New 5800x with NH-U12P SE1366 R possibly heat issues?

ellover009

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New build.
Processor was idling high 74-76C.
I reapplied paste (Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut), and did a better job at tucking some of the modular cables, now I'm idling 55-58C.
I decided to do some testing on Prime 95 8 core torture, blend.
It keeps a good constant 76C or so, and once the test starts pushing past 112W the processor creeps to 91C, I tried changing the fan curve on the CPU fan to try to help alleviate it by ramping it up earlier at 60C, then changed it to 50C.

I have a Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 R with the bracket adaptor for AM4.

Do these units have liquid in the chamber (vapor cooling) and do they lose efficiency over time?
Is this cooler able to dissipate enough heat by todays standards?
Case us silverstone FT02
Middle case fan is not on right now, dunno if there's enough clearance for it with the 6950xt in there.
 

Grebuloner

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If it's idling at 55C, you have a mounting problem. Double check that you're using all the right parts and all the screws are tight on both sides of the motherboard. The cooler does have a little bit of liquid in the pipes that makes it work, but it's unlikely that it's all gone from any let alone all of the heatpipes even at this age. I've got a couple U12s from way back including the model you have and they're still running great on new hardware with adapters.

Could be that a part of your mounting kit (or a wing on the cooler base) is bent out of shape. Does CoreTemp have all the cores at the same temperature or a mixture of high/low?
 

Zepher

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I have a negative voltage offset set in the BIOS, can't remember what it is but I think it was -0.1. When I did that, idle and load temps dropped considerably.
 

ellover009

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If it's idling at 55C, you have a mounting problem. Double check that you're using all the right parts and all the screws are tight on both sides of the motherboard. The cooler does have a little bit of liquid in the pipes that makes it work, but it's unlikely that it's all gone from any let alone all of the heatpipes even at this age. I've got a couple U12s from way back including the model you have and they're still running great on new hardware with adapters.

Could be that a part of your mounting kit (or a wing on the cooler base) is bent out of shape. Does CoreTemp have all the cores at the same temperature or a mixture of high/low?
I inspected the wings when I put it together, it looked fine.
The cores all have the same temp.
I'll look at the tightness tomorrow again and the wing bolts, is it possible to over-tighten the 2 main bolts with the spring on them?

What makes it a little harder to rationalize the numbers is my old processor was the 65w 1700, lol. This is an almost brand new build.
 

Grebuloner

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It's pretty hard to overtighten, just go until the screwdriver stops. Maybe something on the board (caps?) is interfering with the mounting kit being all the way down?

Do try the undervolting, but even then find it really tough to justify how 112W is running so hot when I've got a 150W i7 5960X running below 60C on an AVX load.

Were you using the cooler on your 1700?
 

applegrcoug

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I have a 5800x paired to a thermalright peerless assassin 120. It seems to be able to handle 170w with P95 small FFTs at which point temps make it to the 90s...so something is causing your unit to throttle early. I'm not sure what your cooler is good for, but a 212 I think can handle 150w, and I think the U12 is similar.

Have you run a cinebench benchmark to see where you stack up?

Maybe try with an open case to check case air flow.

Double check the mounting as others have said.

Trying a different cooler if you have access to one...hate to have to buy one just to troubleshoot.
 

doyll

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I love seeing these old coolers still being used. :D

I used NH-U12P SE1366 when I built my 920, but changed to Ultra 120 Extreme when it came out (6x vs 4x 6mm heatpipes). U12 was doing a good job, just couldn't OC' as much as I wanted. Ended up using PH-TC14PE with TY-143 fan at 4.3Ghz Oc. :D

I'm using Thermalbench Ultra 120 Extreme and Cogage Arrow (IFX-14, Cogage Arrow and original Silver Arrow all use same heatpipes with slightly different fins). Obviously I've changed mount a couple times .. and fan/s, but they still work as good as ever. I installed new Ultra 120EX Rev. 4 in place of original Ultra 120 Extreme and got same temps with same fan/s (Ultra 120EX Rev.4 comes with 2x TL-B12 Extrem fans). Even put Ultra 120 Extreme back on to verify same temps. :D
 
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ellover009

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Ok made some progress today. While messing around I was so fixated on the big image that I missed some of the little things.
I messed up.
The bottom fans were all dead.
The case fans from the FT02 are so quiet I had not noticed that they had given up the will to keep going.

I had a spare one from when the middle one shattered. I mounted it in the back. I don't think I need the front one, but I need to figure out a solution for the middle fan.

