GIGABYTE AORUS FV43U 43 inch 4k 144 HDR1000 QLED monitor

Senn

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Then you've got something weird going on because that's not 1:1 scaling at all.
 

Roen

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Correct me if I'm wrong but the text of the display settings menu in the photo is much smaller than the text of the test image, and it's supposed to be either equal-ish size or the other way around, because the text in the test image is quite small.
It still looks scaled to me, not sure what's doing that.

I suggest you save this image right here to disk, open it in your favorite image viewing application (or just Windows' basic image viewer app) and set the zoom level to actual size / 100%. Avoids the browser being involved.
P.S. Keep in mind if you change scaling in the OS back to 100% after having it higher than that, you need to log out & back in for everything to be at 100%. At least that's how it worked in Win7, I don't use 10.
Even if Win10 itself adjusts immediately your browser might not've got the memo.
 
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xDiVolatilX

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Correct me if I'm wrong but the text of the display settings menu in the photo is much smaller than the text of the test image, and it's supposed to be either equal-ish size or the other way around, because the text in the test image is quite small.
It still looks scaled to me, not sure what's doing that.

I suggest you save this image right here to disk, open it in your favorite image viewing application (or just Windows' basic image viewer app) and set the zoom level to actual size / 100%. Avoids the browser being involved.
P.S. Keep in mind if you change scaling in the OS back to 100% after having it higher than that, you need to log out & back in for everything to be at 100%. At least that's how it worked in Win7, I don't use 10.
Even if the Win10 itself adjusts immediately your browser might not've got the memo.
Gotcha, i understand. Here you go. The image you posted "this image right here" opened in my image viewer at %100 the actual images true size with windows at %100 also at 2160. This is the perfect senerio. (sorry blurry out of focus phone photo)
20210809_150429.jpg
 
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Senn

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Gotcha, i understand. Here you go. The image you posted "this image right here" opened in my image viewer at %100 the actual images true size with windows at %100 also at 2160. This is the perfect senerio.
View attachment 383208
Thanks for your efforts, I can see it is still doing it. It tends to look worse to the eye than to a camera.

Again, try viewing it at the top of your screen in this way, it will look worse. Then again at the bottom, it will look a lot better.

So far, 100% of panels I've come across do it so I am going to assume it's universal.
 

Roen

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For comparison, here's a smartphone photo from my Asus PG279QE, a re-release of the PG279Q with an all around excellent IPS panel. The photo is slightly out of focus on the right side, apparently I didn't hold the phone exactly straight so ignore that.
Note the more equal brightness between the white horizontal and vertical lines on black background. I will say the black text light text on black on xDiVolatilX's looks better than other pics I've seen in this thread.

IMG_20210810_002526.jpg
 
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Senn

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It's really hard to determine how it's actually being presented on other people's screens because everyone's camera is different. Modern phone cameras go overboard with their HDR implementations which makes the issue somewhat masked. It's why I say it's worse to the eye than any picture I can capture.

here's a smartphone photo from my Asus PG279QE

And that's what the image is supposed to look like! If only the FV43U could display it properly too.
 

Roen

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If you look closely (at the dark half of the image) on my IPS panel the horizontal lines are brighter, and the vertical are darker. On the FV43U it's the other way around (and the effect is slightly stronger).
On the left, brighter half, my horizontals are darker, verticals lighter, there again it's the opposite on yours.
Edit: It's like looking at a chessboard and yours is rotated 90 degrees compared to mine: I have the light sqare at the bottom right, you have the dark square there. (I'm still talking about the left half of the image here).
Can't touch the IPS for clarity of the text itself tho.
 
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Senn

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It's probably pixel structure on the IPS. On the FV43U it's interference from pixels above as shown here.
 

Roen

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Yeah.. and when the animated line moves down to the row just 1 pixel above the text, the top pixel row of the text lights up. The moving line keeps doing that to every row below. Very odd. How do I run that test on my Asus?
 

Senn

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It was just an animated gif I made myself to show the problem... I'm not at my computer at the moment so I can't get to it. I'll try to remember to post it later!
 
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Senn

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Yeah.. and when the animated line moves down to the row just 1 pixel above the text, the top pixel row of the text lights up. The moving line keeps doing that to every row below. Very odd. How do I run that test on my Asus?
For some reason I couldn't find the original gif so I remade it, this time without the line blinking.

FV43Ubug.gif


And here it is scaled by 500, just to prove I'm not messing with the grey levels (don't use the large version for testing!)

