Armenius
Extremely [H]
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More specifically, an Ultra High Speed cable. There is no such thing as an "HDMI 2.1" cable.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
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mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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I messed around with this in Octopath Traveler last night because flicker was very apparent in the edges of the screen. I moved the slider in increments of 5 all the way from -30 to +30 and saw no change in flicker, just a modest change in overall gamma on the screen.
So..../shrug I'm probably just ignoring that setting and leaving it at 0.
MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
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Has the " Game mode doesn't work with Bluetooth headphones" been discussed here. I just found this out today and I've had my CX48 since launch! WTH
It looked like a bandaid to me from the start, glad it’s confirmed that it is so I can not bother playing with it. Seems like this is the biggest unaddressed issue and I barely even notice it. Pretty much only in some menus and loading screens so far.
MistaSparkul
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It was never really meant to fix the flickering issue as far as I'm aware. I would say the use case scenario of this feature is to adjust the near black gamma on consoles with VRR enabled since they will be running ~60fps most of the time and running 60Hz with a gamma curve meant for 120Hz is the cause of this issue.
I just got Vanatoo T1 Encore's yesterday with the intention of using them paired to the CX via bluetooth. Connect them and game mode picture mode vanished. I reset the TV, etc only to realize that the TV is incapable of low input lag + bluetooth.
Super lame.
Yeah, if they enabled this they would just get bombarded with complaints about audio lag. I’m sure it’s easier for their support to just disable this.
The problem seems to be not telling the end user about it though. Maybe it's somewhere deep within the manual but it's definitely not expected behavior.
Why you wouldn't just connect via BT to your PC or console I don't know. If your mobo does not have BT, a BT dongle is cheap.
Yeah it's a different chipset it seems (something from synaptics instead of realtek), I have 2 of the club3d adapters and yeah i know they work with older drivers, however they love to have random glitches that requires a power cycle, and do not work with my denon 40gbits receiver unless i limit that to 18gbs or stay under 720p
Have been using this adapter for 5 days now, and have yet to see an issue, changing resolutions, powering off screens, cloning displays, all perfect.
all things that would have given me issues with the club3d adapters, even once/if nvidia fixes that issue (they didn't even list it as a known issue in the most recent driver notes despite showing it on their forum)
I still wont go back to using one of the club3d adapters.
Sorry for the late reply, I do not at the moment, will try to test this tomorrow when I'm around one, though the notes on the product page say
"All Macbook, Macbook Pro, and Mac Mini with Apple M1 or Intel chips can only support a maximum resolution of 4K@60 Hz"
does switchresx help one avoid limitations like that?
Yes, it can. I’m mostly interested in a MacBook Pro Intel truthfully, but any data is good data!
SwitchResX might expose some resolutions Apple menus do not but I still don't think it will let you pick resolutions and refresh rates that the Macs just refuse to support.
I contacted CableMatters when I first read about the adapter asking specifically if theirs could support 4k 120 Hz on Intel MBPs and at the time they said yes. I guess they hadn't actually tested it at the time if they have reworded the website to say that they are limited to 60 Hz.
MacOS is just apparently shit and we need to wait for Mac Minis with HDMI 2.1 ports until they can do full refresh rate.
Still interested if you can test it out to make sure.
48” C1 now in stock on LG website for the predicted $1,500 USD price.
https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-oled48c1pub-oled-4k-tv
Might as well just buy right now if you’re on the fence about a 48”. Price didn’t come down a single dollar since last years model (unlike all other sizes, which went down hundreds of dollars) and didn’t go on sale for a single dollar during the Black Friday sales or the entire year (unlike all other sizes, which the sale prices were hundreds of dollars cheaper) except maybe a random piddly $50 discount here or there.
https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-oled48c1pub-oled-4k-tv
Might as well just buy right now if you’re on the fence about a 48”. Price didn’t come down a single dollar since last years model (unlike all other sizes, which went down hundreds of dollars) and didn’t go on sale for a single dollar during the Black Friday sales or the entire year (unlike all other sizes, which the sale prices were hundreds of dollars cheaper) except maybe a random piddly $50 discount here or there.
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HiCZoK
Gawd
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I know it's an old tired question but my lg 48C1 is coming today.
I always used IPS up to this point, so please help me find what windows and chrome settings to use to avoid burnin. Also TV settings tips would be appreciated.
I know to autohide taskbar and to use black background or randomized wallpapers if I want.
I always used IPS up to this point, so please help me find what windows and chrome settings to use to avoid burnin. Also TV settings tips would be appreciated.
I know to autohide taskbar and to use black background or randomized wallpapers if I want.
