CM Hyper 212+ - Alternative G34 Mounting Method

Core32

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I might have some spare brackets for the 2nd fan, how many do you need?

Thanks for the offer.
Due to my slack memory, let me check my CM retail boxes first to see if they have the second set waiting for me :)
 

Core32

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My boxes came with a second set of brackets for a second fan. Those 6180SE CPUs getting warm?

A little warmer than the 6128s did for sure!
Still running just under 50C, all cores, full load, but just barely.
I bought some fans with double the normal CFM of the stock 212 fans but temps actually went up a bit :confused:
I need to check the pressure rating but I "thought" they were rated quite a bit higher as well.
Only difference is these are not variable speed so they only use the 3-pin plug.
Since I still have the replaced stock fans I plan to add them to these new ones in push-pull config to see what difference that makes.
 

402blownstroker

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Still running just under 50C, all cores, full load, but just barely.

You should be good there. My 6166HEs at 2.26GHz ( OC 250 ) are running between 48C and 51C across all nodes. I think most of the 6100 series Opterons have a max thermal rating of around 65C.

The 6166HEs with Dynron A6s at stock clocking ran low 50s.
 

Core32

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Cool. Every box had a set of extra brackets. Thanks Oilman!
Though some only had 3 extra screws. With 12 sets though I had plenty to mount the 3 extra fans.
Since I'm in a server chassis the 4th fan is too close to the case wall.
Have not figured out how to add a second fan to that one.
 

wdethomas

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Will this work with 6386SE Cpus? They are 140watt CPUs. I see in the pics that the heatsink does not cover the CPU completely. Will that be an issue??
 

musky

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Will this work with 6386SE Cpus? They are 140watt CPUs. I see in the pics that the heatsink does not cover the CPU completely. Will that be an issue??

This should be fine for 63xx CPUs also.
 
D

Deleted member 12106

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Neat trick I learned:

Keep the studs longer and tap the holes out. Say you have a fully loaded GL board and need to swap cpu 1, you can hold nut with needle nose and turn stud from bottom.

Another thought I may try on next 4p is rather than regular hex nut, use a nylock nut then just turn screw from bottom with fingers.
 

AXm77

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Best thing about Musky method: it is cheap, but if you "got lucky" and have to remove it and install back couple times in a row..... :eek:

Some teaser for "lucky ones" ;)

212-1.JPG


212-2.JPG


212-3.JPG


212-4.JPG


212-5.JPG
 

musky

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I just figured out the beauty of that design, although it requires some forethought when mounting the outer bracket to the board. Nice design!
 
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Great mod! I setup my H8QGi/6 with four 212+ single fan only. I was wondering how much of a temp difference it would make if I had dual fans per 212+?
 

musky

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Great mod! I setup my H8QGi/6 with four 212+ single fan only. I was wondering how much of a temp difference it would make if I had dual fans per 212+?

Sadly, I have no idea. My temps never got over 50C, so there was really no point in adding a second. Checking the Overclocking and Colling forum, I don't see any data on 1 fan versus 2 for a 212+. The results should really be no different for this application than they would be for a single proc system. The only additional factor we are dealing with is having one HSF blow into another HSF, but the relative second fan difference should still hold true.
 
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With my quad 6166he, i'm seeing temps of 35-43C at full load with no overclocking. Maybe getting higher cfm fans would bring down the temps some.
 
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Since I didn't want to modify my mb or bolts, I screwed the hex nuts into the bolts, put the springs in as well, put the bolts with the 212+ onto the mb, and slowly moved the hex nuts down. I used 1 1/2' bolts instead of 2'.

Close up
Side view
 
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tsubasa hanekawa

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Best thing about Musky method: it is cheap, but if you "got lucky" and have to remove it and install back couple times in a row..... :eek:

Some teaser for "lucky ones" ;)

212-1.JPG


212-2.JPG


212-3.JPG


212-4.JPG


212-5.JPG


sorry to have dug up an old post but is this actually a thing that could be done to order? wouldn't surprise me if it isn't but if it is i could do with a few for an upcoming build :p
 
D

Deleted member 12106

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My only concern with that method is you are not using spring tension to clamp the heat sink on, you could tweak the board or socket if you go too crazy. However with an acorn nut you are limited on depth.
 

tsubasa hanekawa

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My only concern with that method is you are not using spring tension to clamp the heat sink on, you could tweak the board or socket if you go too crazy. However with an acorn nut you are limited on depth.

id have thought the same, my dad thinks it seems doable looking at it (he was a mechanical engineer for most of his career) and he said a similar thing about the depth of the nut, seems a sound mounting system i must say though :)
 
D

Deleted member 12106

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Yeah I used nylocks and threaded the screw from the bottom up. Could swap chips and replace coolers in under 15min in my prime:eek:
 

AXm77

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Wow! I forgot about that thread. Mountings working problems free, from time of posting
but guess what - I never have to disassemble heatsinks again...
@tsubasa hanekawa - If you are interested, shoot me PM, we cant talk about details.
 

tsubasa hanekawa

Limp Gawd
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Wow! I forgot about that thread. Mountings working problems free, from time of posting
but guess what - I never have to disassemble heatsinks again...
@tsubasa hanekawa - If you are interested, shoot me PM, we cant talk about details.


