The fact that these speakers get good reviews and other people aren’t reporting those problems makes me think that this is a “you” issue, lol.Well it's official. These speakers absolutely suck... Story below...
I purchased these when they came out for $150 many years ago and I still use them today in my living room. Those at a $150 are amazing.
I purchased a set on sale from Walmart for $99 two months ago and returned them thinking they were defective. Even though I used the 3.5 MM jack to my PC they were never recognized so I connected them to Bluetooth instead and they work fine with one exception. Connect these to Bluetooth and then pause that Bluetooth feed. Every 30 seconds or so it will give you several beeps to let you know that you have paused the Bluetooth, and it never stops. I KNOW that I paused the feed, I don't need a bleeping reminder every 30 seconds.
Thinking that I purchased a defective set I bought this same set at $49 and it is doing the same thing. There is a direct 3.5 MM connection to your PC but it will never be recognized. Connect to Bluetooth and the speakers work but pause that feed for 30 seconds and your Bluetooth will remind you that it is paused every 30 seconds.
These suck, I still may keep them for $49 buy yeah, they suck.
I'm saying these things have a 3.5mm connection. I remove my working headphones from my PC for that jack. I put the Klipsch wire in and nothing, no sound. The Klipsch speakers continue blinking blue looking for a bluetooth connection.Yeah wtf do they mean by the speakers are not recognized? It’s an analog connection…
RTFM!Well never mind. I did not know that the Main Volume button is a push able button on these speakers. I pushed the main volume for 3 seconds. It started blinking really quickly. Unplugged them from the wall and PC. Plugged them back in and now they work with the connection to the PC and no more blinking light.
Whaaaaat? I just whent on ebay and bought a new speaker to install into it. A couple of screws and two plugsThe BT is unsecured, which means other people can access it and play through your speakers, at least in theory. I have no worries about this, given my neighbors, and I couldn't resist at this price. I currently have a Promedia 2.1 with a blown woofer (lasted a long, long time, though) and I've been procrastinating on getting a new woofer. But this is just a couple bucks more than what Klipsch would charge me for the woofer! Fabulous deal.
Yes, things have improved with newer versions of Bluetooth and better codecs like aptX HD, though I'm not sure which codec(s) the ProMedia 2.1's support. I found a page on Klipsch's site that lists which codecs their various models of BT headphones support, but nothing on the ProMedias so far.The neighbors haven't BT'd into them yet and I didn't bother to test out that functionality as my experience with BT in the past has been that it sacrifices too much audio quality due to the limited bandwidth, though maybe this has improved with newer generations of BT?
Are we looking for what Bluetooth version?Yes, things have improved with newer versions of Bluetooth and better codecs like aptX HD, though I'm not sure which codec(s) the ProMedia 2.1's support. I found a page on Klipsch's site that lists which codecs their various models of BT headphones support, but nothing on the ProMedias so far.
Some people will always prefer hardwired, though. It's generally been a trade-off of convenience vs. sound quality, although things have improved over the years.
Oof, well there it is. I figured these weren’t going to be using Bluetooth 5.2, but 2.0 is pretty old so YMMV on sound quality. Just have to listen to it and determine if it’s acceptable or if you’re giving up too much in terms of SQ. I suspect it’s not an issue for casual listeners, parties, etc. For home/PC use or critical ears I’d probably recommend hardwired as the preferred method unless it’s not an option.Are we looking for what Bluetooth version?
According to the specs it's 2.0 - wayy outdated.
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 Spectifications
- Total System Power: 100 watts continuous/200 watts peak @ <0.2% THD; 260 watts short-term peak power
- Satellites: 18 watts/channel continuous @ <0.2% THD, 1kHz; 26 watts/channel short-term power @ <5% THD, 1kHz
- Subwoofer: 65 watts continuous @ <0.2% THD, 50 Hz; 80 watts short-term power @ <5% THD, 50Hz
- Frequency Response: 35Hz ~ 22kHz
- Satellite Crossover Frequency: 3.5kHz
- Enclosure Material Satellites: ABS
- Subwoofer: MDF
- Enclosure Type Satellites: Sealed
- Subwoofer: Bass Reflex
- High Frequency Horn: 90° x 40° MicroTractrix?
- Inputs: 3.5mm miniplug
- Bluetooth: 2.0
- Typical Maximum Output: 110dB SPL (in-room)
- Outputs: 3.5mm miniplug;Headphone
- Dimensions Satellite: 8.5” (21.59cm) x 4.2” (10.67cm) x 5.67” (14.4cm)
- Subwoofer: 9.5” 24.13cm) x 9.8” (24.9cm) x 10.2” (25.9cm)
- Finish: Black
- Subwoofer: One, side-firing 6.5” (16.51cm) long-throw fiber composite cone
- Tweeter: 19mm PEI dome
- Voltage 110/120 VAC
- Weight Satellite: 2.1lbs (0.95kg)
To some extent most of the work nowadays is done in driver but with a BT device in particular the driver and BT “card” or usb dongle in your computer handle the channels, codec and source side of things, the speaker here handles the DAC and amplification.If you use, bluetooth, what acts as the sound card? Does a software soundcard get engaged somewhere?
I doubt anybody will notice any difference at all honestly. These are not exactly studio monitors to begin with.Oof, well there it is. I figured these weren’t going to be using Bluetooth 5.2, but 2.0 is pretty old so YMMV on sound quality. Just have to listen to it and determine if it’s acceptable or if you’re giving up too much in terms of SQ. I suspect it’s not an issue for casual listeners, parties, etc. For home/PC use or critical ears I’d probably recommend hardwired as the preferred method unless it’s not an option.