FV43Ubug500.gif


Here is a capture of the test at the bottom of my panel:
SmartSelect_20210810-104010_Camera.gif


And here's the token terrible wobbly shot from the top of the panel (apologies, it's harder to lean on things up here!)
SmartSelect_20210810-104224_Camera.gif
 

Roen

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Thanks. The first, smallest animated gif looks perfect on my Asus. The moving line does not affect any pixels beyond itself. All tack sharp, all text is one and the same shade of gray.

I asked TFTCentral about reviewing the FV43U. Response: "No plans at the moment I'm afraid." So if you can, spread the word about voting for the FV32U on the RTINGS vote page. I replied to TFTCentral's response by mentioning the "pixel row bleed" issue with links to the pics in hopes of either triggering their interest or hearing if they've seen anything like this before or have a clue what it is. Also mentioned Gigabyte called it a "hardware limitation". :whistle:
 
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Senn

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Thanks. The first, smallest animated gif looks perfect on my Asus. The moving line does not affect any pixels beyond itself. All tack sharp, all text is one and the same shade of gray.

I asked TFTCentral about reviewing the FV43U. Response: "No plans at the moment I'm afraid." So if you can, spread the word about voting for the FV32U on the RTINGS vote page. I replied to TFTCentral's response by mentioning the "pixel row bleed" issue with links to the pics in hopes of either triggering their interest or hearing if they've seen anything like this before or have a clue what it is. Also mentioned Gigabyte called it a "hardware limitation". :whistle:
That's fantastic, thanks for spreading the word!
 

Wiz33

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As in I believe it's not the backlight that dims. It stays at the same brightness while the panel's pixels simulate the effect of local dimming.

I'd like to be proved wrong here because it sounds insane. But that appears to be what the FV43U does.

Managed to capture some footage of the local dimming error on mine.



This doesn't always happen and I haven't pinned down what does make it happen. 4k 60Hz for reference, I still don't have a card that can go further.



OK back in office and tried playing with local dimming and a bunch of SDR settings and all that was change was the brightness of the screen. No change in color or color shift at all. Are you using the DP cable that came with the unit? have you tried a different cable?
 

Wiz33

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For some reason I couldn't find the original gif so I remade it, this time without the line blinking.

View attachment 383337

And here it is scaled by 500, just to prove I'm not messing with the grey levels (don't use the large version for testing!)


Here is a capture of the test at the bottom of my panel:


And here's the token terrible wobbly shot from the top of the panel (apologies, it's harder to lean on things up here!)
Here's how it looks on mine. Top of screen:

IMG_9456.jpg


Bottom of screen:

IMG_9455.jpg
 

Senn

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OK back in office and tried playing with local dimming and a bunch of SDR settings and all that was change was the brightness of the screen. No change in color or color shift at all. Are you using the DP cable that came with the unit? have you tried a different cable?
Yep, supplied cable. It works perfectly otherwise in all resolutions and refresh rates I've tried. I can't see how it would be the cable when it only does that with local dimming mode on, only in the custom settings mode, and only occasionally. As soon as I turn it off it goes back to how it should be. There's no way for the GPU (and hence the cable) to "know" I'm using local dimming or not.

It could be the DP port but it seems more like a firmware fault. I'll have to try it with HDMI but my dinosaur of a card only has 1.4 so 4k 30Hz. I was lucky I got the EVGA 750 Ti back in the day with DP.

Roll on new PC...
 

Saramonnn

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hi guys, I'm pretty happy with the monitor but what I noticed is DSE or vertical banding (bars), can you check in this video:


or


and tell me if you see the dirt? behind the screen too?
or should I exchange the monitor?

Thanks
 

Senn

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hi guys, I'm pretty happy with the monitor but what I noticed is DSE or vertical banding (bars), can you check in this video:


or


and tell me if you see the dirt? behind the screen too?
or should I exchange the monitor?

Thanks

I see an extremely mild vertical DSE effect on these videos, I have to be looking for it though. I consider myself somewhat lucky in terms of dead pixels (none) and panel uniformity/DSE, it isn't beyond what I would expect for a panel like this.

