small part of the scene quickly increases in brightness such as when in Telltale's The Walking Dead the mouse brightens (by moving over them) the little white circles that indicate what objects you can interact with. It is much more subtle than on the Samsung G7 I tested, still enough for me to turn off g-sync for The Walking Dead.

If you haven't played Alien: Isolation on your FV43U yet, you definitely should. It will make you crap your pants.

how did you a factory reset?there is only a "settings reset" in the OSD right?
That's what I meant.
 
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wickfut

Limp Gawd
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Messages
129
It's best to check it out for yourself, but here's a test screenshot from the start of mission 1 in the demo of Shadow Tactics: Blades of the Shogun.
Drag it across your screen to see red ghosting.
I'm actually not sure I can see what you're seeing to be honest. I can see a little blur, I wouldn't say it's a stand out red or anything. I'd say it's a darker version of the background colour as the blur is noticeable on the black areas. Dragging light blue leaves a darker blue tint blur, as expected.

I do know that I see motion blur usually on high contrast, dark mountains against light sky areas and that I can change the blur from a dark shadow to a light halo depending on what overdrive I set the monitor to.

I make the odd ENB preset for games on occasion so need a static monitor reference so I leave my monitor set to the "green" preset with nothing changed as that's supposedly closest to a calibrated setting.
 

Roen

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I'm actually not sure I can see what you're seeing to be honest.
Here's a video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/mepka6pgn3hymvr/VID_20220430_150324.mp4?dl=1
From 0:11 until 0:14, when red appears while the image appears to not be moving, it's actually moving and I am moving the phone along with it. Gives you a clearer view of the red outlines- much less clear than IRL but it's the best I can do with my old phone. Due to the panning the camera trick between 0:11 and 0:14 you don't see multiple frames at once when pausing the video. Not as much, at least.

Sreenshot from the video:
1651326689310.png

The arrows point at red that wasn't there when stationary. There's more in there but I got tired of drawing arrows.
To see it on your own monitor, try picking a specific rock and keep tracking it with your eyes while you drag the image from one side of the monitor to the other at a controlled steady pace.
I was playing Telltale's The Walking Dead earlier today and couldn't help but notice it in nearly every scene.

I make the odd ENB preset for games on occasion so need a static monitor reference so I leave my monitor set to the "green" preset with nothing changed as that's supposedly closest to a calibrated setting.
Doesn't matter which picture mode, the red ghosting occurs in all of them, at least on mine.

Earlier I said I don't get any VRR flicker during gameplay. I spoke too soon. I edited my previous post to reflect this, the details for anyone who wants them are right after "EDIT: FALSE" (in red) in post 1410.
 
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wickfut

Limp Gawd
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The arrows point at red that wasn't there when stationary.
Red was always there because red is a dominant colour of brown. The object you're seeing the blur from is brown and the background is also brown.
Let me explain some more.

Your monitor produces colours with 3 different colour sub pixels - Red, Green and Blue. Your brown mountains are made with the following RGB values (I took a sample of an average light brown from your image posted a few posts up)

.
Untitled.jpg


As you can see the values in this image are Red - 153, Green - 109 and blue 72. Mid brown is usually Red 150, green 70 and blue 0) the increase in green and blue colours increases the white level of the brown or lightens the brown.

Now imagine you're moving your little brown image furiously across the screen with your mouse and noticing this red blur. This is because the blur is made of all the values between the original pixel colour and all the values it goes through until it fades to the background colour.

So let's simplify the colours and round them off. So let's say the brown pixel values are now Red 150, Green is 70 and blue is 50, which should be close to a light brown used in the game. Now take the blur colour (whatever colour they fade to in the time period the blur is visible) , lets say all pixels shift to black at the same rate and we sample an average at half the fade rate which leaves us with Red 75, Green 50, Blue 0.

This would mean the blur colour is this:-

2.jpg


So what you're seeing is actually the blur of the dominant pixel colour and not a red blur of the monitor - unless your monitor has a completely different spec to mine or is broken.

Do it with a white object on a black background. White is RGB 255,255,255 - in other words everything set to maximum. If you get red trails off a white object then that will show that your red pixels have a slower decay time to the green and blue pixels.

