Checking in with my Ender3 pro

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335

1582931343394.png


Jaw:
scale: 80%
quality: 0.16mm
infill: 20% cubic
w/ brim
3h 22m

Skull:
scale: 80%
quality: 0.16mm
infill: 20% cubic
w/ brim
7h 8m

Base
scale: 80%
quality: 0.2mm

Peg at 75% scale
 
So I ended up getting the Ender 3 Pro.

After using up most of my starter/sample filament, one thing I KNOW I want, is ABL.
This means I will need to upgrade my mainboard. I am having trouble deciding between the TH3D EZboard Lite v1.2, or the SKR Mini E3. I will admit, the $80-$90 price difference is a strong favor for the BigTreeTech.
And after that decision will be whether I go with BLTouch or EZABL.

Any suggestions/thoughts?
 
Kelvarr said:
So I ended up getting the Ender 3 Pro.

After using up most of my starter/sample filament, one thing I KNOW I want, is ABL.
This means I will need to upgrade my mainboard. I am having trouble deciding between the TH3D EZboard Lite v1.2, or the SKR Mini E3. I will admit, the $80-$90 price difference is a strong favor for the BigTreeTech.
And after that decision will be whether I go with BLTouch or EZABL.

Any suggestions/thoughts?
Click to expand...
I have the skr mini and it works great so far. Rediculously quiet after the swap
 
Kelvarr - I have the SKR Mini E3 v1.2 It's worked like a peach. It does have the option for sensors.

I haven't cared that much to get into auto bed leveling. I would defer to the pros on their comparison.
 
Tinkering with a few things to keep me active.

Printing out the 'astrolabicon' here as I can find the small magnets at home depot for cheap.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3042146

Also created my first 'random idea to printed concept in under 30 minutes' using TinkerCad. Looking to make MOLLE compatible holder for my trekking poles. Version 1 was a surprising success. Already going to beef it up with v2 and the what not. Woohoo.
 
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3" moon from here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2955930

No support, dropped the model down -3mm to clear up oddities in the model.

0.16mm detail
No support
100% infill (it's hollow so the infill goes into the detail like a lithograph print)

Cura said 11.5hr, but it was more along the lines of 9hr.
 
Jammed a single neopixel up the hole and came out pretty decent. Visually looks better, but my phone's got weird on picking up colors when blasted in RGB.

For the differently visioned - top to bottom, left to right.

R0: red, green, blue
R1: yellow, purple, teal
R2: orange, pink, dark red


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Just got some MGN12H rails for my Y axis. The wheels on my pro are starting to wear, and I enjoy precision.

Should be installed within the next week once I find some time. I'll post some images once it's done.
 
mwarps said:
Just got some MGN12H rails for my Y axis. The wheels on my pro are starting to wear, and I enjoy precision.

Should be installed within the next week once I find some time. I'll post some images once it's done.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to hearing about your results! I've been considering going to a rail system and ditching the wheels.
 
Made a slightly narrow door, but for version 1.0, not bad. Friction fit the base to the door in a good guesstimate.

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More doors. *chuckles in Uruk-hai * 28mm scale terrain's getting a little easier.

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Then a set of Woot.com's BOC and Vestibules of Patience. One of the BOC is a mimic.

FMqTO9N.jpg

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Making a 'dumpster fire' for 2020..

I am hand designing a 'fire-looking-cap' to go over the candle, but 90% of the way done.

Material:
- primerfiller and some sanding.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-11-oz-Gray-Filler-Primer-Spray-249279/202097276
- Rustoleum 2x green and black.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-334039/307244868
- GE flickering LED
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-StayBri...n-Tall-Battery-Operated-Tea-Lights/1003313214
- Thick armature wire for the lid.

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Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:950602
Note - size everything up by 140% in cura to get a small LED flickering tea candle to fit.
 
Making these lil fellers from Among Us for a few christmas gifts, and ran into a plot twist.

The snag is where the model maker decided to make the visors detachable for zero reason. Printed one helmet off and one visor at stock size and no fit was found. Instead of leaving an angry comment on thingiverse I opted to go and flip it all in Blender to merge the visor to models.

Go-go-gadget knowledgebase!

p4rYCpu.png

Initial files:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4595212
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631692
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4608524
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4608518
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4604523
 
My first major disappointment after a year or so of printing. I figured I would get onto the trendy things to print from May 2020 after letting my printer sit for sometime.

There ended up a wonky layer shift early on and some failed supports. The bulk is baby smooth those so that's a plus.

I think I may have left my printer alone too long and should have loosened the x gantry belt. Bleh.



Hatchbox white PLA.
~16 hours.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4661499
 
Finally had some time to dial in PETG on my ender3. Got the stringing way down, and running some tests now. Benchie to come :-p
 
Painting mostly done.. a bit of touch up, some grimey wash, and that's about it. Just waiting for a day that's not -40 degree windchill to clear coat.

 
I just purchased this today and put it all together. I went thru a few things on how to level the bed but I am running into another issue with it.

I did a test print of a ring and set the quality to low so it wouldn't take that long. When it starts printing though, it goes to the middle and starts "printing" a few MM above the table so it's just putting the material all over the place. For the test print, I ended up pushing down on the bar so that it would come in contact with the table in order to print on the table. I started another test and same thing.

How can I fix this? I want to use this for home, but also for work as well.
 
obviouslytom - A few things.

What material?
Which STL?
What settings were you using?
Do you have a picture of what it was looking like?
Did you use the paper test method on all four corners - and center - for bed leveling?
 
modi123 said:
obviouslytom - A few things.

