High flow filter for loop - does one exist?

cyclone3d

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I've already had to drain and clean the pump and block twice. Thought I got all the stuff out after the first cleaning but more freed up and is clogging the block again.

This is on a new setup so it is just stuff coming out of the radiator.

Looking to get a high flow in-line filter that has 0 aluminum in it. Preferably a mesh type filer.

Yes, I know I will have to clean the filter, but it will be a lot easier to clean a filter than taking the block apart to clean it.
 

hititnquitit

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Barrow had one that I saw on aliexpress but I have no idea what the model number was. It looked well built but its been over a year. If I can dig it up I'll post it up.
 

hititnquitit

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This one?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001665136546.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allProduct.8148356.1.5ae5630ca0k9Sq&pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!US $12.90!US $11.87!!!!!@210318b916534703727298923ef8fa!!sh

Comes with a stainless steel mesh filter. That's their aliexpress store, but using the model number there you might be able to find it elsewhere.
Yep, that's the one. I think modmymods has them or performance-pcs but with brass filters if memory serves.

https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-in-line-brass-and-quart-glass-filter-black-gla-tlb53.html

There's an alphacool too.
https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-acryl-acetal-inline-filter-g1-4-inner-thread-29142.html
 

cyclone3d

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The Barrow one is going to restrict the flow to almost nothing with those flat fine screens and the Alphacool one looks like it will probably be just as restrictive but not catch as fine of particles.

I wonder if there is a 2 or 3-way splitter that I could hook up multiple filters in order to reduce the flow restriction of the filters that are available.

The only ones I have found so far that look like high flow rate are ones meant for garden hoses and pressure washers, etc.

The only problem is that they are too large and I would also have to convert the connections.
 

cyclone3d

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hititnquitit

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That's the reason I ended up omitting filters. At some point flow is going to get choked off. So an easy on/off system is needed along with something that's small enough to fit in a case.
When I looked at the barrow filter my plan was to add a quality qdc at each end to make pulling it as easy as possible for cleaning but after putting qdcs on it the thing would be pretty freaking big. I decided it was just easier to make sure I got everything as clean as possible rather than adding the filter lol.
 

cyclone3d

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I'm just tired of taking the block apart. It is a mono-block that cools the VRMs as well so it is not quite as simple as just taking the block off the CPU.

Plus I am going to be using liquid metal for the TIM.

The radiator is already mounted on the top of the case and the case does have available hose holes in the back.

I would just have to mount the big filter on the outside of the case which I guess wouldn't be a huge problem.
 

Nobu

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Would an inline fuel filter work? Obviously wouldn't look great, but would it function correctly?
 

cyclone3d

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Would an inline fuel filter work? Obviously wouldn't look great, but would it function correctly?
I thought about that, but all of the larger ones I could find are made of aluminum.

The plastic see-through ones would hinder flow too much and are also not really cleanable.
 

djstarfox

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Just thinking out of the box here.... Is there a very big reservior available that includes a filter or where one could be installed? I would think a very large filter on top of the resv would be the ideal location. Of course, you'll need a lot more fluid to add.
Kinda something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNYS9YH
 

Riddlinkidstoner

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What sort of coolant are you using that requires cleaning? It's been about a year on mine and I've drained it twice with no visible indications of requiring cleaning. Using Mayhem X1 clear.
 

hititnquitit

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What sort of coolant are you using that requires cleaning? It's been about a year on mine and I've drained it twice with no visible indications of requiring cleaning. Using Mayhem X1 clear.
The fluid isn't the problem, its coming from the rad. Solder flux, dirt and bits of metal are common contaminants in new rads (first post). Some brands are more susceptible than others. Alphacool developed a bad rep for not cleaning their rads very well but I think they have turned that around in the last five or so years.
 

Riddlinkidstoner

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The fluid isn't the problem, its coming from the rad. Solder flux, dirt and bits of metal are common contaminants in new rads (first post). Some brands are more susceptible than others. Alphacool developed a bad rep for not cleaning their rads very well but I think they have turned that around in the last five or so years.

Ah gotcha. Yeah I saw multiple recommendations for cleaning out a new radiator but it was pretty clean when I ran it through. I have a Heatkiller radiator.

Presumably though once fully cleaned, you shouldn't ever need a filter right? Or is there further risk of contamination over time I wonder?
 
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vegeta535

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The fluid isn't the problem, its coming from the rad. Solder flux, dirt and bits of metal are common contaminants in new rads (first post). Some brands are more susceptible than others. Alphacool developed a bad rep for not cleaning their rads very well but I think they have turned that around in the last five or so years.
You don't need a filter for that. Just flush them out before use. I never had a issue.
 
