N4CR
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2011
- Messages
- 4,947
Seems enough to make 175hz pretty moot.So the C2 trounces the Alienware in input lag?
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Seems enough to make 175hz pretty moot.So the C2 trounces the Alienware in input lag?
So the C2 trounces the Alienware in input lag?
For all forms of LCDs, Response Time (typically measured in "best case" Grey-to-Grey transition times) measures how long it physically takes a pixel to chance state to reflect a new image. So essentially, Response Time measures the delay between when the display receives a new image to the screen and when it actually gets displayed by the pixels.I think so. 175Hz is a frametime of 5.71ms while 120Hz is a frametime of 8.33ms so you are suppose to be seeing a new frame on the Alienware 2.62ms sooner than you would on the LG C2 assuming both displays have 0ms of input lag, but since the Alienware has about ~4ms more input lag than the C2 I guess that means you aren't actually seeing a new frame sooner but rather later than the C2 because 2.62ms refresh rate advantage - 4ms input lag? Someone correct me if this is not at all how this works because I'm just guessing lol.
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Where is this new monitor announcement? Is it different than the C2 line?The newly announced LG 48" OLED monitor that has a 138hz OC is curious because 137hz is exactly how high my 42 C2 would go before blanking out. Displays it fine but frame skips.
Where is this new monitor announcement? Is it different than the C2 line?
Nice! This totally is something I would want. Father of little kids, I have no desire for smart anything. This would be perfect for us.https://www.techpowerup.com/295248/...aming-monitors-including-48-inch-oled-version
It's completely different because it's not a TV at all but more of a regular monitor so you won't be dealing with a bunch of post processing things and smart apps. Now all the people who whine about their TV's not having monitor features/behaviors can just buy this instead, although Gigabyte has been doing this for a while already. LG is just late to the party with using their own OLED panels for a monitor.
https://www.techpowerup.com/295248/...aming-monitors-including-48-inch-oled-version
It's completely different because it's not a TV at all but more of a regular monitor so you won't be dealing with a bunch of post processing things and smart apps. Now all the people who whine about their TV's not having monitor features/behaviors can just buy this instead, although Gigabyte has been doing this for a while already. LG is just late to the party with using their own OLED panels for a monitor.
This is my solution. I rolled up some some of that cord concealment foam and shoved it under the power button where the remove sensor is. It blocks the signal enough that if the remote isn't close and directly pointed it won't turn it on.Got one of these from Costco, it arrived today. I grabbed a VIVO adapter and put it on my Ergotron LX. It supports it fine and gets it up off the desk a bit. Still feels pretty huge, will need to see if I'll get used to it.
Someone asked about remotes conflicting with each other. I can confirm this happens. I have a 55 C9 behind me in the same room and the power button on each remote affects both displays.
I don't get it. Can't all the post processing be disabled on the 42 inch TV? Why is this 48 inch monitor superior. It makes no sense since 48 it pretty much universally panned as being too big for desktop usage.https://www.techpowerup.com/295248/...aming-monitors-including-48-inch-oled-version
It's completely different because it's not a TV at all but more of a regular monitor so you won't be dealing with a bunch of post processing things and smart apps. Now all the people who whine about their TV's not having monitor features/behaviors can just buy this instead, although Gigabyte has been doing this for a while already. LG is just late to the party with using their own OLED panels for a monitor.
It's superior because it has DPI don't get it. Can't all the post processing be disabled on the 42 inch TV? Why is this 48 inch monitor superior. It makes no sense since 48 it pretty much universally panned as being too big for desktop usage.
DP 2.0 would be superiorIt's superior because it has DP
DP 2.0 would be superior
The are universal yes, but your mount may or may not have the VESA mount size to match your monitor. You will have to check the mount specs to see if the sizes it accomodates is the same as the C2.Dumb question. VESA mounts are universal in size, correct? So if I had say a very old IPS monitor no longer in use that happened to come with a killer VESA stand (it telescopes, tilts, ect), is there any reason why i wouldn't be able to just pull that off and stick it on this 42 inch C2?
Another question, is the C2 light enough that pretty much any VESA monitor arm for a desk will be compatible?