Make sure to turn the screen off when you aren’t using it. Also, keep all the burn-in reduction features turned on. Screen savers can help. Beyond that, I’m personally not going too crazy with worrying about burn-in for my CX.
elvn
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...Taskbar hider set to a hotkey to lock the taskbar away (show/hide toggle). Translucent taskbar app to make it and it's edge see-through.
...Dark themes in windows and browsers/browser add-ons ("color changer", "turn off the lights") to make the backgrounds dark on a per site basis..
...True black (empty of art) desktop wallpaper.
...Low (relatively low to SDR levels) HDR brightness on desktop using the HDR color control menu slider.
...Keep all the burn-in reduction tech on (like Derangel said), including ABL, ASBL, logo dimming, etc.
...Activate the remote's voice functions so that you can hold down the mic button and tell it to "turn off the screen" (which leaves everything running and just turns off the emitters after a 5 second countdown). I do that any time I walk away from my pc (afk) even if just for a minute because I can get sidetracked and/or forget that I left a game running in a static/paused state on the tv.
...Don't rely on pc/android etc system screensavers because systems/apps/video device itself can crash/freeze rarely. Crashed app notifaction windows can take top layer above a screen saver. Stuck on bios screen (or even just the log on screen) on a spontaneous reboot can happen too. You might want to change your logon screen too for this reason. A lot of 3rd party apps let you customize the logon screen.
...I think the best thing you can do besides that (other than buying at bestbuy and adding the bestbuy warranty that reportedly covers burn-in for ~ $66/yr over 5 yrs) is to use a 2nd monitor for static desktop/apps and keep the OLED usage scenario as a gaming/video/multimedia "stage".
Screen dimming will turn on by default if you leave a static screen on for too long though and it's pretty dim so that would will definitely help already aside from doing all of the above. That doesn't happen the same when people turn off dimming when trying to use the OLED as a static app/desktop monitor. If you keep a set of settings just for desktop that is well below the ABL level then you will avoid ABL but you won't avoid ASBL unless you go into the service menu and disable it.
---------------------------------------------------------------
I'm pretty sure this info from Rtings.com 's C9 OLED review would still work:
Otherwise just keeping HDR on all of the time on the desktop and turning the HDR Color slider down low enough should do similar and wouldn't affect the color brightness scaling for HDR content/metadata - so that is what most people do I think. I keep the HDR slider down to where SDR images still pop, so more like a SDR image level of color brightness/nits but some people set this brightness slider very low because they use a lot of static text based stuff on their screen since it is usually their only screen in that case.
...Dark themes in windows and browsers/browser add-ons ("color changer", "turn off the lights") to make the backgrounds dark on a per site basis..
...True black (empty of art) desktop wallpaper.
...Low (relatively low to SDR levels) HDR brightness on desktop using the HDR color control menu slider.
...Keep all the burn-in reduction tech on (like Derangel said), including ABL, ASBL, logo dimming, etc.
...Activate the remote's voice functions so that you can hold down the mic button and tell it to "turn off the screen" (which leaves everything running and just turns off the emitters after a 5 second countdown). I do that any time I walk away from my pc (afk) even if just for a minute because I can get sidetracked and/or forget that I left a game running in a static/paused state on the tv.
...Don't rely on pc/android etc system screensavers because systems/apps/video device itself can crash/freeze rarely. Crashed app notifaction windows can take top layer above a screen saver. Stuck on bios screen (or even just the log on screen) on a spontaneous reboot can happen too. You might want to change your logon screen too for this reason. A lot of 3rd party apps let you customize the logon screen.
...I think the best thing you can do besides that (other than buying at bestbuy and adding the bestbuy warranty that reportedly covers burn-in for ~ $66/yr over 5 yrs) is to use a 2nd monitor for static desktop/apps and keep the OLED usage scenario as a gaming/video/multimedia "stage".
Screen dimming will turn on by default if you leave a static screen on for too long though and it's pretty dim so that would will definitely help already aside from doing all of the above. That doesn't happen the same when people turn off dimming when trying to use the OLED as a static app/desktop monitor. If you keep a set of settings just for desktop that is well below the ABL level then you will avoid ABL but you won't avoid ASBL unless you go into the service menu and disable it.
---------------------------------------------------------------
I'm pretty sure this info from Rtings.com 's C9 OLED review would still work:
Otherwise just keeping HDR on all of the time on the desktop and turning the HDR Color slider down low enough should do similar and wouldn't affect the color brightness scaling for HDR content/metadata - so that is what most people do I think. I keep the HDR slider down to where SDR images still pop, so more like a SDR image level of color brightness/nits but some people set this brightness slider very low because they use a lot of static text based stuff on their screen since it is usually their only screen in that case.