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travm

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The only problem is that they are too large
Cheap, good, small.

Pick two.

Unfortunately a high flow filter for something like this will be large.
Damn physics.

Although I agree with the above, if the system is clean, properly closed loop, and the water pure with no dissolved minerals, there is no need for a filter
 

hititnquitit

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Ah gotcha. Yeah I saw multiple recommendations for cleaning out a new radiator but it was pretty clean when I ran it through. I have a Heatkiller radiator.

Presumably though once fully cleaned, you shouldn't ever need a filter right? Or is there further risk of contamination over time I wonder?
Once you've flushed and cleaned everything you shouldn't need one. Altho there are always strange outliers. I found that petras and water wetter resulted in whites flakes that a filter would definitely have alerted me to sooner but the end result wouldn't have changed, a complete tear down and scrub.

You don't need a filter for that. Just flush them out before use. I never had a issue.
He did but there were bits left behind. I believe, he's looking for piece of mind at this point.
 

vegeta535

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Once you've flushed and cleaned everything you shouldn't need one. Altho there are always strange outliers. I found that petras and water wetter resulted in whites flakes that a filter would definitely have alerted me to sooner but the end result wouldn't have changed, a complete tear down and scrub.


He did but there were bits left behind. I believe, he's looking for piece of mind at this point.
He can also build out the loop and use something like primochill system reboot. Let it run through a loop with just the pump and radiators for 24 hours. Then do a flush.
 

cyclone3d

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Just thinking out of the box here.... Is there a very big reservior available that includes a filter or where one could be installed? I would think a very large filter on top of the resv would be the ideal location. Of course, you'll need a lot more fluid to add.
Kinda something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNYS9YH
The first filter I linked up above would essentially be a second reservoir with a good filter element. I would have to mount it on the outside of the case though. I would only need a couple ball valves so I could clean it out if need be as the housing unscrews so the filter can be removed and cleaned.

The third one I linked to may not restrict flow and I think I could have it fit inside the case but I would want to use quick disconnects which would result in reduced flow.

What really annoys me is that these sites that sell the water cooling gear don't list restriction or any performance info on stuff like filters, and the pictures and specifications are not listed well so it is very difficult to determine what will actually work like I want it to.
 

cyclone3d

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Once you've flushed and cleaned everything you shouldn't need one. Altho there are always strange outliers. I found that petras and water wetter resulted in whites flakes that a filter would definitely have alerted me to sooner but the end result wouldn't have changed, a complete tear down and scrub.


He did but there were bits left behind. I believe, he's looking for piece of mind at this point.
Yeah, I'd rather have a filter in the system to catch anything as I don't want to have to take the block apart to clean it.

I am using distiller water and Rislone Hy-Per Cool Super Coolant.
 

Nobu

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You could (have someone) print up a little spin-down filter to pull out the large particulate, although restriction on those is also non-zero.
 

cpufrost

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I made a flushing rig to fix this problem before it became a system problem. Used an Iwaki RD30 at 24VDC and ran the rads in a circuit which included a proper filter with 1 micron rating. Ran it for a full 48 hours. Quite amazing what comes out of radiators! Even the fancoil style MORA units.
 

cyclone3d

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I ended up ordering the large alphacool filter and needed fittings.

Bonus is that I can put the silver kill coil in with the filter.

I'll just have to make a mount for the filter to attach it to the back of the case.
 

Riddlinkidstoner

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So I just so happen to get my new 150mm glass for my Aquacomputer Utilitube to upgrade my 100mm. Looks like I had more stuff in my loop than I thought.

Thankfully the D5 Next has a built in filter that I can clean easily but I was surprised even after cleaning out my radiators.

1653605890713.png
 
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I do not wish to offend anyone but any recommendation of a flow filter in a PC custom loop is bad and should not be on these forums. Flush your rads with hot water, boiling if it makes you feel better. With new rads fill them with hot water and shake the shit out of them to remove any flux. After that, set up a pump and res loop for them and use whatever chemicals on the market make you feel better. The second step is not necessary IMO. If you have giant chunks that need a secondary filter after flushing a new rad a few times then that company owes you a new system and you have a very rare experience on your hands. Now if you decide to use an inline flow filter then you are asking for pump and loop failure and it is on you. What happens when that filter gets clogged? Little propellers to show you water movement and inline filters are pieces that should never be a part of your custom loop, they simply add problems.
 

cpufrost

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Little propellers to show you water movement and inline filters are pieces that should never be a part of your custom loop, they simply add problems.