Just to add, VESA pattern sizes for TV and monitor mounts are typically: 50 x 50mm, 75 x 75mm, 100 x 100mm, 200 x 200mm, 300 x 200mm, 300 x 300mm, 400 x 200mm, 400 x 300mm, or 400 x 400mm. Adapter plates are pretty cheap (~$13) if you don't have an exact match. The 42" C2 only weighs ~20lbs, so it is fairly light given its size. It uses a 300 x 200mm VESA mount.The are universal yes, but your mount may or may not have the VESA mount size to match your monitor. You will have to check the mount specs to see if the sizes it accommodates is the same as the C2.
120hz is not fast enough for OLED. The pixels are so fast that I can see the individual frames making for that choppy feeling.
I just received mine yesterday and so far I am really impressed. I have mine back roughly 27" and so far that works pretty well. I have a stand on order that should allow me to push to monitor back another inch or so. As for the watermark I strongly suspect you have a program on your machine that is applying the watermark. Evidence leading me to this conclusion is 1) is happens with multiple monitors 2) it goes away if you have a window open. Do you have a picture or video desktop background program you are using? As for 120hz, it could be that the newer LG models are pickier about the cable you use. I have not had any issues with 120 hz, though I do have a 3090 and I am using the game optimizer mode.So I have something to share, and then a call for help.
I wanted to share my new setup with the LG 42. Pardon the wire mess, and 10 year old mouse pad/food mat (I have a new one on the way from Amazon).
FYI, the desk measures 72 by approximately 40 (approximately because it's life edge along the length of the table). I have my monitor placed about 31 inches from the end of the desk, which is about perfect. Previously I had a 48 inch that was placed near the back around 36 inches. If you're wondering why I "upgraded" from a 48" with such a deep desk, two reasons. One is I had a small room in need of a TV anyway where I could move the 48, and 2 is the 48 LG CX was still never ideal for the space, and I ended up craning my neck while gaming and had less desk space than I wanted.
Now for the two problems:
1. In the first two photos you'll notice an alarming water mark in the center of the screen. The intensity varies based on which picture mode I select, but is often there. This is not actually burned into the screen but has something to do with settings. It goes away entirely, for example, if I open a browser window, even a browser window with an entirely black background. It literally only shows up when the screen acts as a desktop background, and in certain situations, but nevertheless bothers me. Here's the weird thing. It's not unique to this TV. I had the same thing happen on my 48 inch OLED. Has this happened to anyone else, and do you know what's causing it?
2. I can't get 120 hz, with the same graphics card and cable as I did on the 48", even without HDR turned on. I've tried updating the HDMI output to "PC", I've tried right clicking on display settings, both in windows and the Nvidia control panel. I've tried scrolling everywhere, and it's not listed as an option. I ordered a new HDMI cable for good measure today to see if that has any impact. I have a GTX 2080. Again, I was able to run 120 hz on the 48 inch LG CX without issues, without HDR albeit. Now if I turn off HDR, there's still no option anywhere to select 120 hz. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the move from 40 GBPS to 48 GBPS?
Thanks in advance.
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I just received mine yesterday and so far I am really impressed. I have mine back roughly 27" and so far that works pretty well. I have a stand on order that should allow me to push to monitor back another inch or so. As for the watermark I strongly suspect you have a program on your machine that is applying the watermark. Evidence leading me to this conclusion is 1) is happens with multiple monitors 2) it goes away if you have a window open. Do you have a picture or video desktop background program you are using? As for 120hz, it could be that the newer LG models are pickier about the cable you use. I have not had any issues with 120 hz, though I do have a 3090 and I am using the game optimizer mode.
It's pretty easy to just turn evertything off in the menus when it comes to advertising, live plus, suggested content, etc., and then just leaving the wireless up for patch/update notification as well as to actually performing them. Fumbling with a USB stick to do it manually is a choice though I guess.Games and movies look great on the C2 42" that arrived Friday. Better than my Neo Qled 43" Samsung tv. Not going to hook up the C2 to the net, will just use the pc for that. I'll use a usb thumb drive to update the C2 when the time comes. Don't know yet if that's a reliable way to patch/update it.