Mine don't.

Here's an image with 3 squares. Black , mid grey and light grey. Depending on the overdrive setting you will get slightly different blur colour shifts on one or more of the leading and trailing edges

Picture quality overdrive has no colour shifts on any edge

.
3.jpg
 
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Roen

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So pedantic. You are talking to an IT professional with a career spanning multiple decades and 30 years of combined Commodore64, MSX, Atari, Amiga, and PC gaming experience, who has used countless monitors in his lifetime starting with monochrome. Do not lecture me.

You think I need to be taught about RGB? I'm an amateur photographer so I know my way around photoshop, know how to setup color profiles etc. In the old days I have made websites and stylesheets in Notepad creating colors with color codes. You think I hadn't thought of the red component of brown? I even mentioned that in a post, but I edited it back out because after a few minutes of thought I understood it wasn't the answer and wanted to avoid a pointless discussion like this about colour. Yes, red is part of brown, congratulations. But that doesn't mean you are supposed to get a bright neon/fluorescent red line behind almost every moving thing.

That neon red highlight next to the biggest shadow in the middle of the image is such a bright and deep red that if that amount of red had been in the BLACK it came from (the image was moving to the right) then that black would not have been black. For it to have maintained its neutral tone green and blue would've had to be at or near 255 too.

So what you're seeing is actually the blur of the dominant pixel colour and not a red blur of the monitor
This is laughable. As if it's normal. It isn't. Other monitors don't do this.
It also does not have to be the dominant color for it to happen.
It just has to be black, close to black, OR there has to be more than zero red in it.

So what you're seeing is actually the blur of the dominant pixel colour
That's not the whole story. There is a neon bright red coming out of the big black shadow in the middle that was moving to the right. Where I come from, black is 0 0 0 not 255 0 0. MS Paint even measures it at 0 0 0. Closer to the red line it measures 7 0 0, in no way is that enough to cause that much red just by red subpixels switching slower than the other two. The 7 is most likely only measured because the monitor made it that in motion, when it should have been 0 0 0 just like the right half of the shadow. The red fringe there is not overshoot in front of the gray/brown rock either because when you disable overdrive, the red fringing gets worse.

Not that those details matter here because nothing should be coming out of anything. A red smear near black, a red smear near brown, or a yellow smear near unicorn purple, it doesn't matter. It's bad either way.

Just "for science" then: anything that contains even a slight bit of red gets a bright red fringe. Shadows also get the red smear, even blacks that didn't contain any red to begin with. So the issue is with all tertiary and secondary colors that contain even just a slight hint of red, which is most things, and blacks / dark shadows. That's a lot, which is why practically every scene has red fringing when in motion.

Do it with a white object on a black background.
Pointless: the complaint is that most things red smear. Pointing out one thing that doesn't isn't going to magically make that go away. I can make your yellow nickname and the yellow bar to the left of it in the above quote red fringe by moving the browser window.

Now imagine you're moving your little brown image furiously across the screen
I like that you decided to go with the "furiously" (purchase justification? sweep it under the rug?) despite that I wrote to "drag the image from one side of the monitor to the other at a controlled steady pace". That was just to make it easier to track with your eyes. The ghosting only gets worse when you do it "furiously" but it's more than bad enough to see it without doing that, so I thought it best to suggest a controlled steady pace.

Sorry, I am not blessed with a ton of patience this morning...
My reason for posting the issue is not to try to justify it away, it's to warn prospective buyers so they know what to expect. So what you are doing here could lead to people buying an FV43U and being disappointed, wasting their time and potentially money as returns of large objects aren't exactly free in most cases. I have eyes, I see the problem, it's obvious, annoying, and it is what it is. I have just shy of 2 weeks left to return it. I still might, I'm on the fence. The reason it hasn't been returned already is that I don't really see an alternative on the market and I don't want to go back to a much smaller (IPS) panel. The motion handling on this thing is atrocious compared to most monitors I've had and have used. Let that be clear. The black smear isn't too bad compared to other VAs, but this red smear is something most VAs don't do or I would have noticed it on the other VAs I've tested.