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Monstieur
Limp Gawd
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Burn-in is a non-issue. I used a B7 on the desktop with HDR always enabled at ~140 nits for years and didn't take a single protective measure. I left it on with static browser icons and taskbar for thousands of hours without any visible burn-in.
MistaSparkul
2[H]4U
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Could even just buy a CX if you happen to find one for an ok discount. The CX and C1 are basically the same TV selling for the same price. The C1 doesn't even have hardware level fixes for VRR issues.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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After seeing the C1 non-changes and the G1 price/slight changes, I got a 77" CX for the living room for $2799 including tax/shipping off Greentoe. 48" CX's might be had there at a discount as well.
The C1 is also on sale for $1275 if you work for a large company that does business w/ LG. Check out the LG partners mall.
HiCZoK
Gawd
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Thanks.
The tv is here and I've been using to a few hours. The picture and motion quality is downright stunning. Fantastic thing. Even sound is good.
I don't know if I will get used to it. I play leaned back. It's fine with controller as I can move back a bit more but with mouse and keyboar.. idk.
I know I sit further from the screen than I did to my 27" but is still seems more straining.
Also -I have 1 dead pixel.
I had the same experience. Absolutely amazing monitor that blows everything else out of the water, and works great for controller gaming. But I could just never get mouse and keyboard to work. What I ended up doing was buying a TV stand that fit right behind the desk - this one - and that gave me the little extra room I needed to make it work with mouse + keyboard.
Unfortunately, it made my standing desk useless, and I am one that actually switches between modes a lot. So I ultimately sold it
.
Unfortunately, it made my standing desk useless, and I am one that actually switches between modes a lot. So I ultimately sold it
.
Armenius
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May as well get the C1, then. The 48" is probably selling too well for them to reduce the price of the CX. I'll still be watching for sales as the C1 proliferates at retailers.
MistaSparkul
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If they are the same price sure but IF you can save 200 or so I'd take the CX.
While I don't have a C1, I have a 48" 4K on my desktop and yours is closer than mine is by a good bit by the looks of it - that is a big factor in making it something I can live with it long term (for me). I know some others have adjusted to a closer depth and yet others have moved the monitor to a floor or wall stand and moved the desk out a smidge when the desk is not deep enough and you don't feel like changing the entire desk.
Yeah looks really close to me. You need a deeper desk I think. At minimum, get an after market stand, you should be able to push it towards the end of your desk that way. I have an 80cm deep desk, with an aftermarket stand so it's about 70cm from me and I find this works well for mouse+kb. But still took some adjustment to get used to.
The LG's are really weird with dead pixels. From my experience, it's not like normal LCD's. I've had multiple 55" LG OLED's, and the dead pixels just come and go at random. I usually find 1-2 dead pixels on my screen, then a few months later I look for them and they're no longer there, but there's 1-2 dead pixels somewhere else, and it just repeats somewhere else. From my experience with LCD's, when you get dead/stuck pixels, they're usually permanent (even with stupid pixel refreshing fixes), and if they're not already on your screen the first time you use it then you should be good to go in the long term. I'm usually very OCD about dead/stuck pixels, it's a 100% return on my part usually, but the screen is so large, and I sit so far back, and they usually go away anyway, that it truly doesn't bother me. Just my personal experience though.
Your setup to me looks like it has a good amount of empty vertical space, so obviously the solution is to rotate the entire screen 90 degrees in a portrait orientation and use it as a 2160px wide display with a horizontal screen size similar to a 27" monitor.
...I mean, it could work, but in the last 6 months or so when I came up with that idea, I've realized that most people seem to much prefer the "immersion" provided by the larger screen to the point of people even using it in conjunction with a custom ultrawide resolution like 3840x1600, but of course running it in portrait eliminates that immersion.
Perhaps it's just my insane suceptibility to motion sickness that makes any such "immersive" view-port typically a complete non-starter for me and so my train of thought never even goes there.
But yeah, outside of my crazy "run it in portrait!" idea, there is the option of running a custom ultawide resolution in order to make it have a smaller vertical size in-game. 3840x1600 should have similar vertical height to a 35" 16:9 monitor while 3840x1080 would have similar vertical height to a 24" 16:9 monitor. Perhaps a balance between the two would be ideal, such as 3840x1280 and 3840x1440 which should be a similar height to 28" and 32" 16:9 monitors respectively.
Monstieur
Limp Gawd
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HDR does not work at all on macOS when using the adapter, and it defaults to YCbCr with no way to change to RGB without an EDID override.
elvn
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You could try a stand like others have said and see if kitty-cornering the desk starting at that doorway would fit. Otherwise maybe move that cabinet out and set the desk away from the short wall to doorway where the TV would have it's back against the short wall. Personally I keep my monitors on one desk and bought a 2nd island desk on caster wheels for my peripherals since I have a small room just for the pc.
chameleoneel
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Panasonic announced 3 product lines of OLED and each one will have a 48 inch
waiting for those 42" 's...