If Gigabyte don't fix this in firmware I'm not buying this thing. I'd not only be parting with the g-sync module in my current monitor, most likely doubling my average pixel response and accepting much less than perfect uniformity toward the edges, I'd apparently also be downgrading raw image quality. I'd love a 43" and HDR is a bonus but at the expense of everything else it's a hard sell.
Just noticed this edit... I know for sure that if I'd been aware of the pixel interference issue I wouldn't have bought the monitor. Not sure what I would have gone for instead, maybe an ultrawide of some sort. But knowing what I know now I would almost certainly avoid the 43" class until the panels get revisions without issues.

BUT...

I haven't returned my FV43U. At least not yet. There's more that I do like than I don't and I did get it cheaper than I should have thanks to my work.

Considering you already have a decent monitor (whereas I was upgrading from a 2007 museum piece) my advice would be to wait.
 
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Wiz33

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Yep, supplied cable. It works perfectly otherwise in all resolutions and refresh rates I've tried. I can't see how it would be the cable when it only does that with local dimming mode on, only in the custom settings mode, and only occasionally. As soon as I turn it off it goes back to how it should be. There's no way for the GPU (and hence the cable) to "know" I'm using local dimming or not.

It could be the DP port but it seems more like a firmware fault. I'll have to try it with HDMI but my dinosaur of a card only has 1.4 so 4k 30Hz. I was lucky I got the EVGA 750 Ti back in the day with DP.

Roll on new PC...

Well, Hate to say it but it may be your card as I have tried it in Standard, custom, and a few other modes with no problem at all.
 

Senn

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Well, Hate to say it but it may be your card as I have tried it in Standard, custom, and a few other modes with no problem at all.
Or, more likely, it's the monitor. I know there's a fault somewhere in the chain but how can my card display completely incorrect colours, rainbowing across the screen in the exact pattern of the local dimming zones, only when local dimming is on?

It makes no sense, technically speaking.
 

Wiz33

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hi guys, I'm pretty happy with the monitor but what I noticed is DSE or vertical banding (bars), can you check in this video:


or


and tell me if you see the dirt? behind the screen too?
or should I exchange the monitor?

Thanks


Not trying to defend the product but can I ask what prompted you to run the test. Did you notice something during normal use or did you just start running test pattern to see if you notice any problem? Point is that banding is fairly common on any panel if you go looking for them. The key is that if it bothers you on day to day use. I've been in the AV field for 40 years and the only test I run are for Stuck bright pixel and dead clusters unless something jump out at me. It would save yourself a lot of grieve if you don't go looking for trouble.
 
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Wiz33

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Or, more likely, it's the monitor. I know there's a fault somewhere in the chain but how can my card display completely incorrect colours, rainbowing across the screen in the exact pattern of the local dimming zones, only when local dimming is on?

It makes no sense, technically speaking.

Do you have anything else to try it on? A Laptop with DP out? a DVD player/streaming device with HDMI?
 

Senn

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Do you have anything else to try it on? A Laptop with DP out? a DVD player/streaming device with HDMI?
Out of curiosity I tried local dimming again without changing anything else, no trippy colours at all. Tried an old laptop with HDMI, again it's fine.

I cannot figure out what it is that triggers the problem but if it's only happening when local dimming is active on the monitor how can it be anything upstream from the monitor itself?

In any case I want to get on Gigabyte's back about this too but I STILL can't get to their support page after their servers were ransomware'd.
 

xDiVolatilX

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Been testing this monitors Overdrive settings on blurbusters & dozens of games & just wanted to share my findings that in my testing the "picture quality" overdrive mode appears to be the best overall. How has you other guys/gals experience been with the overdrive settings. I am in love with this monitor it continues to amaze me at how well it performs all around.

I have also tested a large suite of games in the HDR1000 mode and image quality is stunning.

I have not tried all of the settings so I'd like some opinions from y'alll. Aim stabilizer for games? Anyone tried this? What is it supposed to do? Any good?

Super resolution? What does it do? lol

HDR modes in Win10 64bit I prefer the HDR1000 or HDRMovie modes the best, how about you guys/gals?

RGB PC range left on Auto is fine right?

I know there are more settings to change in SDR mode, but right now I am enjoying the HDR mode so much that I haven't even changed It off of HDR lol.
 

Senn

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Been testing this monitors Overdrive settings on blurbusters & dozens of games & just wanted to share my findings that in my testing the "picture quality" overdrive mode appears to be the best overall. How has you other guys/gals experience been with the overdrive settings. I am in love with this monitor it continues to amaze me at how well it performs all around.

I have also tested a large suite of games in the HDR1000 mode and image quality is stunning.

I have not tried all of the settings so I'd like some opinions from y'alll. Aim stabilizer for games? Anyone tried this? What is it supposed to do? Any good?