The 6950xt is a big card, and won't allow clearance for the stock fans.

Maybe there's a solution in which I could utilize a slimmer fan in space 2.
 
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doyll

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With such quiet systems it's not hard to have a fan (or 2) die and not know it. I've done similar a few times myself.

If you could fit 2x 180s in bottom and block the middle opening the other two will probably flow air up over motherboard and out top.

Problem with slimmer fans is they have even less ability to overcome airflow resistance so end up moving even less air .. or no air at all.
 

ellover009

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With such quiet systems it's not hard to have a fan (or 2) die and not know it. I've done similar a few times myself.

If you could fit 2x 180s in bottom and block the middle opening the other two will probably flow air up over motherboard and out top.

Problem with slimmer fans is they have even less ability to overcome airflow resistance so end up moving even less air .. or no air at all.
I think that 3rd fan is not as useful since its all the way front where the optical media, single mechanical HD is, and a hidden sata ssd is hidden. I don't think that area of the case "gets anywhere near hot"

Man if the fan was just a bit thinner, I messed rubbing the broken one in the space. almost feels like they should make the cards taller, not longer since SLI and Crossfire are a thing of the past.

I'm roaming the FT 02 thread to see if anyone has encountered this problem.
 

ellover009

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Here's what the rig looks like.
The last image shows the fan clearance at the back, and that's without the rail adaptors that has to be attached to the fan so that it lines up.



Once in IMGUR you can click to go to site, right click on image and open if you wanna see it bigger.
 

doyll

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Just in case you want to monitor air airflow temp, cheap indoor/outdoor digital thermometers with wired remote sensor from ebay, Amazon, etc make it easy and low cost. Others are terrarium remote sensor and fridge remote sensor. Links below are examples:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255575098610?hash=item3b817684f2:g:uY4AAOSw4JJiobsU
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124562319721?hash=item1d007e2969:g:qQUAAOSw~AxiMyUQ
Advantage of indoor / outdoor is unit monitors room temp while remote sensor fit inside case monitors air temp at sensor. I fit sensor a about 3-5cm in front and centered on cooler fan or in front of GPU fans.
 

doyll

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Could fan in front of GPU be slid back a little so it's more centered below CPU? Reason I say to block vent where there is no fan is so air fans move into case has to flow up and out top, not leak around and below to be drawn back into fan going in circles. ;)
 

ellover009

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Could fan in front of GPU be slid back a little so it's more centered below CPU? Reason I say to block vent where there is no fan is so air fans move into case has to flow up and out top, not leak around and below to be drawn back into fan going in circles. ;)
Technically not, there's an actual bracket and indentation for the fan, so doing that would force the fan to overlap with the rail that it lines up, also half the fan covers the video card so youd have to offset to only use less than 25% of it.

Hope this visual helps.


So the fan has a bracket that you screw under it, and each fan fits in an indentation in the case, like a little tray, and they slide in, and you can screw that bracket in. The fans themselves have no cover until you attach the special slide in bracket so that it goes on the case. Trying to put it in the middle would make it sit in the edge lip of where two fans would go, and id be a) raised higher, b) only cover 25-30% due to the card clearance.
 
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ellover009

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I'll check on it later on. Started looking for at least a OEM replacement, man there aren't as plentiful, and they cost more, but they were never cheap to begin with.

Is there anything else that really outperform these fans when it comes to noise and air delivery?
 

doyll

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Are stock fan the FT181? They are good fans but not easy to find.
 

ellover009

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yeah, I don't remember if the replacement I put in were the revised version, don't remember if they have the same code. Originals are supposed to be FT181, but I remember at some point they were revised, don't remember if they kept the same code name.
Revised might be AP181.
 

applegrcoug

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With a little ingenuity, this too could be your set up.

oRp9Bfa.jpg
 

ellover009

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ya'll sure that computer doesen't belong to the guy from low cost cosplay? j/k
https://twistedsifter.com/2020/12/lonelyman-low-cost-cosplay-2020-gallery/

Sorry if I haven't been too active, the 180x180x2mm fans are not common, not too much competition, it's a combination of pay a lot and get it from shady guy. Man that's one of the few things that is making the case less appealing, 180mm was magnificent back in the day, then everyone started going with some crazy sizes.

Quick question thou. Is going windows 11 worth it to try to get those frame improvements from AMD GPU DX11 new drivers?
I don't want to reinstall windows 10, but something broke and my windows icon does not function anymore. I tried most of the things here.
https://www.groovypost.com/howto/windows-10-start-menu-not-opening-7-things-to-try/
 
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