Unfortunently I’m starting to think not till 2022.
MistaSparkul
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42" maybe next year and that will be the best stopgap until a 32" from JOLED starts hitting gaming displays. Some good news on that front: https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/blog/j...shipment-of-22-27-and-32-monitor-oled-panels/
HDTVtest posted their G1 review:
Also, I can't be the only one that finds it annoying that he uses 24fps telecine'd to 60fps for the "talking head" portions of his review videos. I inquired about that in the past, and he basically replied that the presence of telecine shouldn't cause issues if it's just for the talking head portions (I personally disagree, but now is not the time for that discussion), and he had no interest in recording those talking head parts at a higher framerate like 30fps or even 60fps to avoid telecine judder (and also showed no interest in recording them at 25fps and the rest of the video at 50fps as an alternative solution to avoiding telecine judder).
I mean, if money is no object and you're willing to experiment, there's nothing stopping anybody from trying to run a custom resolution that has a refresh rate greater than 60Hz on one of the already-announced 27" 4k OLED monitors like the one LG announced at CES.
Also, I can't be the only one that finds it annoying that he uses 24fps telecine'd to 60fps for the "talking head" portions of his review videos. I inquired about that in the past, and he basically replied that the presence of telecine shouldn't cause issues if it's just for the talking head portions (I personally disagree, but now is not the time for that discussion), and he had no interest in recording those talking head parts at a higher framerate like 30fps or even 60fps to avoid telecine judder (and also showed no interest in recording them at 25fps and the rest of the video at 50fps as an alternative solution to avoiding telecine judder).
I mean, if money is no object and you're willing to experiment, there's nothing stopping anybody from trying to run a custom resolution that has a refresh rate greater than 60Hz on one of the already-announced 27" 4k OLED monitors like the one LG announced at CES.
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MistaSparkul
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chameleoneel
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Yeah they will probably drip feed the features. try to get people to double dip. Hell, most of the 2021 OLED are shipping without working VRR and claiming to add it later in a firmware update.
HiCZoK
Gawd
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Ok I got used to the 48" c1. I am keeping it. That 1 dead pixel is ok. I notice it only when I look for it up close on white background.
I got Free 150usd headphones with the tv (lg fn7) so I can let it go
Anyway, I only peeled the protection film from front and back today. Hope it did not caused any damage. I used the tv about 8 hours before I decided to keep it.
btw - there is no more warm 1 and 2 like in reviews. now there is a slider which goes from 50 cold to -50 warm.... so I keep it at -20 so far.
DO I need to change SDR contrast? It defaults to 85 in pc game mode. Oled light I set to 25% for sdr for now
btw I don't post too often but I've been here all these years. Back in 2007 when samsung 226bw was all the rage. Look where we are now! It is special to always share new display info here
I got Free 150usd headphones with the tv (lg fn7) so I can let it go
Anyway, I only peeled the protection film from front and back today. Hope it did not caused any damage. I used the tv about 8 hours before I decided to keep it.
btw - there is no more warm 1 and 2 like in reviews. now there is a slider which goes from 50 cold to -50 warm.... so I keep it at -20 so far.
DO I need to change SDR contrast? It defaults to 85 in pc game mode. Oled light I set to 25% for sdr for now
btw I don't post too often but I've been here all these years. Back in 2007 when samsung 226bw was all the rage. Look where we are now! It is special to always share new display info here
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Ok I got used to the 48" c1. I am keeping it. That 1 dead pixel is ok. I notice it only when I look for it up close on white background.
I got Free 150usd headphones with the tv (lg fn7) so I can let it go
Anyway, I only peeled the protection film from front and back today. Hope it did not caused any damage. I used the tv about 8 hours before I decided to keep it.
btw - there is no more warm 1 and 2 like in reviews. now there is a slider which goes from 50 cold to -50 warm.... so I keep it at -20 so far.
DO I need to change SDR contrast? It defaults to 85 in pc game mode. Oled light I set to 25% for sdr for now
btw I don't post too often but I've been here all these years. Back in 2007 when samsung 226bw was all the rage. Look where we are now! It is special to always share new display info here
LG's OLED TVs are something special. They seamlessly blend entertainment and performance together in a way in which neither is compromised. Every other TV or Monitor I know of has compromises, while the LG CX has almost none (except for it's giant). Hell, the price is even good considering the performance you get out of it. We're at a turning point in display tech where monitors and TVs merge. I, for one, welcome it.