Also what are you trying to do? I set mine at 10 bit, full colour, 4k ,144hz and left it since day 1. No reason to try and faff about with weird resolutions or frame rates.
This is where the lecturing writing style began (maybe earlier, I haven't bothered to check). A monitor supports multiple refresh rates for a reason. People have very good reasons to use them depending on the content, so let them. The FV43U's dark smearing increases above 100Hz because the pixel response averages about 10ms, and 1000ms/100=10ms. That alone is reason enough to not run it at 144Hz ever. All moving content is better at 110Hz than 144Hz on this thing. And I only say 110 instead of 100 because at 100 there isn't an ideal overdrive setting because it's not been tuned optimally. At 110 you already get a very small increase in black smearing compared to 100Hz, but the monitor forces you to bump it up to 110 or 120 because at 100 there is too much overshoot with the "balance" OD setting while "picture quality" isn't enough (above 85Hz). I can't use 144 on the desktop because of the artefacts with highlighted filenames and menu items. Some games require 60Hz with v-sync in order to run stutter free. Pinball FX3 for example even has certain pinball tables that require 60Hz v-synced while other tables are fine at 120Hz v-synced. (None of them can handle VRR, the physics are affected by fps.) Look if you don't want to "faff about" because you don't understand, then don't, but don't lecture other people about it. UW custom resolutions are better for certain games than 16:9, being able to do that is part of the appeal of a 43" 4K monitor. If that's not you, fine, why not let other people do what they want to do and actually get the most out of what a monitor like this has to offer. I am still not convinced that the FV43U accepts a 3840x1600 signal because some games that let you select "exclusive fullscreen" cause the screen to drop the signal, while with other titles this does not happen. My theory is that the games where it doesn't lose signal don't actually do exclusive fullscreen. This however contradicts with the fact that it accepts a desktop running at 3840x1600 with scaling set to be performed by the display, which I would expect is not a 4K signal. Whatever the case, monitors (unlike TVs) can and should be expected to support all kinds of sub native resolutions and refresh rates. And they do. That is part of what makes them monitors. Consoles output either 4K or 1080p, and only 60Hz or 120Hz, PCs don't. Do you ever watch video or movies on your monitor? Then consider picking the best refresh rate for the framerate of the video. If the video is 30 fps then 120Hz should look smoother than 144Hz. A resolution mode of, say, 3840x1836 @ 94Hz is no more "weird" than 3840x2160 @ 144Hz, it is merely less commonly used. A monitor that can do the latter is also capable of the former. The monitor also has VRR flicker in certain scenarios, so running v-synced is going to be required sometimes irrespective of performance, but even with a 3090 you cannot always get enough fps in every title at 4K - and in the future with newer games you definitely won't so resolutions below native are typically going to be used quite often. Combining low fps with v-sync and high refresh rate is the worst idea. You then either have to lower the refresh rate to a value the GPU can consistently reach in terms of fps, use adaptive v-sync at half the refresh rate (which means you use whatever refresh rate is double the fps you can consistently get), lower the resolution, or both. Yea, I think there's enough reasons why it isn't just "144hz 4k and job done".
 
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Crosshairs

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Hey if that attitude is what you think will get you far in life, go nuts. Welcome to the ignore list.
Let's get back on topic please.

So far today:
You've got upset over a none-offensive post I made.
You've accused me of lying.
You've went through my post history and nit-picked posts that were directed at other people.
You've accused me of purposely misleading potential buyers and trying to screw people over.

and now you want to give me morality lessons over my attitude. You are an absolute joke.



I'm sorry, those two posts are legendary. I'm still laughing at how fucking pathetic you are.
How about you guys take take a break and quit arguing in the thread
 
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Just noticed this is 699 on amazon. That seems like exceptional value, nothing in the price range comes close. Just waiting to see what the samsung 43qn90b offers before I pull the trigger, but at 1199, it better be a lot better.
 

Wiz33

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At $699, it's a no brainer if you 're a casual gamer and use your PC for a variety of tasks. I'm probably going get another to replace the CG437K at the office. The only advise that I have for anyone watching a fair amount of streaming media on it is to get a nVidia Shield as the FV43U does not have a 4K up scaler like most 4K TV so streaming form a device like the Shield with 4K upscaling will give you a noticeable better picture than using streaming apps on your PC.
 

