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I like discussing the 42” OLED market segment, but why are we comparing what’s arguably the pinnacle of image quality for the masses with shitbox TN panels? I would just think that someone in the market for one would not be in the market for the other… OLED is more than fast enough if you aren’t getting paid to play IMO.
OLED has incredibly low pixel response times but a good chunk higher input lag than the fastest "gaming" monitors these days, which have almost negligible input lag. While the TN would have more motion blur it might "feel" more responsive.
At your breaker box how many amps is the breaker feeding that electrical run that feeds the gaming den?
For what it's worth, I've had my 48CX plugged into a 1,500 VA CyberPower UPS and have had no such issues with either it or my previous 55B7.
Looks great! Is there anything on the horizon that could replace it? Seems like you switch displays several times per year. I'm not sure if you're constantly searching for the best or if you just like variety.42C2 working great on my setup. 42" is a nice spot for distance from eyes, desk space and immersion. Now I just have to do some tiding up of cables etc. The poor G8 hanging out in the back.
Your experience helps when you drop into these threads, though.For what it's worth, I've had my 48CX plugged into a 1,500 VA CyberPower UPS and have had no such issues with either it or my previous 55B7.
Looks great! Is there anything on the horizon that could replace it? Seems like you switch displays several times per year. I'm not sure if you're constantly searching for the best or if you just like variety.
If I remember correctly, the electrician said 15 amps. Note that I do have a 32 core threadripper with an nvidia 3090 in it. Roughly the same specs I use for work. The other machine is an AMD 5800 with a 2080. We each have two 32" monitors (total of 4).
then for laptop or tablet running OLED screen, how many hr. of usage do we lost vs. the current laop / tablet of the same size
Anything over 1800 watts is going to trip that breaker, and that is 1800 watts on the whole run, so whenever the breaker flips and power is lost, whatever is down at that time is on that same run and cannot go over 1800 watts at any time or it will trip that breaker.
That's a hard pass for me if they still use the crappy triangle RGB subpixel for 2nd gen QD-OLED
I think it was hit and miss on the 48 CX I tried 2 years ago. What helps is if it's the only display connected and you do a bios reset after., not sure why.
Same, FWIW.
Never had that issue with my CX 48". BIOS showed up just fine even if its resolution was wonky. If you mean it takes longer to start up and gets past the BIOS screen then just keep hitting whatever key gets you to BIOS (F2 or Del usually) and it should work. I'm using a Gigabyte X570 mITX board with a 2080 Ti.
Most BIOS will pick integrated GPU outputs -> discrete GPU HDMI -> discrete GPU DisplayPort as the input order to use but this might be selectable on some boards. So if you have other displays connected it might try to display it on one of those.
Yeah for me it always shows up on one of my other screens. I'm pretty sure I have seen it when I only had my OLED connected though.
How do you feel about the size difference and the effect on PPI for desktop use? Did you use different scaling levels on them? What about text quality?
Tbh I don't see many issues with WRGB subpixels even on a 65" OLED when looking at it from a really close distance. So I wouldn't worry about text quality on a 42" one.
They have already announced 49 and 77 inch models for 2023 so I would think they would have announced 42 as well if it was coming in 2023.
I have a CX 48" and it's definitely there for 100% scaling on Windows. MacOS text rendering is different and has no real problems in this regard. On Windows using DPI scaling and adjusting RGB contrast with Better Cleartype Tuner does a good job for mitigating it.
Exactly. Nothing stands near a self emissive OLED in scenes like that, in games I notice this advantage quite often, and when I do - I know, it looks really special
No bloom, only the lit object precisely. 
Haha, I'm in the same boat...love both panels. Aw34 is liquid butter smooth and C2 is so immersive....hard to choose!
You're one of 8 people interested in BFI along with the 12 that used it on the CX/C1.