Still rather interested in this, ill finish up some tasks and send you off a PM as you say, many thanks for the reply.
 

tsubasa hanekawa

Limp Gawd
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Wow! I forgot about that thread. Mountings working problems free, from time of posting
but guess what - I never have to disassemble heatsinks again...
@tsubasa hanekawa - If you are interested, shoot me PM, we cant talk about details.


sent, few days off but it's all sent
 

bowlinra

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Yeah I used nylocks and threaded the screw from the bottom up. Could swap chips and replace coolers in under 15min in my prime:eek:

Got a pic? sounds like this is a real time saver, not meantion saving my knuckles...
 
D

Deleted member 82943

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sorry to necro this thread but I will have a quad g34 setup soon and the hyper 212 evo's are awesome! I use one on my am3+ setup but this cooler doesn't cover the whole rectangular chip...
 

Patriot

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sorry to necro this thread but I will have a quad g34 setup soon and the hyper 212 evo's are awesome! I use one on my am3+ setup but this cooler doesn't cover the whole rectangular chip...

Doesn't need to. Cools it just fine. The IHS spreads the heat out from the dies (MCM) you just need to cover above the dies.
If I recall most of the people with 240 bus clocks are using those... (stock is 200)
 
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tsubasa hanekawa

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Doesn't need to. Cools it just fine. The IHS spreads the heat out from the dies (MCM) you just need to cover above the dies.
If I recall most of the people with 240 bus clocks are using those... (stock is 200)

ill keep that in mind when i get an opty rig goung when i start my apprenticeship (had nothing but setbacks, once im on a proper income ill be set XD)
 
D

Deleted member 88227

Guest
Don't mean to bump an old thread, but it seems the formatting has been screwed up somehow.

I need the 8 bolts or whatever to mount the 212+ to the motherboard now. The setup I bought already had the heatsinks modded with the custom hardware, but now I have no way to attach them to the motherboard. Pictures don't seem to work and the pictures I have seen don't really show.

G34 4P Supermicro Pics

These pictures show the cooler is mounted either from the bottom up or using all-thread with some nuts/washers for spacing.

What do I need?

2rbmLUjh.jpg


DiXYc26h.jpg
 
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Shadowarez

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Hate raise a necro thread but its my turn I need proper tools to replace a CPU in my server it's going to be duel 6380 Amd opterons. But removing coolers is going be tricky without right tools.
 

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D

Deleted member 88227

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All you need is a wrench to remove the nuts. I don't remember what size it was. Maybe 3/8 or 1/4? Possibly 5/16.

Popping the fans off the heatsinks will make it easier.
 

Shadowarez

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Yeah the 5.5 socket in ifixit kit is too small to get it I can see if cdn tire has som kinda kit.
 

Shadowarez

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I'll attempt to show em pics see what suggestions they have I'll get both wrenches and socket set with a long thin extention.
 

ChelseaOilman

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I had a cheap wrench that was just stamped out of steel. Might have come from one of my heatsinks. What I did was bend the end of the wrench at about a 45 degree angle so he head of the wrench could fit on the nut with the handle more or less pointing up. The musky mod is better suited for boards not in a case.
 

Shadowarez

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Yeah it'll be what was planning $34 for a set I'll do same board is out and will be on a box while taking the heatsinks off.
 
D

Deleted member 12106

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Hell even a pliers or shitty locking pliers should do the trick. No where in my tool box or vocab does a hex(nylock) nut 'require a special tool'.
 
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D

Deleted member 12106

Guest
Yep, you should have a head on the other side of the board and use its drive to hold it in place, or it is threaded into board standoffs. Een with a box end wrench you are still turning them off at like 1/4 turn each. Just, relax and calm down while sipping your fave brew :)
 

Shadowarez

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Haha ty for the idea that'll make worrying bout stripping them go away and I'll be nice way spend days off. I'll post build log as this board is going into a Cosmos 2 case.
 
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