Roen

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At $699, it's a no brainer if you 're a casual gamer and use your PC for a variety of tasks.
It's going to sound weird because it's marketed as a gaming monitor but I agree for mixed use if you're not playing games several days a week for hours at a time, and it's not the main priority. The ghosting is not as likely to bother you in that case. Same if you're going to be distancing yourself with a controller in hand. Don't let price be the main factor though, if you have to look at the thing for a large number of years, best to just get the one you would rather have...
 

Wiz33

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It's going to sound weird because it's marketed as a gaming monitor but I agree for mixed use if you're not playing games several days a week for hours at a time, and it's not the main priority. The ghosting is not as likely to bother you in that case. Same if you're going to be distancing yourself with a controller in hand. Don't let price be the main factor though, if you have to look at the thing for a large number of years, best to just get the one you would rather have...

Also depends a lot of the type of games you play. The only FPSish type game I play is Mass Effect LE, Otherwise, I do play quite a bit of FFXIV, ARPG & RTS type games at about 30" for a few hours everyday and it never bothers me. Also, at $699 it's almost disposable if something else much better came along 2-3 years down the road (and it will given how fast the tech seems to be changing in the last few years).

I hate Samsung in a way on their 43" as they're always gimped compare to the larger model. QN90B sound great until you find out that the 14bit processor is not available on the 43" & 50", just like 120Hz was only available on 50" and up on the QN90A. Otherwise I would have gotten a QN90B to replace the FV43U and take that to work to replace the CG437K.
 
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Roen

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Also depends a lot of the type of games you play. The only FPSish type game I play is
IMO as far as red ghosting goes in shooters it's not really noticeable. It stands out most when things move left or right across the screen, as in: panning. Turning the camera around in a shooter doesn't really do that (spins everything around your viewpoint), neither does walking / running forwards. In shooters you don't tend to strafe sideways for very long. In The Walking Dead, by contrast, you've got brownish skin tones of NPCs that like to trigger the red ghosting and pre scripted panning cameras as well as NPCs walking across the screen from one side to the other AND often warm lighting. The dark smearing (as in: not red) to me isn't a big deal, only annoying for games with a lot of foliage and you can get rid of it by using low / no sharpening settings from the monitor's OSD and applying some AA. You end up with a slightly soft look but where dark smear is most annoying at least you can get rid of it. I'd be more worried about RTS and RPG (panning maps) than FPS. Seemed fine in Original Sin though in my brief panning test. The red and dark ghosting bother me sometimes depending on the situation, not all the time. And not to the point that I'd want to go back to IPS contrast and IPS glow and/or a much smaller screen. As long as I'm not looking for it and actually focused on playing the game.
 
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razzfazz

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Is anyone able to get a USB3 connection through the USB-C port? I'm using a USB-C cable that's rated for 10Gbps, but somehow both my Mac and my Windows box only seem to see a USB2 connection to the monitor's built-in hub through USB-C (while the USB-B port does connect at USB3 speed). Not a huge deal for KVM usage, I guess, but I think my Logi Brio webcam actually does need a USB3 connection to operate at full resolution.

EDIT: I did try different USB-C cables, all rated for 10Gbps, and it's the same with all of them. I guess it's possible that the monitor just uses both of the type-c connector's high-speed lane pairs for DP data?
 

wickfut

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isn't the small USB C port for video input for use with last gen cards like a 2080ti and also why you can select it from the input list when you press {RIGHT} on the remote?
 
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razzfazz

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isn't the small USB C port for video input for use with last gen cards like a 2080ti and also why you can select it from the input list when you press {RIGHT} on the remote?
USB-C can carry both video and data (and power, too), so the port functions as both a DiplayPort input and a USB input (and the built-in KVM actually allows you to map the USB part of it to a different display input, tho arguably that only makes sense if you don't use the video part of the USB-C connection at all).

Video over USB-C is not specific to last-gen cards -- all modern Macs support it, as do many PC laptops. In fact, if the FV43U wasn't so skimpy on the power delivery (limited to 18W), the USB-C port on the FV43U would have been a great single-cable docking solution for laptops.