Super resolution? What does it do? lol

HDR modes in Win10 64bit I prefer the HDR1000 or HDRMovie modes the best, how about you guys/gals?

RGB PC range left on Auto is fine right?

I know there are more settings to change in SDR mode, but right now I am enjoying the HDR mode so much that I haven't even changed It off of HDR lol.
I find "Balance" to be the best, er, balance for me. Reduces the natural smearing you get with no overdrive quite well while not being too distracting with the overshoot. Haven't done too much extensive testing of the Picture Quality mode though I must admit.

Aim Stabilizer is Gigabyte's name for black frame insertion. It will reduce apparent motion blur by hiding the sample and hold effect. Note that it (currently) only works above 100Hz, I think.

Super Resolution is just some sharpening filter... I'm not a fan, even at lower resolutions.

I can only do HDR on the PS5 for now and settled on HDR1000.

Auto RGB range should be fine, you'd not need to think about this unless you have a source that requires 16-235 levels.
 

Saramonnn

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Been testing this monitors Overdrive settings on blurbusters & dozens of games & just wanted to share my findings that in my testing the "picture quality" overdrive mode appears to be the best overall. How has you other guys/gals experience been with the overdrive settings. I am in love with this monitor it continues to amaze me at how well it performs all around.

I have also tested a large suite of games in the HDR1000 mode and image quality is stunning.

I have not tried all of the settings so I'd like some opinions from y'alll. Aim stabilizer for games? Anyone tried this? What is it supposed to do? Any good?

Super resolution? What does it do? lol

HDR modes in Win10 64bit I prefer the HDR1000 or HDRMovie modes the best, how about you guys/gals?

RGB PC range left on Auto is fine right?

I know there are more settings to change in SDR mode, but right now I am enjoying the HDR mode so much that I haven't even changed It off of HDR lol.
you can see in games like Total war Troy or Spider man (PS5) the super resolution improves the quality of textures (upscaling?). But it adds grain too, so i turned it off.
 

xDiVolatilX

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I find "Balance" to be the best, er, balance for me. Reduces the natural smearing you get with no overdrive quite well while not being too distracting with the overshoot. Haven't done too much extensive testing of the Picture Quality mode though I must admit.

Aim Stabilizer is Gigabyte's name for black frame insertion. It will reduce apparent motion blur by hiding the sample and hold effect. Note that it (currently) only works above 100Hz, I think.

Super Resolution is just some sharpening filter... I'm not a fan, even at lower resolutions.

I can only do HDR on the PS5 for now and settled on HDR1000.

Auto RGB range should be fine, you'd not need to think about this unless you have a source that requires 16-235 levels.

I was going through the tests on blurbusters & while it is very close between "balance" & "picture quality" I noticed a tiny reduction in ghosting & overshoot in the "picture quality" setting although balance looks just as good. Can anyone re-test this when they have a chance to confirm please because I wanted to think "balance" was better but it was too close to call giving "picture quality" equal performance in motion clarity.

I will try Aim Stabilizer soon, looking forward to it. Will report my results.

Why can you only do HDR on the PS5? It looks amazing on Win10-64 on my setup. What is preventing you from using HDR?
 
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xDiVolatilX

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you can see in games like Total war Troy or Spider man (PS5) the super resolution improves the quality of textures (upscaling?). But it adds grain too, so i turned it off.

I see. I will try it for myself and report results also.
 

xDiVolatilX

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Aim stabilzier sync is grey out right now, Is it because adaptive sync or hdr is on? or which other feature would trigger aim stabilizer to be greyed out?

EDIT: when HDR is turned off aim stabilizer is available.

2nd EDIT: Aim stabilizer is not worth it. It introduces ghosting & overshoot. It is clearer with it off. I presume super resolution is lack luster as well.

HDR & Adaptive Sync is the best settings.
 
