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Mine is perfect, no bleed, no dead pixels, just perfect. I have a 32 right next to it now( all be it 1440P) if only I had a screen that was 49 inches wide but 1600p Nirvana I say.Probably going to box up the AW3821DW and return it, and I'm back on my AW3420DW that I have custom calibrated and the picture looks at good as I can get this type of display to be, punchy colors, and decent blacks.
The AW3821DW had really bad backlight bleeding, like in dark scenes and even booting up Windows and the the black screen would be dark grey on the sides, and very light grey in the middle. not even remotely BLACK, but grey to light grey.. Don't know why, but this 3420 seems to have deeper richer colors than the 3821.
Anyways, I'll wait for the AW3423DW to come back in stock one day at Microcenter, both stores near me always show it Sold Out lately
Oh yeah, the size difference between the 34" and 38", yes the 38" is nicer no question, but honestly, between the two not a night and day difference, I had my 38" pushed further back on the desk to be able to see the sides better, but with the 34" I move it closer towards me, and now there's barely much difference to me, size wise. But 3440 X 1440 is much easier to crank out high FPS than it is on the 38", but really it was the washed out look on the 38" everything seemed very light, no matter what settings I adjusted or tried custom ICC profiles, I couldn't get it to look as vibrant or deep as the 3420. Oh well, I guess I'll wait for the OLED.
Mine is perfect, no bleed, no dead pixels, just perfect. I have a 32 right next to it now( all be it 1440P) if only I had a screen that was 49 inches wide but 1600p Nirvana I say.
I said it before and I'll say it again, the 38" 21:9 form factor is absolutely perfect imo. Its a shame that it hasnt taken off at all. 3840x1600 is a fantastic resolution, but i feel the 38" size could also easily handle 5120x2160 too.
You also have the AW38?
Yeah the size and curve of this display is darn near perfect I just love itPlus 21:9 aspect ratio blows away 16:9
Thanks. What about Dark Stabilizer setting?
And for World of Warcraft I tried it in Windows 11 HDR off and it looked so much nicer. For some reason with HDR on in Windows 11 and playing Warcraft game got too bright in some areas and looked off. And general desktop use looks much sharper and nicer with HDR off on this monitor.
But on the flip side, playing Halo Infinite with HDR off looked kinda dull, it didn't have that super cool look like HDR gives, but Halo looked amazing on the Asus ROG 42 OLED, that monitor made the game look insane.
So for gaming what Visual Backlight mode? And what Dark Stabilizer setting?
Respond Time: Fast. Is that good setting?
Game Enhance mode: Off. Is that ok?
It's better than 21:9 actually, it's 24:10, meaning 2.4:1. I not only find that is a really great ratio, but it is something you find a non-trivial amount of media in. 2.39:1 is a REALLY common anamorphic movie format, both Panavision and Cinemascope make lenses for it and 2.4:1 is common for digital shooting, for example Wanda Vision is 2.4:1 in the "modern" scenes.You also have the AW38?
Yeah the size and curve of this display is darn near perfect I just love itPlus 21:9 aspect ratio blows away 16:9
Could be the gsync module failing.
I was just thinking that the Gsync only uses displayport and how you mentioned the problem goes away on HDMI. Maybe they power supply is bad. Turning on puts the most stain on it, especially if there's a bad capacitor that isn't holding a charge.Yeah I suppose. Does the GSync module do anything when you are just on the desktop and not in a game? Is there any reason why that would cause the display to have issues on the desktop at 120Hz and 144Hz but not 100Hz and below?
What's interesting is that once it's working fine, it will continue to work fine until I reboot again. That includes a LOT of gaming where the GSync module would be active. As long as I don't reboot, it's fine.
During testing last night I also noticed another odd quirk. If I leave one of my secondary monitors set as the primary monitor, then it will reboot fine in many cases. But I did not test it enough times to know if that is a real trend or if I just got lucky a few times. It might be because the login screen pops up on whichever screen is set as primary.
I notice that right before the login screen appears, the monitor makes an audible sound that almost reminds me of the sound an old CRT makes when you first turn it on.
GSync actually seems to work fine on HDMI. Although it's possible that it's using Adaptive Sync (aka Freesync/"GSync Compatible") instead of the actual module, I'm not really sure.I was just thinking that the Gsync only uses displayport and how you mentioned the problem goes away on HDMI.
Maybe it is a power supply issue. That's as good as any guess I have right now. I don't think it's a dust issue though, since I've only had it about a month. I don't think it's a temperature issue since much of my testing has been done at night with indoor temperatures in the mid-60's (Fahrenheit). It never gets above 80 in my room.A failing power supply is indeed the cause of a lot of monitor problems. (e.g. monitor going blank or rebooting when Brightness is near 100%, a defective strobe-backlight voltage-booster, or executing high-power features such as a HDR-boost or a G-SYNC module, etc).
Try canned air to dust (creates better power supply performance), a cooler room, at higher air conditioning, while setting brightness to 0%. See if it causes more time to failure. This could provide clearer signals of a power deficit.
If still under warranty, RMA can be done.
Yeah unfortunately i've tested it on 3 different PCs using multiple different cables at this point.It sounds like DP is only the issue in that it allows higher hz @ native res (based on your testing notes), or basically when you max out bandwidth. If you could max it out with HDMI you may have experienced the same issue there. If it’s not the cable it’s either the monitor or video card and I’d bet on monitor. Any chance you can test it on a different PC to verify? That would confirm it for an RMA.