What material?
Which STL?
What settings were you using?
Do you have a picture of what it was looking like?
Did you use the paper test method on all four corners - and center - for bed leveling?
Click to expand...
I am new to all this so I will answer the best I can.

The material is the standard PLA.
I don't know what you mean by STL
I was using the default settings in the software and ok the system.
I will get a picture tomorrow for you.
I did see a video on the paper test and did that on the conners and center and got it to where there was some mild resistance when I pulled the paper.

I also saw another video about the assembly process so I will loosen some things up, realign and see if they helps.
 
obviouslytom said:
I don't know what you mean by STL
Click to expand...
The 3d model file being opened in your slicer program to create the GCODE file for the printer.
obviouslytom said:
I was using the default settings in the software and ok the system.
Click to expand...
Which software?
obviouslytom said:
I will get a picture tomorrow for you.
I did see a video on the paper test and did that on the conners and center and got it to where there was some mild resistance when I pulled the paper.
Click to expand...
Nope, you most likely need more resistance.
obviouslytom said:
I also saw another video about the assembly process so I will loosen some things up, realign and see if they helps.
Click to expand...
You may want to run a few calibration checking prints.

ex: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714033
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2599785
https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/blog/2019/05/03/ender-3-bed-leveling-3d-printer/
 
modi123 said:
The 3d model file being opened in your slicer program to create the GCODE file for the printer.

Which software?

Nope, you most likely need more resistance.

You may want to run a few calibration checking prints.

ex: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714033
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2599785
https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/blog/2019/05/03/ender-3-bed-leveling-3d-printer/
Click to expand...
The slicer program I am using is the one that came with the printer, the Creality Slicer.

How much resistance would I want using the paper method? I raised up the table again since it was too low again and ran another print. When it started, it wouldn't stick to the surface. I have no idea what I am doing wrong.
There was one test print I ran that just does a series of large squares. The head moves on the X axis 235mm and when it goes that far, instead of being on the edge of the bed, its well past it.
 
I use Cura, set the printer my Ender 3 so it had the dimensions down, and went about plugging info in for the filament.

As for the paper test like it should be quite a bit on a heated bed (don't do it on a cold bed as metal changes when heated and what not). As in you can pull the paper out from underneath and back in with one hand but it should be giving noticeable grab.. It should really really squish that filament down.

Honestly, out of the gate, futzing with getting a feel for leveling is 90% of the battle.
 
I did another paper one and had it where the paper barely moved out. Preheated everything and then ran a test. As you can see, it's not sticking and one side is off the bed.

20210315_233927.jpg



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obviouslytom - Ok.. so you need to fix your printer settings first. There should be a setting to seslect the printer type, or set the x/y/z max size. Fix that.

Next - filament.. when you say 'standard PLA' that not good.. Make and brand?

Also what temperatures are you usuing for your bed and nozzle? Those typically change with filament brands, colors, types, etc.

If you are on the hardforum discord I'm on right now for more immediate back and forth.
 
the filament type is Inland PLA 1.75mm 3d printing filament, White. I just checked the side label and it said that printing temp needs to be 215-230. I had the nozzle at 200, which was the default, so I bumped it to 222. I will see if that makes a difference. The bed temp is 60. I am running another test and it seems to be working better, although it appears the material is thin and stringy. I am basing that off of some chart I saw about print quality.

As for the bed size, I have it set in the software since it asked for the specific printer.

I need to get on the H discord. I will install it tomorrow night and jump on
 
obviouslytom said:
it said that printing temp needs to be 215-230. I had the nozzle at 200, which was the default, so I bumped it to 222.
Click to expand...
With not-previously-used filament I typically print a temperature tower or fiddle with test squares from the minimum and incrementing by 5 degrees until I find something that works well.

Having the nozzle in the ballpark - it's not an exact science - is key to bed adhesion.

If your printer is trying to print outside the bounds then something ain't right with the sizing. Cura, which I use, typically tries to keep a 10mm buffer as a warning zone.
 
I may have to exchange the printer because I turned it on when I got home and it gave me an error that said "homing failed" and to reset it. I have gone thru all the connections and nothing works
 
obviouslytom - That's an odd issue I haven't hit. Cursory search has a few ways to test the end stops (manually triggering them with your finger), or even swapping the x and y wires.
 
modi123 said:
obviouslytom - That's an odd issue I haven't hit. Cursory search has a few ways to test the end stops (manually triggering them with your finger), or even swapping the x and y wires.
Click to expand...
Tried all that with no luck. I took it to microcenter earlier tonight and they exchanged it with no questions. I will set it up again tomorrow and I will also go thru this video to double check everything I am doing.

 
obviouslytom - that's a good video, I dig that youtuber, and it was a good reference. Though I primarily used this one when building mine:
 
If you don't have one already, get yourself a multi-meter. You will need it along the way and it will help you fix your own problems when future ones show up. As an fyi, a homing failed comes from either endstop is triggered when it tries to move, or it doesnt see an endstop trigger after a set period of time (something like 10-15 seconds).

These are low end printers and will come with problems, as linked above it is good to familiarize yourself because you will need to fix them on your own at some point.

That said, welcome to the hobby!
 
Last edited:
Darunion said:
get yourself a multi-meter. You will need it along the way
Click to expand...
So far hadn't had a need for one of those yet, or know when to use them if I need to.

Ugh.. time to go watch some of the youtubez.
 
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