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Roen

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Not sure what I would have gone for instead, maybe an ultrawide of some sort.
Around 2007 after my first few paychecks at my first proper "career" job I rewarded myself with a 30" 2560x1600 IPS monitor. One of, if not the first 30" panel on the market. Being HP's flagship monitor at the time, it was quality and it took until 1-2 years ago when I finally jumped on the 144Hz wagon. Until then, nothing else had matched its quality. I had to settle for 27" 2560x1440 in order to get a good IPS model with a g-sync module for motion clarity as the refresh rate varies/lowers in demanding games. So I've downgraded the size while what I actually wanted was to go bigger for more immersion. There still isn't even a single 32" 1440p monitor with a g-sync module that's any good. There's exactly one (32GK850G) which I bought and returned - it's godawful, everything being woefully blurred so text looks like you have vaseline in your eyes constantly trying to refocus them to no avail. There used to be another 32" with a g-sync module that's already off the market and for good reason, an Acer Predator. I bought and returned that one too, it too was terrible. Everything on the left half of the panel looked green, everything on the right looked red and there was no way to fix it. Both 32" g-sync module monitors were VAs with black smearing and overshoot to boot. I'll spare you the list of other flaws in both. Of course 32" is only a very small step up from 30" (and my current 27") in the first place, but up until the FV32U we didn't have a good 43" "large format display" option that seemed fast enough.

The first thing to choose when you buy a monitor, at least for me, is the ideal pixel density for your preferred text/UI size and viewing distance without having to enable font scaling in Windows. The latter comes with its own set of problems I have learnt about through experience and that I'd like to avoid. I like to use a larger display and move it back. My eyes have become short sighted already and it's from so many years of sitting at normal distance from a screen. To be able to move it back you need lower (actually standard!) pixel density so everything is larger. Once moved back, you're back at the same text / UI element size as before. To me, the lower the pixel density the better (up to a point), because a larger screen at the same resolution = more immersion without having to push more pixels = more immersion without having to buy a faster super expensive GPU. Say you have a 34" or 37.5" ultrawide at 120ppi (pixels/inch) that means if you ever have to drop back to say 2560x1440 or 1080p in order to run a new AAA game fast enough, the picture will be tiny when displayed 1:1. And 1:1 is always preferred because upscaling simply always looks like butt to anyone outside of Joe Average the console noob. If you have a 91-93 ppi 2560x1440 @ 31.5 - 32", that picture is much larger than 2560x1440 on a high ppi ultrawide, but you're getting the same framerate. The lower density creates somewhat bigger jaggies but antialiasing takes care of that anyway. And let's also keep in mind Windows expects 96ppi per default and we're already calling 110 standard nowadays on monitors. Some games don't scale their UIs, especially older ones, e.g. X3:Terran Conflict's universe map is tiny on a high density display and there's nothing you can do to fix that other than avoid high density displays which includes all 34, 35 and 38" ultrawides on the market today.

I mentioned 1440p at 31.5 - 32" as options for a comfortable 91-93 ppi. By now there's a large number of those on the market but they're all freesync instead of g-sync. Which means they have problems with overshoot at lower fps and you'll have to manually change overdrive settings to match that. There is only one VA type arguably fast enough to mitigate that issue and that would be the ridiculously strongly curved 32" Samsung C7. To me, even that's got issues with darks in motion that I see in every scene - something I am sensitive to and that 1000R curve is very impractical so VA at 32" is off the table. So it'd have to be IPS but if I'm moving from 27" IPS with g-sync module to a mildly larger 31.5" with freesync that doesn't feel like much of an upgrade, now does it....

That's where the idea to go 43" came in - if I'm giving up the g-sync module, might as well go big to compensate. The ppi would be a little high, requiring font scaling, but not massively so, as its ppi around 102 falls inbetween QHD at 32" and the ultrawides. The 4K panel allows you to create any custom resolution you want, be it 16:9 or ultrawide. You can even create a 3860x1600 custom resolution very easily to get that ultrawide experience and the image will be even a bit larger than it would've been on a 38" ultrawide. The pixel density is low enough that you can display 3440x1440 when in a pinch and it won't be super tiny. I also play pinball for which portrait mode is ideal, as pinball tables are long and narrow, the opposite of wide. An ultrawide can't be rotated into portrait mode because one, the curve makes it weird, two, it makes it UltraTall so you'd get a stiff neck, and three: it typically would be mounted too low to be able to rotate without hitting your desk. A 27" or 32" can do it but even more ideal is to just make a custom vertical resolution on a 43" 4K monitor and not have to physically rotate the monitor at all. The flexibility of 4K at 43 to 48" is just insane. You almost get some of the flexibility back that you used to have with CRT monitors when you could pick any resolution you wanted. And you get the desktop real estate on top of that. And the ability to view 16:9 content without vertical black bars. It can do everything an ultrawide can do, while an ultrawide can't do everything an FV43U can do.
 