EDIT: Actually, I think the USB-C connector on last-gen nVidia cards is VirtualLink, not regular DP alt mode USB-C, so that may not even work with the FV43U?
 
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wickfut

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don't know. I never used the USB C on my old 2080ti. I thought it was on the GPU for VR headsets to use a single cable for video and power. I thought it was strange as I bought a HP Reverb afterwards and it had DP.

DId you check the PDF? it doesn't say much apart from you can change the USB type in the KVM menu from type B to type C.
 

razzfazz

n00b
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10
Interesting... So it seems that the built-in KVM only actually switches the USB2 signals between the type-B (legacy) and type-C port; the USB3 signals (which are physically separate) appear to always be connected to the type-B port. How bizarre...
 
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Roen

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 7, 2021
Messages
99
It makes sense when you consider that mouse & kb don't require USB3's bandwidth, and it's a "kvm" feature, as in meant for keyboard, video and mouse. So if it's cheaper to have USB2 KVM-capable interfaces than USB3 ones, they're going to cut that cost.

If you have an external HDD attached to a USB3 port you don't want that to switch over to the other system when all you want is to take control of that other system.
 
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razzfazz

n00b
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10
Sure, but in that case presumably you wouldn't hook it up to the monitor in the first place? It just seems odd to have some of the pins of the integrated USB-A ports switched, but others not. In general I agree that it's not a huge deal, but a) there are some devices where switched USB3 would be useful (e.g., the Logi Brio 4k webcam apparently needs to be on USB3 for 4k recording/streaming), and b) why make the ports USB3 in the first place?
 

razzfazz

n00b
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10
(Also potentially leads to weird situations with composite devices where the USB2 side could end up being connected to one machine and the USB3 side to another.)
 

razzfazz

n00b
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10
But I think the most likely explanation is that they're simply using all four high-speed lanes on the USB-C cable for DisplayPort data. (USB2 can be used alongside that because it uses physically separate pins/wires on the connector/cable.)
 

Oll

n00b
Joined
May 8, 2022
Messages
7
Hello here, since 3 hours now my monitor (AORUS FV43U) refuse to launch. He turn off then playing video games (Farming Simulator 2022).

It went out the first time without touching anything, I used the remote control to turn it back on then 30 minutes later it went out a second time. Now i can't turn it back on.

Some important information :

- No logo in launch screen (PC turned off or unplugged).
- Before I had the AORUS logo even if PC turned off or unplugged.
- When I turn on the screen, the screen LED is white (ON) then turns orange (STANDBY). NO AORUS LOGO!
- Firmware F06
- OSD_Sidekick no longer launches (can't find device)
- Tested with original cables
- Tested in HDMI: does not launch.
- Tested in DP: does not launch.
- Graphics card power wiring checked
- I'll say it again: NO AORUS LOGO on screen startup! Before I had it, now the screen goes directly to standby.

I need help. I am desperate.

Sorry for my english.
 
Last edited:

Michi

n00b
Joined
Nov 4, 2021
Messages
61
Hello here, since 3 hours now my monitor (AORUS FV43U) refuse to launch. He turn off then playing video games (Farming Simulator 2022).

It went out the first time without touching anything, I used the remote control to turn it back on then 30 minutes later it went out a second time. Now i can't turn it back on.

Some important information :

- No logo in launch screen (PC turned off or unplugged).
- Before I had the AORUS logo even if PC turned off or unplugged.
- When I turn on the screen, the screen LED is white (ON) then turns orange (STANDBY). NO AORUS LOGO!
- Firmware F06
- OSD_Sidekick no longer launches (can't find device)
- Tested with original cables
- Tested in HDMI: does not launch.
- Tested in DP: does not launch.
- Graphics card power wiring checked
- I'll say it again: NO AORUS LOGO on screen startup! Before I had it, now the screen goes directly to standby.

I need help. I am desperate.