Sounds like the thing where you need to choose PC or TV resolutions in the Nvidia control panel where you set the resolution.Well I got the nice high bandwidth HDMI cable in, and I still can't get either Nvidia control panel or Win 10 display settings to show anything more than 60 hz with my GTX 2080, even if I turn off HDR color and move to 8-bit RGB. I was able to go to 120 hz just fine with these settings with my 48 inch LG CX. So I'm left scratching my head and saying WTF....Unfortunately most of the forums speaking to the refresh rate issue are addressing the older TVs. Some of them say one needs to turn on "HDMI deep color" in the settings, but this does not exist as an option on the C2 picture settings (even in advanced).
I've tried setting the input in the TV settings from "HDMI" to "PC" and this didn't do anything to the available settings either. I'm not sure if there's any other 2000 series owners on here that would have ideas?
This is exactly it. Encountered this when I setup my 48” C1 yesterday. Must go to the “PC” resolution settings below the TV ones.Sounds like the thing where you need to choose PC or TV resolutions in the Nvidia control panel where you set the resolution.
I'm not at my PC otherwise I would screenshot it for you.
May sound like silly question, but did you make sure the HDMI port you are using is the one marked 120hz? Worth a goWell I got the nice high bandwidth HDMI cable in, and I still can't get either Nvidia control panel or Win 10 display settings to show anything more than 60 hz with my GTX 2080, even if I turn off HDR color and move to 8-bit RGB. I was able to go to 120 hz just fine with these settings with my 48 inch LG CX. So I'm left scratching my head and saying WTF....Unfortunately most of the forums speaking to the refresh rate issue are addressing the older TVs. Some of them say one needs to turn on "HDMI deep color" in the settings, but this does not exist as an option on the C2 picture settings (even in advanced).
I've tried setting the input in the TV settings from "HDMI" to "PC" and this didn't do anything to the available settings either. I'm not sure if there's any other 2000 series owners on here that would have ideas?
I'm using Vivid preset which I think sets the brightness pretty high. I know some can't stand that preset but I like bright vivid colors. I'm coming from over 20 years of Samsung tvs and monitors which have the bright saturated colors I tend to like. I get the feeling LG includes Vivid to keep former or current Samsung users. Don't know if that's a silly statement considering that Vivid could simply be part of personal viewing preferences of users in general.Also, what OLED brightness setting is everyone using? (Not the standard brightness menu)
I turned on all of the pixel shifting and logo safety features. I also have the screen to shut off after 20 mins of inactivity. In addition, I have windows set to start a black screen saver after 5 mins and sleep all screens after 10. Only thing to note is that I must power on the tv every time as it won’t auto wake like a monitor would.Should I use the screen move option on my C2 42" that moves the image slightly pixel by pixel or just use Windows 10 screensaver? I notice with the screen move option the Win screensaver doesn't go on. And what about the argument that the screen move won't work on large bright logos because the pixel move rotation area stays within the logo?
It depends on if said videocard supports DSC on DP 1.4 and if said monitor does so on its DP port as well.what if your video card is HDMI 2.0 / Display Poart 1.4a, would it work w/ the monitor that requires HDMI 2.1 ? (I temporarly forget the different btwn display poprt 1.4 vs. 1.4a
Yeah. I have a feeling I’ll be buying an actual monitor in a couple of years. But the quality of OLED is too good to pass up for me right now. I e had my dell u3011 1600p monitor for 10yrs now lolyou know, worst case, I can always buy a new video card. But these problem w/ OLED such as Burn in, is a more serious problem. I feel like some of us is jumping on to the bandwagon just like 5 yr. ago, 4K LED comes out, and the only one who makes it at the time is Philips, and so many of us jumps in, and look what happens. It only last 4 yr.
Ditto - now that I have the 42" C2 and see first hand what it is capable of when used as a monitor, no regrets here at all - would buy it again in a heartbeat. I'm not on it all day - and with a few tweaks like enabling the screen saver in windows again and having the task bar auto-hide when not moused over, I have pretty much zero concerns about any burn-in issues. It's been demonstrated over and over again that unless you are leaving high contrast static images in one spot for multiple hours a day, each and every day, that burn in simply isn't something you need to worry about.Yeah. I have a feeling I’ll be buying an actual monitor in a couple of years. But the quality of OLED is too good to pass up for me right now. I e had my dell u3011 1600p monitor for 10yrs now lol