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Saramonnn

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Not trying to defend the product but can I ask what prompted you to run the test. Did you notice something during normal use or did you just start running test pattern to see if you notice any problem? Point is that banding is fairly common on any panel if you go looking for them. The key is that if it bothers you on day to day use. I've been in the AV field for 40 years and the only test I run are for Stuck bright pixel and dead clusters unless something jump out at me. It would save yourself a lot of grieve if you don't go looking for trouble.
I saw it in Total War Troy, it looked like something was behind the screen, when I scrolled through the map. Then I noticed it in some youtube HDR clips and Football games. I didn't knew what it was, since I had a TN Panel before, so I googled Dust behind screen and found out its DSE + vertical Banding. And I read every LCD monitor has it, more or less so I wasn't sure if I should exchange it (might get a worse one). But was curious if you guys do see it on your screen too (could be I was the only one with a bad screen).
 

Saramonnn

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Aim stabilzier sync is grey out right now, Is it because adaptive sync or hdr is on? or which other feature would trigger aim stabilizer to be greyed out?

EDIT: when HDR is turned off aim stabilizer is available.

2nd EDIT: Aim stabilizer is not worth it. It introduces ghosting & overshoot. It is clearer with it off. I presume super resolution is lack luster as well.

HDR & Adaptive Sync is the best settings.
Did you turn Adaptive Sync off before turing aim stabilizer on? Because they both interfere. Only one should be activated. I tried aim stabilizer and was impressed how good it worked but I didnt like that the brightness was fixed.
 

xDiVolatilX

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There is no other 144hz 4k monitor
I saw it in Total War Troy, it looked like something was behind the screen, when I scrolled through the map. Then I noticed it in some youtube HDR clips and Football games. I didn't knew what it was, since I had a TN Panel before, so I googled Dust behind screen and found out its DSE + vertical Banding. And I read every LCD monitor has it, more or less so I wasn't sure if I should exchange it (might get a worse one). But was curious if you guys do see it on your screen too (could be I was the only one with a bad screen).

I launched a few games and panning around the sky I could not replicate it. Either it is so minimal if it does exist I cannot detect it or it doesn't exist all together on my sample.
 

xDiVolatilX

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Did you turn Adaptive Sync off before turing aim stabilizer on? Because they both interfere. Only one should be activated. I tried aim stabilizer and was impressed how good it worked but I didnt like that the brightness was fixed.
I tried the aim stabilizer with HDR off but adaptive sync on & aim stabilizer on also. The results were poor testing on blurbusters tests. However I have not tried it with adaptive sync off & aim stabilizer on. Which I will test n3xt time I'm in my computer room.
 
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Around 2007 after my first few paychecks at my first proper "career" job I rewarded myself with a 30" 2560x1600 IPS monitor. One of, if not the first 30" panel on the market. Being HP's flagship monitor at the time, it was quality and it took until 1-2 years ago when I finally jumped on the 144Hz wagon. Until then, nothing else had matched its quality. I had to settle for 27" 2560x1440 in order to get a good IPS model with a g-sync module for motion clarity as the refresh rate varies/lowers in demanding games. So I've downgraded the size while what I actually wanted was to go bigger for more immersion. There still isn't even a single 32" 1440p monitor with a g-sync module that's any good. There's exactly one (32GK850G) which I bought and returned - it's godawful, everything being woefully blurred so text looks like you have vaseline in your eyes constantly trying to refocus them to no avail. There used to be another 32" with a g-sync module that's already off the market and for good reason, an Acer Predator. I bought and returned that one too, it too was terrible. Everything on the left half of the panel looked green, everything on the right looked red and there was no way to fix it. Both 32" g-sync module monitors were VAs with black smearing and overshoot to boot. I'll spare you the list of other flaws in both. Of course 32" is only a very small step up from 30" (and my current 27") in the first place, but up until the FV32U we didn't have a good 43" "large format display" option that seemed fast enough.