Sorry for my english.
just check you PC on another Monitor or TV.
Then you can be sure its your Monitor or something from your pc
 

Oll

n00b
Joined
May 8, 2022
Messages
7
just check you PC on another Monitor or TV.
Then you can be sure its your Monitor or something from your pc
Thank you for the answer.
I'm on dual screen. My second Monitor is AOC AGON AG352UCG.
Everything works fine with this screen.
---
Here is a video illustrating my big problem :

---
1/ Boot sequence is longer than before
2/ The AORUS boot logo does not appear
3/ The monitor is in automatic standby

Looks like it's bricked...
 
Last edited:

salsoul

n00b
Joined
May 16, 2022
Messages
3
Hi,

Just signed up as Ive just bought the FV43u, got it all working fine,

I have 2 issues which I cant find in this thread as being solved,

the 1st one is the monitor in Windows 11 is shown as a generic PnP monitor with no associated ICM profile installed- I have OSD sidekick installed and im connected via the supplied USB cable to a motherboard USB3.0 port

Screenshot 2022-05-16 182815 generic pnp monitor.png


the 2nd issue is again within windows I am connected via a DP 1.4 port and HDR works but there is no associated VESA certification despite VESA stating on the box and on the VESA certification website

Screenshot 2022-05-16 182725 auros HDR.png



has anyone come across this and if so how did you remedy it


Kind Regards

Sal.
 

Michi

n00b
Joined
Nov 4, 2021
Messages
61
Thank you for the answer.
I'm on dual screen. My second Monitor is AOC AGON AG352UCG.
Everything works fine with this screen.
---
Here is a video illustrating my big problem :

---
1/ Boot sequence is longer than before
2/ The AORUS boot logo does not appear
3/ The monitor is in automatic standby

Looks like it's bricked...

my Aorus Logo never appear, only when i put the power cable of the monitor out and in.
When you unplug the second monitor and only use the Aorus one?
 

Michi

n00b
Joined
Nov 4, 2021
Messages
61
Hi,

Just signed up as Ive just bought the FV43u, got it all working fine,

I have 2 issues which I cant find in this thread as being solved,

the 1st one is the monitor in Windows 11 is shown as a generic PnP monitor with no associated ICM profile installed- I have OSD sidekick installed and im connected via the supplied USB cable to a motherboard USB3.0 port

View attachment 474490

the 2nd issue is again within windows I am connected via a DP 1.4 port and HDR works but there is no associated VESA certification despite VESA stating on the box and on the VESA certification website

View attachment 474491


has anyone come across this and if so how did you remedy it


Kind Regards

Sal.
1. Its normal, there is no real driver for windows. What says Nvidia Control Panel?There should be the right Name.

2. Dont know, dont using Win 11, but overall HDR is broken on PC in any case. When its working fine in games dont worry
 

Oll

n00b
Joined
May 8, 2022
Messages
7
my Aorus Logo never appear, only when i put the power cable of the monitor out and in.
When you unplug the second monitor and only use the Aorus one?

??? My Aorus logo always appear. Perhaps because i've a cut off power system at electrical outlets with remote controls.
But, the problem is not really here. Power cable of mymonitor out and in, my logo never appear. In your monitor, if you put off power cable, the logo is back. Not me.

Same result with FV43U Only.

- I cut the computer completely (full current).
- I cut the screen completely (full current).
- I only connect the 43 inch.
- I start the computer.
- While Windows is loading, the 43-inch LED is WHITE! but no images on screen. Neither the screen logo nor the Windows loading icon.
- Once Windows has finished loading, the screen goes back to standby on its own.

I do not understand..

The signal is present but the screen refuses to display the signal.

According to my seller, the screen is broken.

Tonight, i'll try to connect my old PS3 with HDMI on FV43U. If I still don't have an image, the monitor is bricked / broken. Wrong idea? Wrong conclusion?
 

motqalden

[H]ard|DCOTM x5
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Messages
2,778
Thank you for the answer.
I'm on dual screen. My second Monitor is AOC AGON AG352UCG.
Everything works fine with this screen.
---
Here is a video illustrating my big problem :

---
1/ Boot sequence is longer than before
2/ The AORUS boot logo does not appear
3/ The monitor is in automatic standby

Looks like it's bricked...


Try unplugging it instead of just turnimg on or off.
 

wickfut

Limp Gawd
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Messages
129
I think the no logo from an unplugged cold start is the clear give away that it's not working correctly.
 
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