Anyway, it's funny to see how high pixel clock can climb but it's not really necessary to find the limit: none of our CRTs can use more than 400 Mhz.
Yes they can. Use Toasty X's pixel clock patcher and you can go over 500mHz on a normal graphics card with analog out. Displays just fine on my CRT's as long as the horizontal scan rate is within range.
Yes but the practical use is very limited.
Yes but the practical use is very limited.
Using resolutions with such pixel clocks while staying in the horizontal scan rate limits implies to use vertical refresh rates way lower than 80hz, and that means flickering.
Why do you want interlace resolutions that high anyway?
About the Sunix DPU3000,that micro usb cable is needed or it works even without it?
I'm more interested in the high refresh rates than the resolution per-se. Like say you want to run Ultra settings on a game at 2304x1728, but you can only really maintain 40fps consistently with your GPU. 40hz progressive is to flickery, so instead you make an 80hz interlaced (windows would say 40hz) and cap your frame rate to 40fps or use something like Nvidia's Double vsync to hold at 40. Even better, if your DAC and monitor can handle it, you could go 120hz, which is the next multiple of 40. This would cut down on flickering even more, and reduce input lag by another 6 or so milliseconds.
This isn't a common thing I do, but I currently use it to play Battlefield 1 at 45fps. I really didn't want to give up Ultra settings and a decent resolution, so I play at 1680x1260 interlaced at 135hz, with frame rate capped in-game at 45.
theoretically, what would be the highest possible resolution the FW900 can manage with the help of a pixelclock beyond 600 like in the DPU3000? 1440p should be fine. how about 1620p (or maybe even higher)?
I never thought this is a way to use interlace. I mean when I did 30 Hz interlace, it was too much flicker for me. I'll read up on this method.
so did we find something better then the delock adapter?
Image quality looks fine, I'll be using it for a while to test. I need to get a mini DP to DP cable first to use my new GPU as it came with only a mini DP to mini DP cable, which my old GPU supports.
Be careful when you will buy the mini DP to DP cable,the standard VESA says that those cables must not have the power pin connected.It isn't a big problem because the market is full of not standard cables,but be sure to buy one with all the 20 pins connected and the shortest possible.
If you can't find the right cable maybe you can use the additional power of the DPU3000,but you will need the USB Type-A to Micro USB Cable.
Heh, so apparently the PVM monitor can edit/adjust a ton of stuff in the service menu (landing, white balance, fine white balance - whatever that means, among other things). I think I'm hooked. I'll probably end up getting a 14 inch version, as I actually like the smaller screen format.
And it saves separate geometry settings for the underscan and overscan buttons. On my PVM's I have underscan set for 16:9 material like Zelda Skyward Sword. Overscan is set to blow up windowboxed games like Starfox.
Sorry,i should have told you before,cheapest usually are non standard.
You have to look in the negative comments of cables on Amazon or other stores,search for things like monitor standby problems,20 pin or power pin problems,ecc.
You can ask Sunix if they sell that 10 cm cable separately or try with the USB cable if it costs less.
Another problem can be the length of the cable,with the 20 pins cable the adapter will work for sure,but the greater length can degrade the Displayport signal.
Or you can use a resizing adapter certified for 4k like this:
these adapters have all the pins connected,but you have an additional connection that can degrade the signal more than the length.
It can works without problems even with a degraded signal,it all depends by the sensibility of the chipset.
Guys, I unexpectedly received my Sunix adapter today.
I confirm it displays 2304x1440@80hz. No obvious quality issue like trails behind characters. Image may be a little blurrier than when using a native VGA input, but I did the test on a spare FW900 with convergence and colors off so it is hard to say with certainty.
More in-depth quality checks and input lag tests later this week when I have time for it.
Also, regarding the micro-USB power supply, it is necessary for proper operation even though the adapter seems to work without. The manual clearly says it is needed if the blue light is dim, and indeed it's noticeably brighter with the extra power. That cable was included in the bundle as long as a displayport -> mini-displayport cable.
I tested that behind an AMD HD5850 and a R9 380X.That's interesting. I have 2 Sunix adapters hooked up right now. One with USB and without, and both look the same in terms of brightness of the blue light. I don't see a picture difference in either also. I'm still testing to see if the random blank out every few days goes away. Both of mine didn't come with a micro USB cable. What GPU do you have?
I tested that behind an AMD HD5850 and a R9 380X.
Maybe try to plug/unplug the USB cable and see if the brightness of the light varies ? It's how I noticed it.
Also both cards are from Sapphire. Given their reputation it wouldn't be too surprising if they had forgotten to connect a "facultative" power track on the displayport connector to save half a cent.
Should I tell my contact at Sunix to stock more?