The first thing to choose when you buy a monitor, at least for me, is the ideal pixel density for your preferred text/UI size and viewing distance without having to enable font scaling in Windows. The latter comes with its own set of problems I have learnt about through experience and that I'd like to avoid. I like to use a larger display and move it back. My eyes have become short sighted already and it's from so many years of sitting at normal distance from a screen. To be able to move it back you need lower (actually standard!) pixel density so everything is larger. Once moved back, you're back at the same text / UI element size as before. To me, the lower the pixel density the better (up to a point), because a larger screen at the same resolution = more immersion without having to push more pixels = more immersion without having to buy a faster super expensive GPU. Say you have a 34" or 37.5" ultrawide at 120ppi (pixels/inch) that means if you ever have to drop back to say 2560x1440 or 1080p in order to run a new AAA game fast enough, the picture will be tiny when displayed 1:1. And 1:1 is always preferred because upscaling simply always looks like butt to anyone outside of Joe Average the console noob. If you have a 91-93 ppi 2560x1440 @ 31.5 - 32", that picture is much larger than 2560x1440 on a high ppi ultrawide, but you're getting the same framerate. The lower density creates somewhat bigger jaggies but antialiasing takes care of that anyway. And let's also keep in mind Windows expects 96ppi per default and we're already calling 110 standard nowadays on monitors. Some games don't scale their UIs, especially older ones, e.g. X3:Terran Conflict's universe map is tiny on a high density display and there's nothing you can do to fix that other than avoid high density displays which includes all 34, 35 and 38" ultrawides on the market today.

I mentioned 1440p at 31.5 - 32" as options for a comfortable 91-93 ppi. By now there's a large number of those on the market but they're all freesync instead of g-sync. Which means they have problems with overshoot at lower fps and you'll have to manually change overdrive settings to match that. There is only one VA type arguably fast enough to mitigate that issue and that would be the ridiculously strongly curved 32" Samsung C7. To me, even that's got obvious issues with darks in motion that I see in every scene, so VA at 32" is off the table. So it'd have to be IPS but if I'm moving from 27" IPS with g-sync module to a mildly larger 31.5" with freesync that doesn't feel like much of an upgrade, now does it....

That's where the 43" came in, its ppi is a little high, requiring font scaling, but not massively so, as its ppi around 102 falls inbetween QHD at 32" and the ultrawides. On top of that, the 4K panel allows you to create any custom resolution you want, be it 16:9 or ultrawide. You can even create a 3860x1600 custom resolution very easily to get that ultrawide experience and the image will be even a bit larger than it would've been on a 38" ultrawide. The pixel density is low enough that you can display 3440x1440 when in a pinch and it won't be super tiny. I also play pinball for which portrait mode is ideal, as pinball tables are long and narrow, the opposite of wide. An ultrawide can't be rotated into portrait mode because one, the curve makes it weird and two, it typically would be mounted too low to be able to rotate without hitting your desk. A 27" or 32" can do it but even more ideal is to just make a custom vertical resolution on a 43" 4K monitor and not have to physically rotate the monitor at all. The flexibility of 4K at 43 to 48" is just insane. You almost get some of the flexibility back that you used to have with CRT monitors when you could pick any resolution you wanted. And you get the desktop real estate on top of that. And the ability to view 16:9 content without black bars. It can do everything an ultrawide can do, while an ultrawide can't do everything an FV43U can do.
Have you considered an OLED? Seems like a 48" model, whether it's an LG C1 or the Gigabyte FO48U would be more or less what you're looking for.
 

xDiVolatilX

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 24, 2021
Messages
1,202
Around 2007 after my first few paychecks at my first proper "career" job I rewarded myself with a 30" 2560x1600 IPS monitor. One of, if not the first 30" panel on the market. Being HP's flagship monitor at the time, it was quality and it took until 1-2 years ago when I finally jumped on the 144Hz wagon. Until then, nothing else had matched its quality. I had to settle for 27" 2560x1440 in order to get a good IPS model with a g-sync module for motion clarity as the refresh rate varies/lowers in demanding games. So I've downgraded the size while what I actually wanted was to go bigger for more immersion. There still isn't even a single 32" 1440p monitor with a g-sync module that's any good. There's exactly one (32GK850G) which I bought and returned - it's godawful, everything being woefully blurred so text looks like you have vaseline in your eyes constantly trying to refocus them to no avail. There used to be another 32" with a g-sync module that's already off the market and for good reason, an Acer Predator. I bought and returned that one too, it too was terrible. Everything on the left half of the panel looked green, everything on the right looked red and there was no way to fix it. Both 32" g-sync module monitors were VAs with black smearing and overshoot to boot. I'll spare you the list of other flaws in both. Of course 32" is only a very small step up from 30" (and my current 27") in the first place, but up until the FV32U we didn't have a good 43" "large format display" option that seemed fast enough.