The same could be said for dyes, most additives, clear tubing, transparent block tops, reservoirs, and lighting of said devices of ANY kind. Coolant should be kept away from ambient light or any light source in general and should only be ultra pure 18+ meg distilled/di water. Everything else just makes things go downhill from there. I know that sounds boring but for reliability and maximized uptime, that's the standard.
 

hititnquitit

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I do not wish to offend anyone but any recommendation of a flow filter in a PC custom loop is bad and should not be on these forums. Flush your rads with hot water, boiling if it makes you feel better. With new rads fill them with hot water and shake the shit out of them to remove any flux. After that, set up a pump and res loop for them and use whatever chemicals on the market make you feel better. The second step is not necessary IMO. If you have giant chunks that need a secondary filter after flushing a new rad a few times then that company owes you a new system and you have a very rare experience on your hands. Now if you decide to use an inline flow filter then you are asking for pump and loop failure and it is on you. What happens when that filter gets clogged? Little propellers to show you water movement and inline filters are pieces that should never be a part of your custom loop, they simply add problems.
To each their own. Custom wcing is the equivalent to creating a piece of art in my eyes. You do with it what you choose to because its yours and yours alone.
 
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The same could be said for dyes, most additives, clear tubing, transparent block tops, reservoirs, and lighting of said devices of ANY kind. Coolant should be kept away from ambient light or any light source in general and should only be ultra pure 18+ meg distilled/di water. Everything else just makes things go downhill from there. I know that sounds boring but for reliability and maximized uptime, that's the standard.
Touche, maybe I was a bit hyperbolic but I stand by inline filters as being way worse than any of those things. Propellers just annoy me.
 

travm

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Touche, maybe I was a bit hyperbolic but I stand by inline filters as being way worse than any of those things. Propellers just annoy me.
I always thought a small turbine to detect flow in ppm like a fan speed indicator, that would allow a motherboard to shut down if flow stopped would be cool... But I guess thermal protection evolved to make that redundant. Also water-cooling was always overkill for my needs so I never bothered.
 

cpufrost

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Spinning devices have merit in properly engineered solutions. The cheap ones seen in PC hobby aren't designed for long continuous use and will fail. If they are providing proof of flow and stop spinning, your system shuts down for no reason which is annoying. When fluid stops and temperatures rise we have protection for that. In the case of running dry, not so much and the ever popular Laing D5 based pumps are absolutely intolerant of even short runs with insufficient coolant (i.e. 100% flooded bearing) without permanent damage.

Inline filters are not needed for permanent installs. If you have one and see a build up of FOD (Foreign Object Debris) then you have another issue that needs to be fixed first! ;-)
Shakedown of all new parts, particularly radiators, should be done before deployment in an actual PC circuit. The factory SHOULD do this but with cost of concern many do not other than a simple pressure test. I've seen all kinds of nasties flushed from rads before, enough that would really be bad to have been caught in the tiny galleries of cooling parts. More downtime to clear them out, and bad temps. Do it nice, not twice, always. ;-)
 

DWolvin

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I'm going to side with the 'it's art, make it good looking'. I have a spinner (forget what brand) similar to this (below), and I put it in my loop for the temperature sensor as much as anything. It's still running fine something like 5 years later.

DS01021-03-3.jpg
 

cyclone3d

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I do not wish to offend anyone but any recommendation of a flow filter in a PC custom loop is bad and should not be on these forums. Flush your rads with hot water, boiling if it makes you feel better. With new rads fill them with hot water and shake the shit out of them to remove any flux. After that, set up a pump and res loop for them and use whatever chemicals on the market make you feel better. The second step is not necessary IMO. If you have giant chunks that need a secondary filter after flushing a new rad a few times then that company owes you a new system and you have a very rare experience on your hands. Now if you decide to use an inline flow filter then you are asking for pump and loop failure and it is on you. What happens when that filter gets clogged? Little propellers to show you water movement and inline filters are pieces that should never be a part of your custom loop, they simply add problems.
Well, the filter I am using is huge and will be very easy to tell if it ever start to clog as the enclosure is clear. I also ended up putting a silver kill-coil in the filter as that will be the easiest place to have it in order to replace it if I ever need to.

I agree about those smaller filters though. They are trash no matter how you look at it. A little bit of crap in the loop and they are going to clog right away. Plus there is no way that they aren't horribly restrictive.

That being said, after the last flush of the loop I did before installing the filter seems to have gotten the remainder of what I was having issues with in the first place.
 
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