The first thing to choose when you buy a monitor, at least for me, is the ideal pixel density for your preferred text/UI size and viewing distance without having to enable font scaling in Windows. The latter comes with its own set of problems I have learnt about through experience and that I'd like to avoid. I like to use a larger display and move it back. My eyes have become short sighted already and it's from so many years of sitting at normal distance from a screen. To be able to move it back you need lower (actually standard!) pixel density so everything is larger. Once moved back, you're back at the same text / UI element size as before. To me, the lower the pixel density the better (up to a point), because a larger screen at the same resolution = more immersion without having to push more pixels = more immersion without having to buy a faster super expensive GPU. Say you have a 34" or 37.5" ultrawide at 120ppi (pixels/inch) that means if you ever have to drop back to say 2560x1440 or 1080p in order to run a new AAA game fast enough, the picture will be tiny when displayed 1:1. And 1:1 is always preferred because upscaling simply always looks like butt to anyone outside of Joe Average the console noob. If you have a 91-93 ppi 2560x1440 @ 31.5 - 32", that picture is much larger than 2560x1440 on a high ppi ultrawide, but you're getting the same framerate. The lower density creates somewhat bigger jaggies but antialiasing takes care of that anyway. And let's also keep in mind Windows expects 96ppi per default and we're already calling 110 standard nowadays on monitors. Some games don't scale their UIs, especially older ones, e.g. X3:Terran Conflict's universe map is tiny on a high density display and there's nothing you can do to fix that other than avoid high density displays which includes all 34, 35 and 38" ultrawides on the market today.

I mentioned 1440p at 31.5 - 32" as options for a comfortable 91-93 ppi. By now there's a large number of those on the market but they're all freesync instead of g-sync. Which means they have problems with overshoot at lower fps and you'll have to manually change overdrive settings to match that. There is only one VA type arguably fast enough to mitigate that issue and that would be the ridiculously strongly curved 32" Samsung C7. To me, even that's got obvious issues with darks in motion that I see in every scene, so VA at 32" is off the table. So it'd have to be IPS but if I'm moving from 27" IPS with g-sync module to a mildly larger 31.5" with freesync that doesn't feel like much of an upgrade, now does it....

That's where the 43" came in, its ppi is a little high, requiring font scaling, but not massively so, as its ppi around 102 falls inbetween QHD at 32" and the ultrawides. On top of that, the 4K panel allows you to create any custom resolution you want, be it 16:9 or ultrawide. You can even create a 3860x1600 custom resolution very easily to get that ultrawide experience and the image will be even a bit larger than it would've been on a 38" ultrawide. The pixel density is low enough that you can display 3440x1440 when in a pinch and it won't be super tiny. I also play pinball for which portrait mode is ideal, as pinball tables are long and narrow, the opposite of wide. An ultrawide can't be rotated into portrait mode because one, the curve makes it weird and two, it typically would be mounted too low to be able to rotate without hitting your desk. A 27" or 32" can do it but even more ideal is to just make a custom vertical resolution on a 43" 4K monitor and not have to physically rotate the monitor at all. The flexibility of 4K at 43 to 48" is just insane. You almost get some of the flexibility back that you used to have with CRT monitors when you could pick any resolution you wanted. And you get the desktop real estate on top of that. And the ability to view 16:9 content without black bars. It can do everything an ultrawide can do, while an ultrawide can't do everything an FV43U can do.
I like you have been hunting for the perfect monitor to suit all my needs to finally be the one to rule them all. I finally found it in the FV43U. I love it & would buy it again!
 

Roen

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 7, 2021
Messages
99
Have you considered an OLED? Seems like a 48" model, whether it's an LG C1 or the Gigabyte FO48U would be more or less what you're looking for.
I have. With the amount of web browsing I do and other software that stays in the same position for hours on end each day the burn-in would be fast and merciless. 48" while better (lower) pixel density for my use case is a bit too big for me to accomodate given the shape and size of the room. From the looks of things, large 43" monitors are the current frontier and will see many improvements in the years to come.
 

xDiVolatilX

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 24, 2021
Messages
1,202
Have you considered an OLED? Seems like a 48" model, whether it's an LG C1 or the Gigabyte FO48U would be more or less what you're looking for.
I just returned the 2021 model LGC1 last month. Unhappy with it. Didn't suit my needs. Too big. Lower PPI. Burn in risk. Lower refresh rate. ABL was unacceptable. No displayport. No DSC. To much bloatware. Don't need any of It's TV features because we have 4k TVs in all other rooms. Needed a real dedicated monitor.

The FV43U checks all my boxes. I love it.
 
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